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Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Posted by Marcelissen (My Page) on
Thu, Apr 11, 02 at 21:20

Hello, fellow Members Mark grill owners and prospective owners.

Due to the popularity for exchanging information on the Members Mark gas grill from Sams Club, we have managed to reach the maximum number of posting on yet another tread here in this forum. So, in hopes of keeping this topic alive I have started this new thread and included some links to much of our past information so it can still be found.

First however, I would like to give credit to Ladd Morse who got everything started back in November 1999 with his original posting. Since then, with the growing number of new owners of this great grill, we have managed to not only max out the numbers of postings on his original thread, but we have reached the maximum number of postings on a second tread as well.

Please continue our discussions in this thread....

To help preserve our past information I have posted links to some of our past threads, rather then trying to copy them all into a single posting here. Hopefully this could help out when looking up past information.

The following links are to past and current posting related to the $599 Members Mark gas grill from Sams Club.

The latest thread was started on Nov. 27, 2001 until Apr. 11, 2002 when it reached its 100-post limit. This thread contains several topics from cooking tips, cleaning, assembly, how to contact the manufacture, warranty issues, accessories available, NG conversion, using the rotisserie and inferred burned, and much more.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bbq/msg110900571851.html?100

The following thread mainly covers converting the Members Mark grill from LP to Natural Gas.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bbq/msg0822100824089.html?9

This is the original post from Ladd that started it all. Its 266 posting strong, before they started the 100-post limit on thread. Lots of good information on the earlier version of the grill when is was called Bakers & Chefs and on into the Members Mark series.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bbq/msg111721106463.html?266

This link was started by egkor who copied all the information from the original post listed above, plus over 40 new postings. Note that since egkor copied all 266 posting from the original thread into a single posting at the start of this thread, download time can take some time unless you have a fast connection.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bbq/msg09144256657.html?42

There are several other thread on the Members Mark grill in this forum as well, which also have some good information too. But the links listed above have been the most active over the years.

Happy grilling everyone, and lets keep the discussions going........

Tim


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I have been wanting to convert my Member's Mark Grill to natural gas for some time. This forum is just what I was looking for.

After reading (for a very long time) the past messages I decided to check the condition of my cast iron burners. I too seem to have a grill that is suffering from burners that have about 1/8 inch of rust scale on them. The grill is less than a year old.

Someone had suggested that they might be able to have a mold made up to cast some out of brass. How much would it cost to have the mold made? It looks like it would be a rather involved casting. I was thinking that if we got enough people to call the company, they might make some available.

Has anyone owned a grill with brass burners? Brass will corrode when exposed to salt. I am sure that is what is causing the rust on my burners.....all that Lawry's salt that drips off that chicken that I love so much. Maybe we need stainless burners? What about some hi-tech coating?

Thanks everyone for the excellent information.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Greetings
I recently purchased the Member's grille from Sam's.
It took about two hours to assemble the unit with no problems.
I would like to convert to NG.
I have checked around town at the gas appliance stores and appliance parts service center for advice in doing this.
It was suggested that I check with our utility supplier. They will convert the unit for me at a cost of $43 per half hour. They estimated that it would take less than 1 hour. I think that the drill bits required, would be at least that much. I will let you know how it turns out.
We cooked a rotisserie chicken today and it was perfect.
This was a good purchase decision.
Paul


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Glad to find these forums, just purchased a Members Mark grill (Y0101XC, $599.95)at Sam's Club based on the information I read in the several forums on this topic. (thanks!) Especially enjoyed the metal specialist comments on protecting the grill (no salting on grill)

I do have an observation related to one of the recurring issues I see here: High consumption of propane with this grill.

Went through this whole problem with a propane swimming pool heater (270,000 BTU per hour, 3 hours heating time, 3 gallons per hour to raise 25,000 gallon pool 2 degrees, groan$$$).

You can actually almost calculate your usage based on your cooking habits. i.e.

Propane properties are: approximately 91000 BTU Per Gallon, 4.24 LBS. Per Gallon of Liquid, so a 20 lb. tank would hold approximately 4.7 gallons of LP gas. Available BTU per tank 427,700. If the burner ratings listed in the forums are correct, 18,000 BTU main burners, a 12,000 BTU side burner, and a 10,000 BTU infrared burner) you could use them as guidelines how to better use the grill.

According to this if you were using every burner on high you would be using 76,000 BTU, giving you appx 5 1/2 hours of preheat/cooking time. However it seems from what I read here that most people only use back infrared for rotissery, main burners for steaks, chicken, but not all at once.

From my own past experience I have found that I usually had been lighting my (old) grill far too soon for preheating before meat was prepared and grill sitting there for 30 minutes heating because I got a phone call or some other distraction. I will not be doing that in the future $$$$.

Hope I didn't put you all to sleep with the statistics but knowing what you have to work with usually helps you use it better.

