My latest kick is Dr. Becker's book, Real Food. I haven't started the book yet - just got it. With her recipes, you can do either raw or cooked. I tried the raw, with Feline Instincts, and my animals did really, really well on it. At first, the whole process seemed daunting, but after you get into a routine, it's fine. But, I just can't do raw anymore. I work, so I'd have to put the food out in the a.m., and then take it up bc you can't, of course, leave raw chicken sitting around. My cats are all grazers and by the time I got home, they were ravenous. When I was home on a weekend, I'd have to keep taking the food in and out of the fridge all day long for whomever was hungry at the time (I have 5 cats), so it was just tooooo much. I really wanted to like B.I. and tried for a long time to get things set up with them, but their website had too many issues and they, too, are expensive. I look at sites like catinfo.org, and naturalcatcareblog.com for info often, too. I'm hoping Dr. Becker's book can give me some better, current info on meat sources. All I usually feed my cats is chicken. I've read that beef doesn't agree with a lot of cats, so I don't give them that. And I've read that you have to be careful not to give them certain kinds of fish or too much fish, plus they don't care for fish most of the time. No pork. I've seen on the Inet that you can buy rabbit and other odd sources, even live mice (can't do that) but, again, sooo expensive. In the meantime, I use Evo, esp for my kidney cat, and Weruva. Thankfully, I've got a really great vet that is affordable, so I can spend the $ on food that I need to, but even so....sheesh! I just cannot believe people still feed their cats dry food, tho. It's like having kids and letting them eat cheetos all the time.

Dave, I know that some multi-generation hybrids have lost the three leaf "tri". I imagine that this probably still has the three leaflet presentation, but was curious to see the leaf structure of what is a first gen hybrid (I'm assuming just a normal trifolate leaf).

@Marylee H I was just comparing the specs on the colors after reading your super educational comments on other similar posts! I did find that Cold Foam is closest to Alabaster, just lighter and more neutral...which is exactly what I wanted! I happened to have the catalogue with the two colors included so I've been studying them, and Cheviot looks pretty yellow so I'm surprised to see that it's more neutral according to the chroma. Anyway, thank you so much for pointing out those colors (that I've unknowingly overlooked even though they were right here in my room all this time, ugh) and explaining the meaning behind the numbers! Paint colors are SO hard!

Neutral = gold(ish). Golden oak = yellow. Both of those colours are SUPER WARM. If you want COOL you need to get RID of yellow, orange and red. duraseal-quick-coat-stain-chart.jpg (1510×1762) (netdna-ssl.com) Have a look at the chart. Can you see green in any colours? Think 'celery' rather than emerald. Each colour has been applied to Red and White Oak (they sit side-by-each). Chestnut has green in it. Provincial also has some green but it turns warm on Red Oak (snick more gold tones). Coffee Brown Dark Walnut Antique Brown These all have green in them. Be VERY careful with Jacobean if you are looking for a 'soft' brown. Jacobean is FANTASTIC at turning the mineral streaks (the grain) DARK BROWN/Black. If you want a soft brown, the Jacobean is probably not what you want.