Experienced something similar with CB grill. Have a low end one that I bought at the end of the season... maybe 3 years ago. One day last summer, ran out of gas. With the easier connector (no need for a wrench), coulda just reached around and disconnected. Lucky for me, I stepped off deck to have easier access. That's when I noticed a HUGE hole in gas line... maybe 2-3 inches long!?! After looking at it, obvious results of squirrels/chipmunk gnawing. WHole assembly connected by 2 screws behind knobs. So off to L or HD. Thought I found replacement (maybe $15), but holes on grill were just a little too close together. Dug up manual and part would have been $49.99 plus S+H! Grill was only about $100 when on sale. In hindsight, probably coulda drilled another hole in front of grill, but didn't. I did a "redneck" conversion... until I can afford a new grill. Removed all the gas "guts", set in a patio brick (something like 6x12x1+) to semi-cover air vents in bottom, and now use charcoal. It's a bit tacky, but works great... till I can go back to gas.

I don't know about the CharBroil, but I converted my Members Mark to NG a year ago by drilling the orifaces for the main burners to 5/64's and the back burner to 1/16th -- this may at least get you started in the correct direction. When you convert to NG you do not need a regulator. One less thing to go out. ;->

Owen, Anytime you are dealing with a charbroiler on a piece of cooking equipment you are going to need an absolute minimum of 900 CFM. You also need to take into consideration the overall length of duct run and the number of elbows used in the run. If you have a lengthy run of duct and a number of elbows you may need 1200 CFM. Your local dealer will be able to help determine your needs based on the total BTU's of your range and the variables I have already mentioned above. I also want to try to clear up some of the other things that have been mentioned in this thread. VAH's statement regarding equivalent CFM is something that is often unintentionally misrepresented due a sales staffs lack of understanding or more likely a sales reps lack of properly explaining it during training. The truth of the matter is that, many (not all) manufacturers rate the CFM of their "blowers" not the entire system including filters. VAH tests the entire hood system. The equivalent CFM statement is based on these differences. When you introduce filters there is approximately a 33% drop in stated CFM, thus a VAH 600 CFM system performs equally as well as a competing 900 CFM system from another manufacturer. Since VAH's system is a patented centrifugal extraction style system, no filters are required so when the hoods are tested the result is true CFM ratings. Many people think an external blower system is quieter than an internal system. External blowers are actually no quieter due to the fact that you are still sucking air across a filter which is where most noise in a ventilation system is created. VAH does offer a remote system that is typically used when there is a restriction in the width of the hood. It should be noted that a VAH external system is no better or worse than another external system and the VAH external system offers none of the features of the patented magic lung system. "Aside from this, the other thing I did not like about VAH was each blower only operates at two speeds, Low and High... and if you set one to High and one to Low they fight against each other and make more noise. The Wolf, and others, have infinite speed control so you only use the power you need." I have to disagree with the statement above. The truth is, each blower in a VAH system is in its own housing. So if it is a dual blower there is no possible way for blowers to "fight against each other" as air does not mix until after is in the duct work. In addition to that, based on sound testing done by the same third party tester HVI uses, it has been proven that adding another blower in a VAH system adds little to no additional noise to the system whether 600 or 1200 CFM which is something that is not possible with an infinite speed control. As far as fan speed is concerned, a VAH dual blower 600 CFM system offers speed selection of 300,450, & 600 CFM. The fact that there is not a variable speed switch is intentional for the reasons I mentioned above. 300 CFM has been proven to be the minimum CFM required to extract grease no matter what type of filtration system. Anything less is simply not effective in removing grease from the air stream. It should also be noted that at no time are the motors in a VAH system exposed to the flow of greasy air. The same cannot be said for a filter style system. At the end of the day, tinker toy or not, a 75 yr. track record of no fire claims is testament enough to the fact that VAH just works.

I don't know if you can get a built-in griddle after-the-fact. Why don't you call Wolf customer service, or the store where you bought the range, and ask them what it would involve and how much would it cost. An alternative is simply to buy an accessory griddle. They're inexpensive, and still leave you with the flexibility to have 6 burners when you need them. Also, built-in griddles can be hard to clean, and some people on this forum have reported that they can never get them to look truly clean. Meanwhile the accessory griddle can just be carried to the sink. Lodge Logic Griddle LPG13 Chef King Griddles