Thanks,
Stan

P.S. Most N.G. conversion tips here do have model numbers with them, however I have read one or two without.. for safety all these messages should contain model numbers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Michigan Propane Gas, Physical Properties of L.P.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Hi again from Bill in CT

Thanks for the comments on the Pizza on the grill. We just purchased a Pampered Chef baking stone and the instructions don't recommend using it on the grill (open flame), so I guess the pie has to stay in the oven.
I would also probably be interested in the brass burners, but I just checked mine, purchased the grill at Xmas, and they show very little rust flaking. If the cost is reasonable, and I know a larger quantity will spread the cost to make over more pieces.
I read some discussion about keeping the rotissery items close to the spit when grilling. Some time ago, I may have mentioned, I have a round cylinder type basket (4 inches in diameter and 18 inches long) with a side door that opens. You open the door, place your 'meat' in the basket, slide the spit through the end hole, through the 'meat', through the other end hole, center it to align with the IR burner, and tighten the thumb screws. Close the door, which has a latch, and you are ready to go. No tying needed.
I inherited this from my father, but have not seen one in stores. We cooked two pork loins in it and just let them flop around. They were moist and delicious. Large shrimp work a treat in it also.
If anyone happens to see one of these in a store, I would like to get a spare.
It is amazing how this forum 'attracts' so many people to buy this great grill.

Bill in CT


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I would definitely be interested in the brass burners


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Regarding cast iron burners,

Unless Bakers&Chef ever decides to make a new grill of the same style as the Y0101 I doubt we will ever get brass burners for our grills.

I am planning to do a little research and see if there is any chance of getting them plated (nickle, chrome, whatever), or aluminized. Which would protect them inside and out.. Should not be too expensive....If I find an inexpensive solution will post it here.

Stan


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Anyone think occasionally oiling (inside & out) burners and baking off in oven the same way you season cast iron skillets and grills would work??? Probably would have to make sure burner holes were clean after baking....
hummm


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Have my Grill 2 weeks. After reading all the messages about rusting burners, I decided to season mine before using. I am in the middle of the natural gas conversion and I noticed the burners have already begun to rust anyway.I do not believe anyone will be able to custom cast these burners out of brass for affordable price since they will need a 3 piece mold for the tubular section. As far as the natural gas conversion is concerned it is pretty easy. I would not mess with the natural gas line in my house, I am having a plumber do that. The tough part was finding wire gauge drill bits #44, #50, and #52(once found, they are very inexpensive at less than $1 each). Great grill for $599.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

If I were Baker's & Chef and I received enough calls requesting brass or stainless burners, I would consider making them. I am not talking 2 or 3 requests but hundreds. Some of their lower line grills do not come with the ceramic plates that go over the burners. They offer them as an upgrade.

As far as plating the burners....Salt is our enemy. Salt will attack nickle, aluminum, chrome, brass, copper CAST IRON and most other metals practical for this application with the exception of some good quality stainless steels. When you plate something, the actual coating is only a few thousands thick. With constant heating and cooling, I don't believe it will stand up. I own a set of $500.00 ceramicacoated (some type of aluminum/ceramic coating) headers for my street rod that were never suppose to rust. They did and I live in Califoria where we have moderate weather and no salt on the roads.

Porcelain coating may work but I have observed that the burners on my Kitchenaid stove has hairline cracks in their coating that has been caused buy constant heating and cooling. (when a base material is coated with a dissimilar material that is not elastic in nature (porcelain), the base and the coating expand and contract at different rates when exposed to hot and cold which will eventually lead to cracking. When you have cracks in the coating and salty liquid dripping on that coating, the base material will began to rust and the coating will flake off.

The point of my long dissertation....We (as a collective) should try to get the company to make us an upgraded set of burners or have someone or some company make a set for us.

StoneTower


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Natural Gas Conversion

Back by popular demand.....

Just my luck, my post on the last thread was #100, and maxed it out, so I'm posting it again on this new thread, hoping to head off some common email questions.

I continue to receive numerous emails inquiring about how to convert this grill from LP to NG. I think people are having trouble finding my original post from a year ago.

This is kinda long, so if you're not interested in converting, don't bother continuing to read.

It's been converted for a year now, and I'm very satisfied with the results.

Summary:
Actually converting the grill was the easiest part - about two hours. Running the NG line to the deck was the hardest and most expensive part. Since it takes so much more volume of NG to replace LP, the diameter sizes of the nozzles is not nearly as delicate/critical as it first appears. There is no standard SAE drill bit that will work good for the grill burners - too small or too big. Just get a numbered drill bit set. Other posters have also concluded that the following drill sizes seem to work pretty good, but check your gas pressure and use your own judgement. Once drilled out, you can't go back down in size without a lot of trouble. It only took about 15 minutes to remove/redrill/replace the nozzles.

Another common question: Why did I convert?
I converted because after I bought this grill, the amount of grilling I did virtually quadrupled. I make extensive use of the rotisserie too, which wasn't even a consideration when I bought it. I went from refilling the LP bottle 2 to 3 times/year to every 3 weeks. (I logged 4 hours on the rotisserie last weekend alone.) From what I can tell, the grill added about $5 to $8/month to my NG bill. The oven hasn't been used to roast/bake ANY meat since I bought the grill - not once, no bull.

Do I use the LP regulator after conversion?
No. The NG pressure should be regulated at the meter where it comes into the house. You connect the NG line directly to the manifold on the grill.

I'm using #49 or #50 for the main burners and it doesn't seem to get as hot as it used to. Can I open them up more?
Yes. Just keep opening them until you're satisfied with how quickly it heats up and how hot it gets.

Common question from both LP and NG users is: How fast should it heat up?
At 58 degrees outside temp, my grill heated up to a hood temp of 400+ in 10 minutes, with the grease on the cooking grates beginning to smoke. While mine is NG, it's still pretty close to what I had with LP, except it might be a little hotter after conversion to NG.

