brickeyee Firstly the WORST thing you can do for your air quality is to tighten up your home more than the new ones already are. With all the chemicals in the paint, flooring fabrics and everything we clean with in the air, you need to turn it over frequently to maintain a healthy living environment. From what I can see of the simple principles this unit is built around, it does precisly that. As for the loss of the air which has been "cooled" in the summer, your air conditioner needs to constantly cool the air to maintian the temperature you want to keep it at. the longer the air is kept in the house the more humidity it collects, even just from your breath. It is much harder for your air conditioner to cool the highly humid air in the home than it is to bring in new less humid air to cool it, thus the reduction in cost. The only problem is that on very humid days you may need to run a de-humidifier to reduse the humidity because the air outside may be just as humid as the air inside (as the manual states). My main problem is condensation during the winter months, so I may not use it as much during the summer so I dont see an issue. It's much cheaper than a HVAC unit and much easier to install, so I'm seriously thinking this could be the way to go for me.

Shayle 40 glass break sensors? Wow - that is a lot. Are they planning to mount the senors directly to the glass - or are they using a ceiling/wall mount sensor that can cover several windows in one area? I have about 12 glass break sensors in my home - and it's a good size house (5000+ sq ft). For example - one glass break sensor in the dining room ceiling covers 3 large windows. If you use the Honeywell 1625 Glass break sensor - which comes in several different styles - you can reduce the number of glass break sensors. The 1625 has a range of 25 feet. You might check out this site: http://www.aesecurity.com which is where I purchased all of my alarm parts. The site is useful since they provide data sheets on all of the sensors and you can read about their capabilities (and see what they cost). Be very very careful when dealing with alarm companies - they make their money by charging you per sensor or per zone - so the more sensors or zones they can cram in - the more they make. As far as zones - you can have multiple sensors tied to a single zone. For example - I have 3 doors on the front of the house where one can enter - the front door, the door through the garage, and then a side patio door. All 3 of these doors have a magnetic sensor - but they are tied to 1 zone. This is commonly called "sensors in series" or "in-series" connections. Obviously- the more sensors you can group in series, the fewer zones you need on the controller and that can allow a smaller alarm panel or fewer zone expander modules. Another thing to watch out for is the fire monitoring. In my first house, the alarm company refused to tie the alarm system into the house smoke detectors. Instead, they charged me a few hundred dollars for an additional smoke detector that was only tied into the alarm system - and not connected to the house smoke detectors. It was a bunch of bull. A good alarm company can make a tiny little device that allows the 9 volt traveler wire in your house smoke detectors to be monitored (it's the red or yellow wire on the smoke detector). This little traveler wire is what is used to set off all house smoke detectors when only one detects smoke. The alarm company can monitor this signal. If they tell you they can't do it due to code - have them install it after the final inspection. It is a lot cleaner to use your existing home smoke detectors then to have 2 sets of detectors. The Vista 20P panel might be too small for your system if each of the sensors has a dedicated zone. However, if some of these sensors are grouped in series, then it might be fine. In my house, I have 12 glass break sensors (each one on a seperate zone), 10 magnetic sensors on doors (3 zones), 3 CO sensor each on a seperate zone, 7 motion sensors each on a seperate zone, and 1 fire zone. A grand total of 25 zones and 32 sensors. I also have 3 keypads. I used the Vista 20P and 3 zone expander modules. In the future I paln to add a few more glass break sensors in the basement as well as some exterior IR sensors.

Any clothes hanging system will take 2 ft for clothes to hang. The layout you have (like all closet layouts) is deceptive w the space. they basically mark 1 foot for shelf/ hanging space . Double it then look at the layout. In reality your closet is too small to have hanging on both sides in half of the closet. The way that it is now will not work. The whole closet layout has to be reconfigured. could you steal space to widen the narrow part to a minimum of 6 feet (even that is tight)? Pax wouldn’t work in your closet (i love pax) theres just not enough space. The long straight wall should have all or most of the hanging. Since your ceiling is high enough, you can do two rows of hanging (long and short) with shelving over for seasonal and other storage. The angled wall may be used for shelving for shoes. Only you know what needs to fit in there. You might want to do a consult with a custom company and see what they suggest for storage. This is the reality should just do a single door, a pocket would be better

What needs to be treated in the water? Without seeing your water analysis, you won't get meaningful answers here. If you choose to list the problem aspects of the water do note if it's municipal or well water and where you live. A whole house system is generally installed to treat systemic issues like pH, hardness, high iron, etc. These would usually have media filled tanks that automatically regenerate and are serviced annually (maybe more often) to replace minerals and examine components. Under sink systems are usually for just drinking water. RO wastes a LOT of water for each gallon produced and is not done 'whole house'. If your incoming water is pretty bad and you don't have significant pre-filtration, your RO membrane will be really taxed. I have the iSpring PH100 RO system which claims the lowest waste water without using a permeate pump. It was a DIY. Filters are reasonably priced and it has a remineralization filter for taste. Also have a whole house neutralizer to address low pH.