If you need a new engine,I have a Tecumseh 3HP and a 4.5HP I will sell for $45.00 each plus shipping.

I purchased the Costco "Classic" back in the early 2000's - I think it was 2000 to be exact. I am STILL using it in June of 2019 (love to read the "I'm afraid of this new product's longevity / reliability" comments posted in 2002). Went through several grill covers - I leave it out all year long - much too heavy to move around and I am in NJ so we don't use it after November open it in late April/Early May. A good Quality Cover is important to keep water out of the side burner compartment (does not drain at all) and main burners - water is bad. But if I took some photos of this grill you would think it was only a few years old. It is by far the best grill I ever owned - replaced the heavy duty high BTU side burner once because of water damage (found an exact replacement - you need to search for the specific model to buy quality parts - not the imported junk sold on Amazon) and the main burners once in 18 years - one of them needs replacement again - I did find the CORRECT heavy gauge stainless main burners on line at a BBQ parts store. As a comparison (you get what u pay for) the thin gauge stainless burners that u get from Big box or Amazon cost around $20 or less for all 3 burners - the correct heavy gauge SS replacement burners cost over $20 each - if u but the cheap ones they will rot out in a season or maybe two - the heavy gauge replacements will last 5 to 10 years. Other than trying to find a quality cover that will last more than 2 years (I am trying a new "King Kong" brand cover - it's more $$$ than the run of the mill types but fit, feel, vinyl thickness seems to be of a much higher quality - last one was a top of the line Sears brand - got about 4 years out of it before it rotted away. The grills are indestructible as is the frame, cover and other parts that fall apart on other grills in 5 years or less, no rust or corrosion anywhere, easy to clean, BTW - I converted mine from propane to Natural gas after the first 3 or so years once NG was available in my neighborhood, I also converted a 40 year old Propane fireplace to Natural Gas.. You don't need a "special kit" from the manufacturer - all that is needed is either replacing the venturi valve orifices on each of the burner controls including the 3 main burners, the rotisserie burner and the side burner, or you can carefully drill out the old orifice to support NG (Propane is under higher pressure and uses a smaller hole than NG) - I did this on the fireplace - you need a special sized (numbered drill bit) drill bit used by machinists - they use numbered bits as opposed to what most people are familiar with like 1/8" may be a #34 in numbered bits - they can be had just google - I think Harbor Freight may carry them as well since they are used by the automotive repair industry as well. Once you look up the correct size hole for Natural gas in your area (sometimes extreme elevation may require a different size than sea level - easy enough to research) I recommend using a drill press (I have a small one that cost under $100) for a perpendicular hole - but the orifice metal is soft brass - this isn't rocket science. If you want to purchase replacement venturis - especially if your not sure if u may move and convert grill back to propane) they are very inexpensive for the kit, size / threads are pretty much standard - any good Fireplace, Professional Plumbing that deals in gas appliances, or BBQ grill stores (on line or retail stores) can provide you will the venturis u need based on the model grill - or worst case - u may have to remove an old venturi and take it to the store or measure it using a caliper or precision ruler & a photo to send to on-line store. There are only a few different sizes & most BBQ grills are one size. The post that said " I heard you need to change burners if u convert from propane to N.G. or u get a yellow flame" is total nonsense - if they were told that by a salesman - they were being ripped off. The burner doesn't care if the fuel is propane or NG - that is ridiculous when u consider how many other gas appliance can run on either fuel and imagine having to change the burners in a 600,000 BTU Pool heater because you changed from propane to NG or visa versa - that would cost about $500... I converted both my fireplace & grill to NG and did not change either devices burners - the FP I drilled out the venturi and the grill my local FP store/repair shop (been there for 40 years - an old timey type shop) had the 5 venturis needed for the grill - again not special for my grill - same size as Weber and other big USA name brands (Ducane, Viking etc...). I think they were something like $2 to 3 dollars each. Taking apart the gas control valve is easy once you get it out of the grill - a bit difficult cause you have to lay on your back to access the valves. REMEMBER you also need to remove the old Propane feed hose assembly from the main valve assembly that has the gas input male flare fitting (should be 3/8" male flare - if you measure the outside diameter of fitting it will measure 1/2" !! that is 3/8", a true 1/2" fitting would measure 3/4" outside diameter - I don't know why gas fittings are listed by INSIDE DIAMETER when all other plumbing is measured by outside diameter - anyway - if it measures 1/2" then it is 3/8" that you would need to order/buy - this can be purchased on Amazon - the hose comes in 6', 12', 25' & 36' either 3/8" or 1/2" fitting - one end - the female 3/8" flare - screws onto grill 3/8" male flare - the other end is a two piece quick connect safety push & click connector - u need to have an outside male NPT (pipe thread) connection from you on/off ball valve - I believe it is 3/8" also (not flare - NPT) - the hose comes with the quick connect adapter that screws onto the 3/8" male NPT - the other end is the "quick connect" female - the hose has the male push on quick connect. The rubber hose is actually 1/2" even though they list this as a 3/8" (I accidently ordered the 1/2" hose & Fitting - 2x as expensive - longest = 24', and huge in comparison to what I needed - as I said before the 1/2" is much less common - harder to find and measures 3/4" fittings, hose etc... - had to send it back to amazon and replace with a 36' x 3/8" worked perfectly & extra length was needed. Having an outside ball valve allows me to shut system off when not in use - in case a critter chews thru my hose - but if you disconnect the quick connect fitting it has an automatic shutoff at the fitting - good if someone pulls off hose at house but doesn't help if vinyl hose is cut or eaten. The hose I have is 15 years old - no leaks. o conversion is relatively simple 2 step process - replace the 5 venturis or remove and drill with correct numbered drill bit sized for NG & replace propane high pressure hose with low pressure 3/8" x length needed - 3/8" flare on grill end & quick connect on hose end - recommend installing outside ball valve to shut of gas when not in use.

