It depends a bit on your situation as well as on you. If your yard is flat, and you're building a flat patio, and you have easy access via a back alley or side yard, I'd say it's an accessible project. If you have to grade the area dramatically, or if there are other complicating factors, you might consider having installers in. There are probably lots other than HD who would be happy to have the work. Consider that you need to: - haul in (or have delivered) tons of sand (we just did a 10 x 12 patio and used more than 20 bags of sand) - haul in the pavers (or have delivered) - rent and haul in (and out) a compacter, which is a large, rude piece of equipment. - if your patio is to be anything other than square, you may need to cut bricks, so rent a cutter - spend a little time fussing with the level and flatness of the ground, then the sand, then the patio, which can be tedious. That's if you don't do the crushed stone layer, which we didn't and which is probably not necessary in your zone either. Here's what I would do if I were you. 1. Do some reading. There are dozens of books that will show you how to do this, in fact the brochures for the paving stone manufacturers have a brief "how to" section. 2. Design your patio. How complicated will it be? Do you have any non-standard features that might reduce the DIY potential or dramatically increase the cost of installers? Investigate the many different types of pavers available - in our area, some of the best ones aren't even available at the box stores! 3. Price your options. A couple of days of your time vs. the price of the installers. Include your time and effort needed to haul in the sand and bricks, as the installers would probably organize delivery or bring them. 4. Know yourself. Do you just want a patio quick and proper, or will you enjoy the patio more if you DIY? How will you feel about imperfections if it is done for you vs. if you DIY? Cheers!

The trays should not be flat. They have a slight drop on either side, but grease will run down and/or can collect with drippings and catch fire. You can look at the Members Mark it has ceramic all across and close to the grate. You then have the issue of grease build up at that point, but maybe that meets your needs/expectation better? The Grates are pretty simple design like all other grills. I honestly don't know what you will find as an improvement over stainless steel grates? See all the info on cleaning on this forum, or just burn it to ash and brush it off. There is at least one grill that has a ceramic element (like the rotisserie) at the bottom and a patented grease burning process. It is much more money, but hey if you got it!? See allgrills.com selection.

