why don't you call Wolf and ask their tech dept? be sure to have the model #

Does anyone happen to have the Natural Gas hood orifices for their Jenn-Air gas range that they no longer need? I purchased this range a little over two years ago. It came with the natural gas orifices but we were LP so we used the conversion kit to convert. We are now converting back to Natural Gas and I can not locate my original natural gas orifices. I have not been able to locate Natural Gas conversion kit and Jenn-Air is currently trying to locate part number for me to order.It seems everyone has the LP conversion kits but no one has the Natural Gas. I know I should have done better keeping up with the originals but I never knew they would be so difficult to replace. If anyone happens to know the part number for the Natural Gas orifices I would like that information also. Thanks!

Below are the pump and heater in question. I was thinking of setting up the heater away from the Spa and plumbing to it. I have recently removed my pool heater (it was beyond repair)and could set this heater up in the same location. It is about 35 feet from the spa. Somewhere in the plumbing I would switch from metal to PVC and connect into the existing spa plumbing. Is this a sound plan or am I crazy??? Pump and Motor - A.O. Smith Century Centurion starite duraglass 2 HP 3450 rpm 230 volt 11.5 amps continuous duty Heater - Teledyn Laars Series 2 175,000 btu brass headers (not cast iron) Model#ESC175NB, natural gas

I hope someone can give me some sage advice. I'm converting the entire house from LP to Nat Gas. It's been an unbelievable hassle but that's another story. My plumber/mechanical contractor used the parts I ordered to switch my 4 burner plus griddle Viking Range top. He did a great job in adjusting the burners i.e. no yellow flame. However, the next morning when I attempted to cook breakfast, I was not happy., It took forever for the pan to heat up to cook the sausage etc. I went on line to find out more about the size of the flame and mine is clearly very small. I've never had natural gas. I know it doesn't burn as hot as LP however, the burners are rated 15,000 for nat gas and 13,000 something for propane. I fiddled around trying to up the burners had some minimal success but nothing to write home about. I called the parts people as I thought perhaps they sold me the incorrect parts. They assured me what I have is correct. After a lengthy conversation, he stopped and looked at my model number and said that particular year (2001) has a pin. If the orifice is screwed down too tight, it will impede the flow of gas. I don't have the right tools borrowed a box wrench from my framer, he turned one of them partially open and the flame was considerably larger and hotter. Now I'm trying to fix the rest and am having a time budging them they are reamed down so much. My question is, would it be best to completely remove the orifice (if I can actually budge them) and reinstall and how tight is OK or too tight. I have Model VGRT360-4GSS Serial # TO 5250103677 Thanks for any help. I have to make do with this equipment until we do the major kitchen remodel and I can get my BS range top. Inga