An update to drill sizes I evenutally used:
10k rotissorie #52 or 1/16" bit.
12k sideburner #51
18k mainburners #44

See my Tue, Apr 10, 01 at 12:25 post on:
Posted by: Dan (dannos@us.ibm.com) on Tue, Apr 10, 01 at 12:25
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bbq/msg111721106463.html?221

Well, I successfully got my B&C grill converted to natural gas.
The short version:
My grill: Baker & Chefs, model number Y0005XC-1, with 3 18,000 BTU main burners, a 12,000 BTU side burner, and a 10,000 BTU infrared burner.

Factory settings: The 3 main burners had a #55 orifice, the side burner had a #59 orifice, and the infrared burner had a #61orifice.

Gas pressure: I measured 8" WC with no appliances on in the house and the grill off. I measured 6" WC gas pressure with the 3 main burner valves on high and the infrared burner valve on. I had to run about 30 feet of 1/2" black iron pipe, and that was reduce to 1/4" for a quick disconnect fitting, and then an additional 15 feet of 3/8" high pressure hose from the quick disconnect to the grill.

I ended up with a #47 for the main burner, #51 for the side burner, and #53 for the infrared burner.

Drilling the orifices out to the chart from http://www.grillparts.com/howto/btu_guide.htm made my grill run too cool. I believe the chart to be accurate, but there are other factors in play. Drilling the 3 main burners out with a #47 bit, 0.0785", (5/64", 0.78125, would virtually be the same) worked reasonably well for main burners, the side burner was drilled out with a #51 (.067) which turned out to be better than factory, and the infrared was drilled out with a #53 (.0595). I may go up one size for the main burners and infrared burner, but I'll have to use the grill for a while before I do that.

Results:
The infrared is a little cooler than factory, which is what I wanted. The next size up is 1/16" if the #53 turns out to be too cool, but I don't think it will be. On low, the main burners are so low that they'll probably blow out in moderately windy conditions. On high, the main burners are at least as hot has factory. For the side burner, the low setting is lower than factory, but on high, the flame is bigger than factory, almost to the point of being excessive, I definitely wouldn't use anything larger than 1/16" bit for the side burner or the infrared. I happen to like it this way, because I use the side burner for a butter/garlic sauce for basting, which requires very low heat.

The long version:
Like most people, I've never done this kind of conversion before, and I'm a little nervous about screwing up my new $600 grill, so I proceeded cautiously. This part may get a little long, because I'm an engineer by trade, and I can't help myself.

I didn't have a way to actually measure the gas pressure, so I called the gas company and asked them what my house pressure should be. The 1st time I called, they said it was 11" WC. I told them that couldn't be, because that's LP pressure. Then they retracted and said it was 9" WC, which isn't even on the grillparts.com chart. So, I called again, hoping to get someone else. This time they said it was 7" WC. I accepted this, thinking maybe they misread a 9 for a 7 on the 1st call.

I had received my 115 pc drill bit set from http://shop.store.yahoo.com/prime-supply/index.html for $38, so I had the numbered bits called out in the chart. I drilled the orifices per the chart, #50 bit for the main burners, #53 bit for the side burner, and #54 for the infrared. Well, the infrared burner wouldn't stay lit, and the main burners looked like they were running at about 2/3 throttle. Well, this meant that either I didn't have 7" WC gas pressure, the chart was inaccurate, the gas line I ran out to the deck couldn't supply enough gas, there were other factors in play I hadn't considered yet, or a combination of all of these. 1st, I had to eliminate the question of gas pressure. I made a water column measure (also called a manometer, which I've used before in my job), to measure the gas pressure. I have since found a web site that shows how to construct a cheap, but effective water column measure. I've included it at the end of the post. I just happened to have some clear pvc hose left over from a home-made water from when I built my deck, and it fit perfectly over the side burner nozzle. With no burners on, I indeed had 8" WC gas pressure. With one burner on high, I had 7" WC. With all 3 main burners on high, and the infrared burner on, I had 6" WC. Even after drilling the orifices out wider, the pressure never dropped below 6" WC, so I know I didn't have a problem supplying enough gas to the grill. Since I have no way of measuring BTU output, I wasn't able to verify the accuracy of the grillparts.com orifice chart. However, I believe the chart to be accurate. It is simply stating that, under controlled conditions, 7" WC NG pressure will produce 18,000 BTU's with a #50 orifice. But the temperature of the valves and orifices change dramatically as the grill heats up, metal expands, and very small changes in conditions can produce big changes in BTU output. After all, from 3" WC to 7" WC, which is more than twice the pressure, the nozzle opening only changes from a #45 bit to a #50 bit, a change of only .012 inches. From a #50 bit to #47, which is what I changed to was only .006 inches. There's only .001 inch difference between a #59 and #60 bit. Chucking up a very small bit into my Makita and drilling a hole by hand probably has a tolerance of +/- .005 inches. The unknown factor that came into play, I believe are the valves themselves. They are designed for delivering LP, not NG. I believe NG is a much more dense gas, so that's why it runs at about 1/2 the pressure of LP. It also explains why, for a given equivalent nozzle diameter, the low setting is lower for NG than LP, almost to the point the burner goes out, but on the high setting, the flame is as hot, if not actually hotter, than LP. So, from what I've learned, the trick is to find a size such that on low, the burner doesn't go out, but on high, you don't have a meltdown in your grill. I also noticed that as the grill became very hot (400-450 degrees) the main burners weren't as high as they were when the grill was cold. I always thought this was due to the LP bottle frosting up, but now I think a lot of it has to do with the valves getting hot and metal expansion. At an outside temperature of 45 degrees, and a little wind, the grill quickly heated up to 400 (4 or 5 minutes), but struggled to get to 500 (about 10 minutes). These times and temperatures are very close to what I got with factory settings and LP, so I'm confident I'm about as close as I can get.