I purchased the Costco "Classic" back in the early 2000's - I think it was 2000 to be exact. I am STILL using it in June of 2019 (love to read the "I'm afraid of this new product's longevity / reliability" comments posted in 2002). Went through several grill covers - I leave it out all year long - much too heavy to move around and I am in NJ so we don't use it after November open it in late April/Early May. A good Quality Cover is important to keep water out of the side burner compartment (does not drain at all) and main burners - water is bad. But if I took some photos of this grill you would think it was only a few years old. It is by far the best grill I ever owned - replaced the heavy duty high BTU side burner once because of water damage (found an exact replacement - you need to search for the specific model to buy quality parts - not the imported junk sold on Amazon) and the main burners once in 18 years - one of them needs replacement again - I did find the CORRECT heavy gauge stainless main burners on line at a BBQ parts store. As a comparison (you get what u pay for) the thin gauge stainless burners that u get from Big box or Amazon cost around $20 or less for all 3 burners - the correct heavy gauge SS replacement burners cost over $20 each - if u but the cheap ones they will rot out in a season or maybe two - the heavy gauge replacements will last 5 to 10 years. Other than trying to find a quality cover that will last more than 2 years (I am trying a new "King Kong" brand cover - it's more $$$ than the run of the mill types but fit, feel, vinyl thickness seems to be of a much higher quality - last one was a top of the line Sears brand - got about 4 years out of it before it rotted away. The grills are indestructible as is the frame, cover and other parts that fall apart on other grills in 5 years or less, no rust or corrosion anywhere, easy to clean, BTW - I converted mine from propane to Natural gas after the first 3 or so years once NG was available in my neighborhood, I also converted a 40 year old Propane fireplace to Natural Gas.. You don't need a "special kit" from the manufacturer - all that is needed is either replacing the venturi valve orifices on each of the burner controls including the 3 main burners, the rotisserie burner and the side burner, or you can carefully drill out the old orifice to support NG (Propane is under higher pressure and uses a smaller hole than NG) - I did this on the fireplace - you need a special sized (numbered drill bit) drill bit used by machinists - they use numbered bits as opposed to what most people are familiar with like 1/8" may be a #34 in numbered bits - they can be had just google - I think Harbor Freight may carry them as well since they are used by the automotive repair industry as well. Once you look up the correct size hole for Natural gas in your area (sometimes extreme elevation may require a different size than sea level - easy enough to research) I recommend using a drill press (I have a small one that cost under $100) for a perpendicular hole - but the orifice metal is soft brass - this isn't rocket science. If you want to purchase replacement venturis - especially if your not sure if u may move and convert grill back to propane) they are very inexpensive for the kit, size / threads are pretty much standard - any good Fireplace, Professional Plumbing that deals in gas appliances, or BBQ grill stores (on line or retail stores) can provide you will the venturis u need based on the model grill - or worst case - u may have to remove an old venturi and take it to the store or measure it using a caliper or precision ruler & a photo to send to on-line store. There are only a few different sizes & most BBQ grills are one size. The post that said " I heard you need to change burners if u convert from propane to N.G. or u get a yellow flame" is total nonsense - if they were told that by a salesman - they were being ripped off. The burner doesn't care if the fuel is propane or NG - that is ridiculous when u consider how many other gas appliance can run on either fuel and imagine having to change the burners in a 600,000 BTU Pool heater because you changed from propane to NG or visa versa - that would cost about $500... I converted both my fireplace & grill to NG and did not change either devices burners - the FP I drilled out the venturi and the grill my local FP store/repair shop (been there for 40 years - an old timey type shop) had the 5 venturis needed for the grill - again not special for my grill - same size as Weber and other big USA name brands (Ducane, Viking etc...). I think they were something like $2 to 3 dollars each. Taking apart the gas control valve is easy once you get it out of the grill - a bit difficult cause you have to lay on your back to access the valves. REMEMBER you also need to remove the old Propane feed hose assembly from the main valve assembly that has the gas input male flare fitting (should be 3/8" male flare - if you measure the outside diameter of fitting it will measure 1/2" !! that is 3/8", a true 1/2" fitting would measure 3/4" outside diameter - I don't know why gas fittings are listed by INSIDE DIAMETER when all other plumbing is measured by outside diameter - anyway - if it measures 1/2" then it is 3/8" that you would need to order/buy - this can be purchased on Amazon - the hose comes in 6', 12', 25' & 36' either 3/8" or 1/2" fitting - one end - the female 3/8" flare - screws onto grill 3/8" male flare - the other end is a two piece quick connect safety push & click connector - u need to have an outside male NPT (pipe thread) connection from you on/off ball valve - I believe it is 3/8" also (not flare - NPT) - the hose comes with the quick connect adapter that screws onto the 3/8" male NPT - the other end is the "quick connect" female - the hose has the male push on quick connect. The rubber hose is actually 1/2" even though they list this as a 3/8" (I accidently ordered the 1/2" hose & Fitting - 2x as expensive - longest = 24', and huge in comparison to what I needed - as I said before the 1/2" is much less common - harder to find and measures 3/4" fittings, hose etc... - had to send it back to amazon and replace with a 36' x 3/8" worked perfectly & extra length was needed. Having an outside ball valve allows me to shut system off when not in use - in case a critter chews thru my hose - but if you disconnect the quick connect fitting it has an automatic shutoff at the fitting - good if someone pulls off hose at house but doesn't help if vinyl hose is cut or eaten. The hose I have is 15 years old - no leaks. o conversion is relatively simple 2 step process - replace the 5 venturis or remove and drill with correct numbered drill bit sized for NG & replace propane high pressure hose with low pressure 3/8" x length needed - 3/8" flare on grill end & quick connect on hose end - recommend installing outside ball valve to shut of gas when not in use.

Suggie, I have never known a mouse to hoard tree seeds like that. You are finding the entire "helicopter" and not just the seed. I wonder if what you have isn't a member of the squirrel family. Mice wouldn't bring in "millions" of complete Maple (helicopter) seeds and hoard them in the walls. You are finding the helicopters falling out of the wall in the basement? Have you checked the attic? For the mouse in the basement, I live in the middle of farm land. Mice laugh at spray foam, they chew it away and spit it out. Tell hubby to use exterior door and window caulk on exterior holes. The mice get bored trying to chew through it and move on to the easier access at the neighbors house.