I believe this is done on purpose as I had discovered the same issue with mine when I was on LP. A good friend of mine has a Weber Silver C Series with a side burner and it does the same thing. I think the intention was that if the burner was allowed to run too low, it might blow out. Since the grill comes as an "LP" model, the gas is heavier than air. If the burner was to blow out easily, the gas could build up somewhere lower than the burner and then it could migrate to the mains if they were on. The next thing that could happen is obvious. When I converted to natural gas, I found the low on my side burner to be much better. Of course, natural gas being lighter than air, if it blows out, the gas just dissipates upwards. I don't know if that is a lot better, but at least I know I won't get an explosion. A couple of things you could consider, one would be to convert the grill to natural gas. The other is to make the valve smaller. The way to do this is to first remove the front cover of the grill by removing all of the knobs, then the screws holding each valve to the cover. Next, remove the four screws holding the panel on (two on each end) then you can pull the front panel forward, exposing the wires attached to the igniters. Once you gently pull the wires from the igniter modules, the front cover is free to be removed. Now, you can disassemble the front of the valve for the side burner with two small screws then remove the stem and front of the valve. When you do this, be careful not to lose the spring or "D" ring when you remove the stem. Once this is out, you can remove the brass cone inside the valve, it simply pulls out. If you use needle nose pliers to do this and to hold the cone, this will keep the grease on the cone for smooth turning. If you look at the cone, you will notice a small hole and a large hole. The large one is for the high setting and when the valve is in this position it allows the flow of gas to be controlled by the orifice. When the valve is turned to the small hole, this hole size controls the low setting. I did this successfully on my friends Weber and it worked out nicely. Once you have located the small hole, you have to make it smaller. The only way I have seen this accomplished without replacing the cone, is to solder the small hole shut, and then re-drill it to a smaller size. You will need a numbered drill bit set for this project and (Of course) you will want to turn your gas off first and disconnect and remove the tank just to be safe. I have included a link below, which will show you pictures of what a similar gas valve looks like apart. It is from a Members Mark, but the internal portion of the valve is identical. I would recommend probably starting with a #70 and trying that first. If it blows out too easily then increase it (lower drill number) one size at a time. A #70 should yield about 5500 BTU's with 11" of LP. I am running a #60 on my low setting which yields about 5750 BTU's at 7" of NG, so this should be fairly accurate. I hope this helps and there is also a chart to show you these BTU figures at the link below. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: BTU charts and valve pics

It looks like the film-build is pretty thick/rough/lumpy, especially where the flash is brightest (mid-left). A sanded/smoothed/primed surface shouldn't look even HALF that rough! It looks to ME anyway, sorta like an orange-peel wall texture. My diagnosis: It's sprayed-on slightly too thick. * OR...was your surface prior to priming that lumpy?! * I noted that you took off glued-slats, and that some glue MAY have been a factor. * BUT...since you sanded and used BIN, that shouldn't be a factor anymore. Secondary...those cheap sprayers are nearly hopeless for a good cabinet finish. There's a reason good sprayers cost a few-hundred $$$... I'd roll on the next coat(s), and immediately lay-off with a good brush. Remedy: * You'll have to scrape off the existing paint IMO. * When you do, note the backside of the chips. Does the primer come off too? Faron