Accessing the orifice nozzles:
For the side and 3 main burners, simply remove the burners, and unscrew the nozzles - a 10 minute job.

For the infrared burner, I was able to remove one of the screws holding spider screen in place from underneath the cast iron housing at the back of the grill, carefully bend the screen out of my way, and use a small wrench to unscrew the nozzle. I have small hands, so others may have to remove the hood, the heat deflector plate covering the cast iron housing for the infrared burner, and the remove both the top and bottom screws to the spider screen and remove the screen entirely for easier access.

How to construct a water column measure (manometer):
http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/manometer.html

Where I bought the numbered drill bit set ($38 shipped):
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/prime-supply/index.html

Orifice size/BTU drill chart:
http://www.grillparts.com/howto/btu_guide.htm

Happy grilling.....


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Just the FAQ's............

The new Member's Mark grill at Sam's Club ($599) is essentially the same as the previous Baker's & Chef's grill ($599), with a different hood, different IR burner, and few other minor changes.

My burners are rusting!!!!!
Get used to it. Nothing's going to stop it, and all brands rust. It's a very nasty environment for any metal. Do what you can to keep salt from getting on them when you season the meat. The salt does more damage than anything else. Mine are a year old with plenty of life left, and I make extensive use of the grill, and next to living by an ocean, I live in one of the worst parts of the country for rust (Minnesota). Take 'em out occasionally, scrap the big flakes off, lightly tap on them to get the stuff out of the inside of the burner, use a stiff wire brush to clean the holes. They're cheap enough and easy to clean and change. Brass would be nice though....

With LP or NG, it should heat up to a hood temp of 400+ degrees in 10-13 minutes. If it doesn't, you may have a problem with your regulator or tank (LP users).

If you have cermaic flame tamers, flip them over occassionally to burn off the crud. Even though one side has recesses around the holes, there is no 'right' side to have up.

Pure economics: Buy a 2nd set of tines for the rotisserie. You can cook two smaller chickens, two roasts, etc., for the price of one (from a gas consumption standpoint). For less than $6, I get the bag of two chickens at Sam's, one for the meal, and one for leftovers for our lunches. If you can get it to fit in front of the IR burner, it'll cook just fine.

I've cooked a 13lb and a 16lb whole turkey on the rotisserie. For the 16lb bird, I had to remove the flame tamers and the wire frame that held them to get it to fit, but it turned out fine. Yes, it was closer to the IR burner than normal and I carefully turned it down a bit, yes the spit rod sagged, no the motor had no trouble turning it, yes it was delicious. (Never had people fight over the skin from a turkey before...crispy and probably the best part.)

Quick, delicious, cheap...
$1.99/lb chuck roast. Get an injector kit and inject it with Cajun Creole Garic, liberally sprinkle it with Cajun seasoning (both avaialbe at Menards), put in on the rotisserie for about 2 hours - 160 degress in the thick part will yield slightly pink. Chuck roast isn't round, so the ends that are closer to the IR burner will be extra crispy and spicey. I get my chuck roasts at Sam's - there's two in a package and I cook 'em both at the same time. Try the cajun seasoning on pork chops on the grill - it's great, but go easy on the Cajun seasoning cuz chops are a lot thinner than chuck roasts.

Baby back ribs the ez way:
Skewer them on the spit accordian-style, raw and uncooked. Don't turn the motor on, and cook one side over the main burners for about 20-25 minutes (not so hot that you get a fire), rotate and cook the other side for 20-25 minutes, turn the 3 main burners off, put an aluminum catch pan under the ribs, turn the rotisserie motor on, and the IR burner on. Brush on one thick coat of Famous Dave's bar-b-que sauce, let it spin in front of the IR burner for 10 minutes or so (until the sauce gets thick and pasty, but not burned). Slice 'n serve. Be sure you keep you're hands clear when the dog fight over the ribs start....(tougher to grill when you don't have all you're fingers). You might've guess this by now, but I get both the ribs and Famous Dave's at Sam's.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Bill M.,

Try this link, I think this is what you are looking for.

http://www.grillingaccessories.com/ro.asp


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

As has been the case with many before me, based on this forum I have just this past week purchased my Sam's Club Memeber's Mark GAS Grill Model Y0101XC. I too plan to covert to NG. Have read many conversion messages and it is still not clear to me as to the connection setup. Is the Regulator required? How do you connect or get this quick connect set up with the 12-15 feet of flex hose to use. Does any one have some pictures they can post. A picture is worth a thousand words. I plan to add the shelf that was provided on this forum along with pictures. Thank you for all the insight to a great value.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

No regulator required. Have a plumber run your lines to the outside. A gas or hose supply store will make this hose up for you, they may need a few days because most do not carry in house quick disconnects.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Don't want to rain on anyone's parade, however......

