Thank you for all the responses! I think the south facing windows have been working because they have a screen on them, so I don't think they are getting the full amount of light. I'm also in a highrise that faces another highrise, so I think the other building partially blocks out some light. I have about 8 violets, some purchased in March, some a couple of months ago, and only this leaf has burned. I'm not sure why. Perhaps I spilled water on it or it was already damaged from shipping. Also, this one is a variegated type (Powwow), and the leaves are very green with only white on the very edges, which I thought meant it isn't receiving enough light. All my other violets are doing very well though. Although I'm noticing one of them that had large beautiful blooms is starting to bloom smaller and smaller petals. If I add lights to the window, do you put it on at the same time as the sun is out, or wait until the sun goes down and then turn on the light? Or perhaps leave the light on while the sun is out and for a few hours longer? Is there anything special about the lights I need to know other than getting full spectrum? I read something about getting lights with reflectors? In terms of feeding them, I haven't been only because I read that the peat moss I use (Miracle Gro Sphagnum Peat Moss) has miracle grow plant food in it, and I read somewhere that adding the normal fertilizer I used to use may be too much and I could end up killing it. Perhaps I am wrong about this? I also read that you should cut back on feeding in winter? I was also thinking about starting to feed it again soon to see if it helps the blooms, since I figure maybe they plants have already consumed all of the plant food that was in there. But not sure if that would be helpful or harmful.

This is too little, too late. Retail stores are closing left and right because of the North Carolina lowball pricing, and other 'internet' sellers, plus the invasion of cheap imports. What's happening to the furniture industry is the same thing that happened to the wallpaper business in the 90's. The discounters ran the retailers out of business, and then soon the consumer had no where to shop the papers (and then call the 800 line discounter). The entire domestic wallpaper market collapsed. North Carolina discounters can sell for less mainly because commercial property is cheap in North Carolina, and they freight from the plants with their own trucks. Their overhead is lower, so they can sell lower - counting on the consumer to use their local neighborhood stores to make their selections. Some will say that's fair competition, and they would be right. However, your local guy can't stay in business if he's used as showroom just so folks to shop in North Carolina Remember that your local guy pays a lot of taxes in your community, supports your schools, and spends HIS money in your area. When you lose a retailer, it affects your community more that you might think. Just yesterday I spent 2 hours with a customer on a bedding set. She decides what she wants, then goes home and gets on the internet. Calls me up later and tells me I have a very good price but there's a place in North Carolina that will do it for the same price but she doesn't have to pay sales tax from them. So either I eat another 5%, or she buys from them. Well, I can't cheat on sales tax, so I have to agree to do that to keep the sale. One more margin in the toilet. I personally am fed up with the furniture business. Seems the pressure on price from the customer is greater now than it has ever been, yet my county and state taxes increase every year, as does my rent and insurance. Trying to raise a family and put two kids through school is very, very hard on what one can make in this business. Last year I cut my prices to the bone to try to meet discounter's and wound up with so little profit that I can make a higher wage driving a UPS truck. I'm all for Minimum Selling Prices. That at least allows us in the business to maintain an average standard of living in a very tight, very competitive market.

I've never seen a laundry room that had curtains to the floor. That said, most simple cotton decorator fabric is 45" wide. If that is what you use, you will need one width for each panel. Measure from the top of your rod to the bottom of the sill (if that's where it will stop)and add about 8" to that measurement. This will give you extra for a hem and a rod pocket if that's what your're using. Then multiply times 2 and you have your total yardage. If you want each panel to match exactly across, then add about another 8 inches for a large print.

gardev I'm sure the experts will answer from the photos - I'm a newbie and only time will tell if it works well in my hands. (I'll see if I can dry some out for a possibly more informative photo.) Never have seen prettier in person around here. Most bark products at local big box stores are dyed or artificial or have unwanted additives, and the few nurseries or garden centers stock only cedar products. Local pine bark "finds" before included curled bark that was oddly like single cut paper shreds or flat soft noodles, or way too big chunks, both types of which looked like 70-80% sapwood. If it's of any use to you here's some more on this "Robin Hood Pine Bark Mulch". Note - didn't have either good eyes or good mesh-tools at hand - and the wind was blowing - but did a bit of a very unscientific size estimate, each from a 1 qt (32 fl oz.) scoop. - Bark from the bag. Of 32 oz about 5 oz went through 1/16", of the > 1/16" left about another 5 oz went through 1/8", and the remainder (> 1/8", < 1/2") totaled about 23 oz. - 5:1:1 mix try # 1. Particle distribution was "analyzed" in a different order. Of 32 oz about 12-13 oz went through 1/8", of that < 1/8" material about 6-7 oz went through 1/16". The mix appears to drain much faster than something like MG would, but do wonder if the smaller particle size fraction may be a bit high, and should reduce the peat for a subsequent batch. (Can't yet expect to have the breadmaker's "feel" for the dough, as Al sometimes has put it.)