Jaretwoman! I didn't realize you were in Ohio (I live in Columbus) Try this link for advice. This website is hosted by an attorney in Ohio, he answers the posts promptly and offers great free advice. I've turned to him on more than one occasion. I have no connection to him at all, BTW! ~P Here is a link that might be useful: Ohio Landlord Tenant

It's possible that the assumptions here are all wrong. First of all, if it's a fuse that's blowing then the problem is over current and not necessarily over voltage. Noise on the line, if that's a problem, is likely introduced after the 24-volt transformer, as a power transformer by its very nature, being an inductor, will likely not pass transient high frequency noise, it's too slow to react unless it's part of a switching power supply design or an oscillator. The 3-legged packaged regulator (DC) referred to is likely a TO-220 (maybe a TO-92) package. A small value (capacitance) bypass cap may help if in fact there is some sort of RF transients being introduced (after the transformer secondary winding). Even though 24-volt AC feeds this device, it most certainly must convert this AC to DC (probably 12-volt) in order to function. There should be regulation and bypass built into the design. Another possible but expensive solution might be 'Whole House Surge Protection' installed right at the load center (electrical entrance). This should provide protection from voltage spikes originating from both sides of the load center (utility & internal). Besides, now that we have microprocessor controlled HVAC systems with ECM motors, microprocessor controlled 220-volt stoves, ovens, dryers etc., how else can we protect these sensitive devices from spikes? It's not just your large screen A/V system that needs this type of protection in today's world. You can't buy a Monster Power Bar for your HP! Another advantage of Whole House Surge Protection is that it ties all the separate grounds of the electrical utility, telephone lines and cable lines together to one common ground. Have you ever tried measuring the voltage (AC) between these grounds with a Fluke? The comment that is most interesting is from mike_home regarding humidity and static electricity, though I suspect the source of the problem lies elsewhere. Back to this Nest thing, what's directly on this fuse's circuit that's drawing so much current? This could be a design flaw and may not be up to you to solve. SR

Too high water pressure. Your whole house regulator needs adjustment.

Trying to trouble shoot this problem. Coil, fuse, thermostat, heating element all good. Still makes noise when heating. Attached is a video of the noise... last thing I can think of is the gas regulator making the noise.Maytag dryer noise