Natural Gas conversions are an excellent avenue to pursue for economy and convenience but in my opinion (not fact), if you do not install a regulator and size orfices to regulator pressure and have a large enough pipe to connect your grill to, you will not have enough heat when it comes winter and the furnace is running when you try to cook.

A 1/2" black iron pipe will only supply a specified amount of BTU at a given pressure, 3/4" pipe more....

Where you connect your grill to the N.G. makes a difference.

AGE:51
Heating, air, and refrigeration as a career.

Talk to your local gas company first.....

Stan


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Stan,

Good information, I am actually having a plumbing company do my conversion. They say they do this all the time. They drill out the orifices to the specified sizes, but do not use any regulator. Also I converted my Jenn Air range top with Jenn Air instructions from LP to NG. All Jenn Air did was ship me different orifices to install. I did not change the regulator( I am not sure if it even has one)?

Last question - isn't the volume of natural gas so large that there should be very little variance in the pressure if the furnace is running versus not running.

I am interested in what you have to say, I do want to burn my house down.

39 and clueless


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thank you, everyone who responded. However, I still have some concerns regarding the different model number. Is it any more diffcult? Has anyone converted this model? Has their construction changed to prevent making this conversion difficult compared to the previous model? I basicly have the grill together and I'm determining how to get to the orfices for the main and back burners and it appears that I have to dismantle the unit almost totally, was that the case with the other model as well?


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thanks, to all you wild and crazy Member's Mark Gas Grillers. Your words have gotten me fired up to take the plunge and get that Big Boy, ($599).

I only have one question. Has anyone had a problem with the plastic control knobs coming off or loosening? I noticed at the store that on the floor model most of the knobs were stripped.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

bdglow & powerwash,

My house is all NG. I was concerned about having a feed problem with the furnace, water heater, dryer, and stove running while grilling in the winter. At outside temp of 10 below zero, furnace, water heater, oven (no burners on), and dryer running on the hottest setting, I didn't have any problem. From the 1 1/4" main feed in the basement, I ran about 30 feet of 1/2" black pipe to the deck, then reduced down to 3/8" to a quick disconnect, then 15 feet of rubber hose to the grill.

The only thing I've noticed is that when the main burner on the furnace kicks in, I can see a pressure 'bounce' at the grill. The flame drops a little for 1-2 seconds as the pressure in the line comes back up. The meter/regulator is at the opposite end of the house, and it takes a second or two for the pressure way out on the deck to hit equilibrium. It should be noted that the feed to the furnace is only about two feet away from the feed to the deck.

It does struggle when I have all 3 burners on hi, the side burner on hi, and the infrared burner on (an unrealistic situation anyway). The flame on the 3 main burners is down about 20 percent under these conditions. Probably a combination of inadequate feed and the restriction at the quick disconnect. Other than that, it heats up as fast, maybe even a little faster than it did on LP.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

cruisemaster,

Mine is the older model, but this is how mine came out:

Main burners:
After I took the 3 main burners out, I could sneak a wrench up from below, and loosen the nozzle. Then I could reach in with my fingers from the burner compartment and spin them out.

Infrared burner:
You can take it all apart, or if you have small hands like me and it's like my grill...
Take the spider screen off, use a needlenoze pliers, reach up and loosen the nozzle. Now you, or someone else with small hands, reach up and spin the nozzle off, using the index finger from each hand. Not real easy, but it can be done.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

HELP

Because of all of the positive comments I recently purchased a Member's Mark Y0101XC. I decided I would try the rotisserie and things have not gone well. First of all the cord from the motor is only about 12 inches long. I guess that's not a big problem if you don't mind using extension cords. Secondly, I couldn't get the infrared back burner to ignite. There obviously was no obstruction in the gas line because I did get it to ignite using a lighter. Has anyone had this problem. What am I doing wrong?


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I would like to try a rotiserie turkey for the first time. anybody have any hints to give me. also it's a 13lb. bird. Is that o.k.

p.s. I have never used the rotiserie burner before.

Thank you


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

cooz,

I've done a 13lb and 18lb whole turkey on the rotisserie. Takes about 3.5 - 4 hours, but both turned out great. The rod sagged and I had to take the ceramic plates and the wire rack that holds them out to get it to fit. The motor seemed to handle it fine. Just take a little time to try to balance the bird on the rod as best as you can.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

> I couldn't get the infrared back burner to ignite

This happens to me occasionally also. Try reducing the gap between the ends of the two igniter electrodes. Using your fingers, gently squeeze the wires at the outer tips so the tips move (and stay) closer together.

BTW: reducing the gap between the main burner igniter electrodes also helps if you are having problems with ignition there.

------------------------------------------------------

> I would like to try a rotiserie turkey for the first time.
> anybody have any hints to give me. also it's a 13lb. bird

That's a lot of weight for the spit; you'll find that it will bend a lot. At least the spit that came with my grill purchased last summer does so. Probably not a problem every once in a while; it may or may not be a good idea for the spit and/or the motor to do it regularly.

I cook two 5-pound chickens regularly and the spit deflection is minimal. Partly because there is less weight than your proposed 13 pound turkey, mostly because the weight is spread out further linearly.

To make room for the drip pan (I use an old cookie sheet), you'll need to remove the cooking grates and set the drip pan directly onto the ceramic flame tamers and their support grid.

