We used to have quite a few coal stokers when I was younger. Now we have quite a few customers with rice coal stoves. Here in the Northeast, oil is the cheapest way to go for space heating, domestic hot water production, pool heating and snow-melt systems for the set it and forget it crowd. Most of our fuel customers have oil fired hydronic systems and many have pellet stoves, wood stoves and fireplaces. Many people install gas fired forced air systems in some homes since the initial cost of the system is less due to ultra cheap gas fired equipment, more direct vent options and the fact that the skill level required to install and setup a gas fired forced air system is low enough that almost anyone can install one. This saves a lot of money in professional labor charges and the expense of an oil tank, piping or a chimney, stainless chimney liner, power-venter, oil fired condensing boiler or a direct vent boiler in new construction and and retrofit situations. People that install gas fired forced air work dirt cheap since there's a lot of competition in that market, but skilled hydronics techs and skilled oil service techs command more money so it's reflected in the price.The lightweight gas fired scorched air units are also much easier on the back than hauling large cast iron boilers, heavy duty oil fired forced air furnaces and 500 gallon skid tanks into basements. No need for extra help and you can leave the climbing hand truck at home when you're installing lightweight forced air equipment.

Thank you all for the fast responses. I do intend on having the problem resolved before we use the dryer - the question I had was who to call first. I think I will start with the appliance company to make sure the air/fuel mixture was adjusted properly. This should be zero cost to me since we paid for a white glove service and should be covered under that. The dryer we ordered was LP but they shipped a NG unit. A service tech had to come out and put the converter in - but I suspect that there are adjustments that need to be made. Once I know that the appliance has been set up correctly - and if the long yellow flames persist - then I will call the gas company. They will gladly come out - but I have to pay for the call if there is nothing wrong with he service. My house is at 1250 feet above sea level. Perhaps the appliance was set for sea level performance and needs to be adjusted for my higher elevation. Again - thanks very much for the very quick responses. I will post back once I have the problem resolved.

The sellers position is interesting to say the leastÂbecause if they truly believed that weather and the gas leak were the cause for the high reading, why would it matter to them if you had the second test performed by a radon tech of your choice? Unless of course they have a "plan" to make certain the level test at below 4.0Â That said, purchase contracts usually state that the buyer has the right to test using professionals whom they chooseÂÂnot the sellerÂs choiceÂso IÂm not quite sure what standing they have for their demand. GrantedÂit does depend on how badly you want the houseÂand then again, also how badly they wish to sell. If you walked from the deal, they would have to disclose the 4.2Âor risk being charged with consumer fraud otherwiseÂ...as there is now a paper trail, and the info is on file and has been reported to NJDEP.... ....so IÂm not sure what their point is in this matterÂas the whole process would have to start all over again in a very soft buyers market. Depending upon the age, type and structure of the home, $500 may not buy you all that much in the way of mitigation. IMO, I would have a licensed radon mitigation specialist (a different license than that of radon technician) give you an estimate on costÂbefore you agree. Usually attorneyÂs shy away from the credit for mitigationÂas some homes are a challenge to mitigate. When this does happenÂÂwhich is not oftenÂit is usually an older homeÂ.and sometimesÂstandard methods donÂt workÂbut meanwhile the buyer is now the ownerÂso it becomes their problem. The decision on what to do is yoursÂbut IMO, all this is well worth considering. Last but not leastÂif you DO take the creditÂplease seriously consider using it to have the home mitigated ASAPÂas opposed to hoping the level remains below 4.0 between self-testing. If not for the benefit of your own health and that of your familyÂfor the fact that chances are when it is your turn to sell, you will probably have to pay do so anyway. ThereforeÂwhy not reap the health benefits now?

Yes, insist on getting the high altitude jets installed. At 9800', you won't have even close to the right air-fuel with sea-level jets, they'll burn extremely rich. And of course you're going to need high altitude jets for LP, not natural gas. I did the jet switch on our Monogram gas cooktop, since we self-installed in our "only" ;) 8300' house, and it was a pain but doable *before* actual installation. Hopefully the Wolf is easier, as the Monogram was sort of like playing the old Operation kids game. This was in 2010, so design could be quite different now, I suppose/hope. Unless you've cooked awhile at altitude, I recommend playing around with boiling and simmering water with an instant-read thermometer, so you have an idea of how much longer/different heat you'll need for recipes. I had a Monogram range down around 5k' altitude and loved the dual-stack simmer burners, but up higher here the same simmer setting on the cooktop never gets hot enough for an actual simmer temp. Also, "Pie in the Sky" is an excellent high altitude baking cookbook.