In my situation, I'm actually finding that in large pots (8" or larger) CHC stays damp longer than spagh. I have a very large Phal hybrid in a 8" pot with CHC and even though the top inch or so dries out, if I really check down deep, the bottom portion is still fairly damp. Definatley one of those lift and check weight kind of plants. I also have a small Violacea species in a 4" pot with CHC and it does dry out fairly quickly, so it seems to based on quantity. I think that one thing that is important concerning using spaph, is how it is packed around the plant. I don't like plants to be hard packed into spagh, I'm more of the 'stuff as much as you can without hurting the roots kind of spagh guy'. When viewing through clear pots, I usually see some air voids in the media.(That is until the moss and such take over the clear pot). **Kneeling down seeking forgivenes from the phal goods, Bob makes this statement:** I water my 40+ phals once a week, on Saturdays. If the pot seems to still be damp, I wait until the next Saturday. It seems to work for me most of the time. There may be a special occasion or plant that I treat differently, but between misting mounties every morning and evening, the Wednesday morning waterings and dealing with the other 100+ non-phals, I need to keep things fairly simple and regulated to maximize my enjoyment of the hobby. A few years ago it started to feel like a 'job', so I took the more laid back approach. Back then, Saturday morning waterings took 2+ hours, Tuesday evening waterings took about 1-1.5 hours and it just started to seem like a hassle. I then switched up my grow room to accomodate watering in place (had been a hauler and dunker) and now the Wednesday morning watering takes @10-15 minutes and I can water my entire collection and the house plants on Saturdays in about 45 minutes. Shortening those watering times really helped me to enjoy my orchids even more. Bob

I would suggest it's a bit early to dismiss the supercropping as possible cause of the BER. I agree it's not likely, but one plant without symptoms doesn't necessarily prove the supercropping wasn't at fault. It's possible the control plant had some variable in its favor that made the difference. Of course it's more likely there was some other minor variable that pushed things against the plants with BER. For the aphids I'd say either go biological or get out the big guns. Hardcore pesticides aren't great, but sometimes it's better than a total loss. Oh, and leaving the fruit on can make the BER persist. Each of those fruits represents a major future investment of plant resources. If there isn't enough to go around (a calcium shortage causing BER) the more fruit they're trying to grow the more thinly it's spread and the worse the problem is likely to get. I'd advise removing anything with even a hint of BER. Force the plant to redirect it's resources to areas that aren't already lost causes. It may be time to look for a superior source for nutrition. I've been using Advanced Nutrients for awhile now without trouble. It might work better for you as well.

Maureen, thanks for the report!!! Good to know it actually works. Not buying it, but good to know. Re cake testers, I love mine (just like Annie's, but I know where it is), because I used to use a bamboo skewer. The wire leaves a much smaller hole. The loop end is dipped in tool goop for an easy, cool grip. Costs pennies. Worth it, though you could make one--just wrap the end around a dowel and twist tightly, then dip and dry. I tried to find a picture on Amazon and found a whole bunch of overpriced, overimproved ones that are too thick and have fancy holder ends, that could, conceivably, come off. At least one was over $10!!! Ridiculous! There was one expensive one that would be sort of worth it: Food safe nickel silver with fancy bead and curlique end for $7.50. But, even though these are really cute, they're short and lumpy and I think the simple, loop ended one is more useful. Oh. Here's one.

OK, wattleblossom - your garden sounds absolutely spectacular, but there are several points I'd like to make: 1. 'Your mileage may vary' : many of the species you have successfully grown, be they from Oz or wherever, simply wont do well in large parts of Queensland/Northern NSW/NT. Thats commonsense, but its easy for new gardeners to get drawn into the images presented by the (south-dominated) gardening media. Its a tribute to you that you have found the plants that thrive in your area. 2. Both sets of plants will be as 'low maintenance' as you want them to be, and that comes down to your preferred presentation. For example, pruning is a must for many shrubs, but how many need to be topiarised ? We can create hedges with exotic conifers or a species such as Melaleuca, but how can we prevent dieback in the centre of our new hedge ? This is one area where an informal planting scheme wins hands down, at least IMO. 3. From your description, it seems that you have two clearly delineated areas, and plants belong in one or the other by courtesy of their origin. I accept that this works for you, but have to ask if we need to build such arbitrary boundaries. I've made the point several times that I believe many of our rainforest plants are good companion plants for Vireya Rhododendrons, Gardenias and similar glossy-leaved exotics, and mixing dry climate plants from similar latitudes is already a well-worn path. Proteas are a slightly different story, although my 'high NPK' experiment still hasnt killed my tropical grevilleas :) 4. I also struggle with the insect-attack issue : none of us likes to see their evil handiwork, but I've been very lucky to date. Grasshoppers and caterpillars currently seem to be be enjoying exotics and natives alike in my garden, but its also rewarding to watch a magpie flying off with one of the marauding bugs protruding from its beak. Its currently very dry in CQ, and I suspect that this has pushed the insects into our gardens in larger numbers - they werent a problem in Summer. None of this makes my opinions any more valid than the next persons, but I do think that tight integration between Australian and imported plants is the key for the future of our native plants in commercial horticulture (as opposed to conservation). It will be a sad day when city kids can only see native plants in a botanical garden or arboretum. You or I could build an incredible garden using only plants from Madagascar, but would we be willing to limit ourselves to that one (admittedly sensational ..) island ? Who knows - Bunnings might start shipping truckloads of Madagascan plants after our gradens make the glossies :)