Be sure to use a meat thermometer to check for doneness and enjoy your bird! :-)


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Infrared burner won't lite

McCoffee,

The ignition electrodes probably just need a little adjustment. Also, if it's breezy, try shutting the lid for a few seconds while you're trying to ignite it.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I would like to try a rotiserie turkey for the first time. anybody have any hints to give me. also it's a 13lb. bird. Is that o.k.
p.s. I have never used the rotiserie burner before

Thank you for the replies. Ant hints on how to marinade.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Has anyone thought of using compressor hose and compressor quick connect fittings for the NG conversion? The connectors come in 2 sizes (1/4 in pipe thread and 3/8 in pipe thread). You can get 2 50' pieces of yellow hose at Sams rated to 300+ psi for $15. NG runs at less than 5psi (I think around 2psi).

For those of you looking for a real NG hose and quick connect, Home Depo has the set for about $35. Personally I need a hose longer than 12'...maybe 25 foot.

My reason for wanting to use the compressor hose I that I want to convert my turkey/fish fryer to NG and don't want to buy 2 $35 hoses.

Anyone in the know...please let me know what you think of this compressor hose idea.

Thanks

StoneTower


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

> please let me know what you think of this compressor hose idea

I'm not sufficiently experienced with air compressor technology, or natural gas technology for that matter, but my first thought is that a leak in a compressed air system is merely irritating; a leak in a natural gas situation could be fatal.

With human nature and human engineers as they are, one would suspect that significantly more resources are employed in the design and construction of a gas line system than an air system.

Or they could be identical; what do I know? I guess it boils down to a cost/reward situation. Is the money you save using a compressed air setup worth the consequences of the risk?


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I have looked through the various Member's Mark postings;
and haven't seen a lot of discussion about how well this
grill performs on windy days ... so I thought I would
start a new thread about it (I'll also cross-post as
a seperate message - BTW, is there a way to "link" these?)

BBQ'ing here in Colorado the other day on a 60 degree
sunny day ... but winds gusting to maybe 30 MPH ... even
with all three burners on HIGH, they blew out on me a
couple of times ... and I finally had to finish the
grilling inside.

Wind direction was directly toward the front of the grill;
and I can't really move this (see URL/pictures below) ...
so am I at the wind limit of the grill and/or is there
anything folks have done to improve things?

Thanx,
alek

P.S. Picture of grill (with EASY shelving idea) at:
http://www.komar.org/bbq


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Member's Mark Gas Grill

I am thinking seriously of buying one --soon! At our local Sam's club they have them assembled or in the box for the same price. Which would you recommend? I am very handy, and sometimes I know the store people may not take the proper care when assembling things.

ALso-
I have read that some parts can be hard to find. Is this so? e.g., if the burners rust out in a year or 2 where can I get them.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Alek,

I grill on some windy days too, but never had a problem with the wind blowing out the main burners, but the wind has taken out the side burner a couple times. I can move the grill around some on my deck, so if I see a problem when using the side burner I can turn the grill some to use the main part of the grill to help block the wind.

What about trying to block off some of the vents on the lower cabinet on the sides and back. This may help keep the wind from coming in under the grill...

By the way, nice web site...

Tim


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Joe,
I would recommend assembling the grill your self. And since you said you were "handy" this should not be a problem. In fact, the instructions that come with the grill and the way they have everything packaged and labeled it's an easy job. It took me about 1-1/2 to 2 hours, but I made sure I cleaned everything along the way. There is some protective coatings on some of the stainless steel that you need to make sure you get off as well a cleaning it good so it will not discolor when you use your grill. Also you get to see how everything goes together in case you every have any problems in the future you may have an idea what to look for. When you get ready to set the lower bowl into the frame, you may want to get someone to help you lift it in, it's heavy.

I seen someone at Sam's one time buying one assembled and there were four people lifting this grill into the back of a pickup. You need to lift it by its frame, don't try lifting it using the side shelves they will bend. Trying to handle a couple boxes is easier, but the main box is heavy and you will need two strong people to lift it in and out of your vehicle.

As for parts, you can contact the manufacture (Grand Hall) directly. They have been in business for years and make their own like of high-end grills (Grand Gafe) as well as the high-end Kenmore grills for Sears. From the ones that have posted as well as myself who have contacted then, I heard nothing but good comments and great service from them.

Tim


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thankyou for the help. I purchased my MM grill this evening. I'll assemble it tomorrow. Then on to the barbeque!


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Hi Grillsters, Bill in CT here;
I have read alot here on NG conversion but not much on extending the LP to the grill. When I had my tanks moved last year, I ran my own 3/4 " pipe throughout the cellar for the stove, dryer, and grill stub. Since the stove and the dryer rely on the regulator on the tank, should I keep the regulator at the grill or remove it?
I had the same problem with the IR burner that McCoffee had and a slight adjustment of the electrodes did the trick. BTW don't adjust and press the button at the same time. 'It curls your hair.' Cooked some large shrimp and two large salmon fillets the other night and they were delish.

Bill


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

> I had the same problem with the IR burner that McCoffee had and a slight adjustment of the electrodes did the trick.
> BTW don't adjust and press the button at the same time. 'It curls your hair.'

Good advice - perfectly underscoring the axiom that something isn't common sense unless you've heard (or experienced) it before! :-)

I must admit it never occured to me to mention that little tidbit when I offered the tip about adjusting the electrodes. Of course, I also haven't said "when lighing the burners, don't turn all the burners on high and keep the lid closed for five minutes before hitting the Ignite button", but ya gotta start somewhere! :-)

Regards,
Ladd


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

My Member's Mark Gas Grill was assembled by my less than enthusiastic teenage sons. Neither is fond of reading directions and this was a "first" for both of them. I, personally, don't do grill assembly either!

