Hi GH, All of that water demand will, most likely require a 3/4" water line, instead of the standard 1/2" water line, be piped to the shower to deliver additional volume and pressure. Without that, you will not have good performance from using multiple sprays, regardless of the valve type or diverter option. And yes, the volume is cut in half with shared functions from a diverter, but depending on the shower heads, may still be adequate. It's a balancing act, and will depend on your water pressure from the street. For a standard 1/2" diverter, to just switch between functions, the Delta R11000 rough-in body is reasonable and good quality. Then you choose the type of trim option and a 6 function cartridge. Otherwise, if 3/4" water line is at the shower, separate volume controls will allow all the functions to flow at full blast.

here is the information for installation: Quick Installation (Easiest Way): a. Measure and attach 2 brackets onto wall. make sure the hose will reach the shower pipe from your mounting location. Included anchors are for tile surface. Be sure to use a masonry or ceramic drill bit. Fiberglass enclosures will need a different "toggle style" adapter to attach the brackets. Be sure to silicone around the bracket if attaching to fiberglass. b. Notch the side of the unit where the hose exits. Depending on the material of the shower panel construction, different tools can be used for this purpose. c. Using an assistant, attach the shower panel to the shower pipe, and hang the panel onto the 2 brackets, making sure it is "locked" into place by pulling downward onto it, and moving side to side to make certain it is affixed onto the brackets. d. Although this is the easiest way, you may notice the pressure is not strong enough to run all the showerheads simultaneously. This is because both the hot and cold feed run through a single hose before being distributed to the showerheads. (You may want to test the pressure with an assistant before attaching the unit to the wall this way) 2. Remodel (Best Way) a. On the back of the shower panel, remove the "T" connector that connect the hot and cold water lines along with the input hose. Shut off the water at the main using a curb key. Close the valves at the water heater (figure A). Next, turn off the power to the water heater. Open the hot and cold at the bathroom faucet to relieve the pressure in the lines. Then, open the valve (figure B) to let the remaining water out. Remove the shower arm using slip-joint pliers to loosen it first. Remove any parts you can from the valve body (figure C). Use a hacksaw to cut the water line where you can leave as much copper pipe as possible above the valve body (figure D), then cut either the hot or cold line. Using slip-joint pliers, unscrew the old valve (figure E) off the male adapter and remove. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Prepping the Pipes Install a compression fitting (figure A) to replace the adapter that was just removed from the hot or cold line. Apply Teflon paste to the threads on the end of the cold and hot water line (figure B). Hand tighten the factory provided female adapters to the threads (figure C), then tighten down with pliers. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hanging the Body Shower: Before installing the anchors, place a piece of painters tape over the spot where you'll be drilling the hole. This helps prevent damage to the tile. Using your drill with a tile bit, drill the hole into the tile. Apply silicone caulk to the anchor for a good seal. Follow the manufacturers instructions when installing anchors. Place the anchor into the hole, then set the screw. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mounting the Body Shower Attach the stainless steel water line to the adapters (figure A) installed earlier, then tighten with pliers. Mount the body shower by lining up the bolts over the keyholes on the back of the unit (figure B). Start with the top and work your way to the bottom. Tighten the nut onto the shower bolt located on the bottom of the body shower (figure C), then tighten with pliers. Install the two side screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Next, install the side panels (figure D). Place the shower arm into the holder, then attach the hose to the male adapter on the unit. Connect the water lines to the female adapter on the back of the cover plate (figure E). Put the cover plate on, then snap on the decorative plates around the jets. Turn on the water at the main, then turn on the water and power to the water heater. Turn on the shower and allow the water to cycle through, then test the temperature to ensure the anti-scald valve is working properly. Finally, install the handle and tighten the setscrew (figure F). Do It Yourself: Ed the Plumber 3. New Construction or Major Remodel (Best Way) a. On the back of the shower panel, remove the "T" connector that connect the hot and cold water lines along with the input hose. Install the hot and cold lines at about 5' height and 4" apart with ball valves pointing downward for easy hose attachment and shower panel connection and removal for service without having to turn the water off to the entire residence. b. attach brackets. Remember to measure carefully!

i am looking for recommendations on pulsating, massage action body sprays. i know several are available. does anyone out there know if they work well and if one is any better than the others?

I'm looking for a couple of body sprays/body jets for my master bathroom remodel, am finding a lot with 2.5 GPM rating but am looking for one in oil rubbed bronze with 1.5 GPM rating, preferably with choice of regular spray and massage spray. Anyone have any idea who, if anyone, makes this item? I'm not finding anything so far. I'm going with a tankless and due to how cold it is where I live the GPM of the tankless isn't that great so I can't do high GPM body sprays/jets. Thanks!