Hi, does anyone know if "Johnson's Baby Oil Gel with Aloe Vera & Vitamin E" will eventually dry out or evaporate on any surface over time? Thanks. The link to the exact product: https://www.amazon.com/Johnsons-Baby-Aloe-Vitamin-Relief/dp/B005IHST0I/ref=asc_df_B005IHST0I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416671854882&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16269815652370467300&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005868&hvtargid=pla-869035219136&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=94181909696&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416671854882&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16269815652370467300&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005868&hvtargid=pla-869035219136

Thanks everyone. I can't wait to see it with a finish coat ;) msrose, "Drybrush" means that you barely dip your brush ends into the paint/stain, and then brush it on, spreading it quite thin. It's called "dry" as opposed to your normal technique where you dip the entire brush into the paint, wipe off the biggest mess of that and then spread a much more significant amount of paint around. On that final coat, I really just touched the top of the stain a bit and spread it on. WHen you're all done with a "dry brush" technique, the top 2/3 of your brush really should be pretty "dry" because it never sees paint. I used a brush specifically for stain and varnish, a white china bristle brush. The synthetics don't hold up to the chemicals in stain and varnish, so natural bristle is a must for a good finish. I prefer a white china bristle because the bristle is a bit finer than a black china bristle, but if you can't find a really high quality white china bristle, go with black (cheap white china bristles will not hold and you'll end up with bristles in your paint). I actually prefer an ox hair brush for the final coat, but I can't find mine...so I may have to buy another brush. They're best for clear coats to get a streak free coat because their bristles are so fine. I umm sort of love paint brushes LOL I have dozens and always still "need" one more heh heh

You wrote...The only thing I could think off was how good I felt when I was with him in those little "sneaky" moments we get. Are you sure that's not just a rush of "excitement" rather than "love"? No judgement, I've been there. I was married with a small child, very unhappily married, no sex with my husband in a long time, and he had a co-worker stay with us for two weeks. In my house. And girl, was he the most handsome man ever!!! And, to top it off, I was expected to tour him around and entertain him (he was intern from out of state). There sure was chemistry. It was really hard. But I didn't break my vows, and I'm so glad I didn't. He ended up dating another girl with a husband, getting beat up and leaving the area. Then it ended up the IRS and police were looking for him for check forgery. All this from a nice, good looking, seemingly responsible man. Moral of the story? You can't help who you fall in love with. But you can help what you do about it. I'm now divorced for several years, and have met a man much much much more a "man" than that temptation ever will be. Is this my reward? Think of what yours would be if you stayed in this briar patch. Now get out into the sun and live your life. Best wishes, we all know it's hard. But no one ever said it would be easy.

Hope this helps! Cut and paste as well as the link to original post below SHOPPING LIST: -electric screwdriver or screw drill bits -mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet -miracle cloths (optional) -fine sandpaper -box-o-disposable gloves from walgreens or the like -old socks or rags for wiping on coats -disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for stirring/dipping (optional) -General Finishes water base Expresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a gel) This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark enough. -General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based) -General Finishes clear top coat (poly based) -old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. There are smaller sizes if your project is small. SETUP AND PLANNING: You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set up 2 spaces, garagefor sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing. Use newpaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you will prop doors to dry. Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks. PREPARATION: Take off doors and drawer fronts. Use screw drill bits on an electric drill if you don't have an electric srewdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark alike things so you know what goes back where.* Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong and scrub well. There's years of grease there. Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to clean and get the last of the gunk off. . STAINING: In order, we're gonna put on: -General Finishes Expresso water based stain (1-2 coats) - optional -General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats) -General Finishes Clear urethene gel topcoat in satin (couple coats) But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair (Tom, you may skip this step, LOL) and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring). Glove up. *First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone suffice. If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Expresso and return it.* Open and stir up the Expresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl. Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated. Slide a sock over your hand, grab a gob of Expresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well - overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with any other coat or sealer. A second coat can end up with a deeper tone at the end - though it might seem like the second coat is just dissolving the first. YMMV. Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*= messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown. Wait for the second coat to judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color, like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. *I did not sand between coats*. Repeat with clear gel top coat. This will give you the strength you need in a kitchen. Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toekick area. Might need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/ etc. NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all properly. FINISHING AND REASSEMBLY: I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a clear coat. When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear gel coat. Or two. Install your hardware. The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color. FINAL THOUGHTS: Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be sure it is the look you want. Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry, recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and this will save you A LOT of work. Front end patience is worth it. This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60 pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good. Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And after a year of pretty heavy use, I've just had a few nicks, easily repaired. I added smashing hardware, raised my passthrough, resurfaced the Corian (also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay for the update!! Link to cabinets in progress: http://photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic update project/kitchen during/ Link to almost finished cabinet pix: http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic update project/finished bit by bit/?start=20 Good luck with your project!! Feel free to ask me any questions as you go. And let me know if you try it and how it turns out. Here is a link that might be useful: Celticmoon's old post with directions