Well....the grill has never lived up to it's rave reviews and I believe the assembly is probably at fault. It whistles alarmingly and does not heat evenly. The further from the tank, the cooler the burners are.

I'm ready to call in a grill service....I just hope they exist! Are there people who specialize in servicing Members Mark Grills? I am so looking forward to having full and frequent use of this grill.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Barbara,
What you are describing sounds familiar to the problems others were having with their grills. It doesn't appear to be an assembly problem, but rather a characteristic of the cooker and the new propane tanks. The whine has been described in past postings. While a cause has not been identified, some users feel it is a whistling caused by the propane rushing through the regulator when all burners are on high. Some have called customer service at Grand Hall and received a new regulator. It's a 50/50 chance this helps. Other users just live with it.
Concerning the decreasing heat at the burners there are a few fixes for this also. First when you turn on your propane bottle turn it verrrrrry slowly. The new tanks have an overfill device inside them. It is a floating pendulum that shuts off the flow of propane at a certain level. The theory behind slow opening is you don't cause a sudden release of gas that could trip the device. Also when lighting the burners, always start with the one furthest from your tank. Hope this helps.
TA


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

TA,
I don't have the whistling noise but I can't seem to get the grill over 400 degrees as measured by the hood temp gauge. I have been turning the knob on the tank open very slowly and starting the far right burner first. Are there any other suggestions you can offer? I've read that others have gotten their grills up to 600.

Many messages ago, someone suggested getting a Stainless Steel Brush for cleaning the grates. I've looked and can't find any that say stainless steel, I have found a steel brush in the paint dept. for paint stripping. Can anyone give more details on the brush they were talking about?

Love this forum. Thanks for all the great ideas.
Ivan


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I thought there was a way around these issues. My sons are happy the faulty assembly charges dropped. Thanks so much for the tips TA. I'm trying them out tonight!

Can you or someone please clairfy "opening the propane bottle slowly"? About how is slow? A minute or two slow? And...do I wait until the propane is fully open before trying to light the far right burner? I am a s-l-o-w learner here. My specialty is what is put on the grill, not the grill.

Ivan, I've never gotten mine above 400 either....I'm watching for the response to that one too.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

To everyone with the grills not getting to hot enough. I had the same problem,I found that my temperature gauge was actually getting stuck at 400F. Try tapping it and put an oven themometer in you grill to verify the temperature.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Ivan and Barbara,
"bdglow" brings up a possible cause for temperature issues. I personally have been lucky with my cooker, No whistling and temperatures well into 500+. Only other possible cause I could think of is a restriction in regulator. Maybe a call to Customer Service. Call 1-800-770-9769, Monday through Friday 8am to 4:30pm CST. Have not called them myself but all previous posts have nothing but glowing comments about them and response to issues.

Concerning grill cleanup. DO NOT USE METAL BRUSHES! This leaves metal flakes imbeded in the stainless which in turn causes rust. I bought a brush from the grilling section at Lowes this past Saturday. It is made of very tough polyester fibers. Feels almost like a steel wool pad. I used it Saturday night and it works great. Best thing is once it's grimy I threw it into the dish washer and it came out like brand new. It is not labeled as a Stainless Steel grill brush so I had been passing over it for a month waiting for one labeled for stainless to show up. Luckily I saw a picture of one next to a dispenser of stainless steel cleaner and it clicked. I want to say I saw this in the accesories brochure that came with my grill. Anyway, it is black, about 4" wide and 6" long. Has a handle on top the whole length of brush. Black poly fibers on scrubbing surface.

How slow is slow? Just crack valve to open then turn with a continuous motion to complete. Whole process lasts 2-4 seconds. Hope this helps.
TA


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Grill cleaning brush

This is a site that has a photo of the brush I referred to above. Scroll down to item 71448.
TA

Here is a link that might be useful: Grill brush


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thanks TA! I tried the slow approach and started lighting from the right and voila! All burners hot--that's a first! I noticed it only got up to 400 and hovered there with the 3 burners on high for 10 minutes. Dinner was great anyway! Later, I left it on for about 30 minutes without lifting the lid and it did reach 500-525.

Now, if I can get the darn whistle out, I will be a truly happy camper. I will give the service people a call.

I am so glad I came here to ask instead of spending $$$ to have a service person come out.


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Grill Brush-Stainless

If you check your local Home Depot or Lowes, you can find a very cheap and very good stainless steel grill brush in the paint section. Look for wire brushes. Not all but most of the Home Depots have a heavy duty one for about $3. It works well and lasts a long time. The stainless wires are mounted into wood and do not come out when they heat up.

Happy Grilling
Bill


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

RE: Stainless Steel Brush

I got mine at Lowe's in the BBQ department. It's two-headed, has stainless steel bristles on one side and the super-scrubbie on the other. About $6.

I followed the advice of other posters for cleaning the cooking grids and it works fine. After you pull everything off the grill, dip the brush in some water, shake once to get the excess out, then hit the hot grids with it. Between the scrubbing action of the brush then the nylon scrubbie and the steam from the water, the grates will come quite clean.

Every now and then I turn the grates over to cook so I can easily clean the bottom.

------------------------------------------

RW: Humming or Whistling Regulator

I get that every now and then when I change propane bottles. It has always been solved by partially unscrewing the regulator on the tank until it stops humming and then re-tightening it. Sometimes I loosen it enough that the tank's internal leak-detection valve slams shut; then you have to turn off the tank to reset the valve. Your mileage may vary, but this has always worked for me.

Regards,
Ladd


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Propane Bottle Scale

There is a Member's Mark propane "scale" on Ebay if anyone is interested.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thanks Ladd for the very simple and "Why didn't I think of that?" suggestion of Turning the grids over and cooking on the bottom sides once in a while. This is the first time I have a grid that doesn't have the cross bars and so it is the same on both sides. Duh!

On the heat issue; I picked up an oven thermometer and placed it on top of the grids. The temps. were very different from the Thermometer in the top of the hood. The hood would only get up to 400, but the one on the grid climbed to 500. I have only done it once and I am still running tests so I will let you know the results.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Hi all, Looking for a little help, as most of you, Im'pretty fussy about finding the right grill. All this talk about the Members Mark grill has me excited that this may be the one for me. One problem... I live about 250 miles from the nearest Sam's Club. Before I drive all the way out there, does someone have a complete list of all the specs on this grill? Size, components, BTU's, warranty, etc.?

It sounds great, and with a forum like this, I'm sure the is an answer for just about any question. ( and that is usually better than any local dealer) So If anyone cares to help outI would be much obliged.


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RE: Propane Bottle Scale

BTW, if anyone with the older model is interested in the
Propane Bottle Scale, I'd be willing to swap mine for a
vegetable warming rack plus $5 toward shipping.

I bought my grill about 2 months ago and it works fine;
I just have two propane tanks and am thinking of
converting to Natural Gas anyway. You can see it at:
http://www.komar.org/bbq/

Thanx ... and I hope folks don't mind the for-sale/exchange,
alek


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

For PatioDadio: Grill information!!! This can be purchased online with your Sams membership and delivered to you! Check it out at Samsclub.com
Stainless Steel Gourmet BBQ Grill $599.98
Create an infinite variety of culinary favorites with this revolutionary outdoor cooking system. Updated stainless steel design includes fuel gauge, push-button electronic ignition system, side burner, infrared back burner, ceramic flame tamers and stainless steel cooking grids.

Item: 657602

Features:
This state-of-the-art cooking system has 8 cooking methods for all your gourmet needs: Grilling, Deep Frying, Roasting, Baking, Pan Frying, Poaching, Steaming, Smoking.
Easy to operate, this versatile gourmet BBQ gas grill helps unleash the gourmet chef in you
Extensive cooking options let you prepare an entire gourmet meal, including appetizers, entrees, side dishes and deserts
Includes rotisserie for preparing delicious pork, poultry and game
Built in spice shelf keeps all your spices, sauces and condiments organized & handy for cooking
New electronic ignition system gives you quick and easy startup with the simple touch of a button
Side burner with individual control for preparing sauces and side dishes
Also features new fuel gauge to help take the guess work out of cooking

Product Specifications:3 Cast-iron burners - 54,000 BTU
Push-button electronic ignition
3 Stainless steel tube cooking grids
3 Ceramic flame tamers with stainless steel support
Electronic fuel gauge
612 sq. inch total cooking area
10,000 BTU infrared back burner
12,000 BTU side burner
Stainless steel grill lid, control panel and handle
Enclosed cabinet with stainless streel doors
Stainless steel side shelves
Uses LP gas only - cannot be converted to natural gas
250 lb total grill weight
Grill measures: 64" L x 26" W x 48" H

Warranty:This product is covered by the SAM'S CLUB Member Satisfaction Guarantee.

Good Luck and enjoy!!:) Denise


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

After drooling over the Member's Mark gas grill at Sam's for over a year, I finally bit the bullet and bought one last week. I had to do some creative selling of this expense to the wife but after showing her how many times I had rebuilt the other gas grill we had she agreed that this was what WE needed. After reading every posting on this and past sites, I had a real easy time assembling the grill. I do agree that the instructions were the easiest I've ever seen. All parts were in great shape and well packaged and labeled. Actually the hardest part was unloading the boxes from my truck and getting them to my patio. Removing the grill lid was VERY good advice because it made the installation of the main grill much more manageable. I did forget to leave the screws a little loose on the legs in step 2 so the grill wouldn't drop in. I loosened them a little, dropped the grill in and retightened the legs. This was a minor disruption in this 2 hour process. Everything worked perfectly right off the bat. I have temps above 500 degrees and no whistle. I bought stainless steel cleaner and the brush from Home Depot and everything looks great.I have used this grill everday since I assembled it and what a pleasure it is. I want to thank everyone for your postings.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Well, I finally installed the Members Mark grill I purchased six months ago. You see, I was gonna brick it in and convert it to natural gas. Well I ran the gas line to the patio some 110 ft of 1/2"OD copper tubing with a 3/8" valve at the end. I drilled the main burners with a 5/64" drill and the sideburners/rotisserie with 1/16". I wasn't barely getting a flame on high with the main burners. I suspected that the quick connect hose after the valve to the burner was the problem. I was barely getting gas flow. I removed it and rigged up a 3ft long 3/8" copper run between the valve and the inlet of the grill. Now the main burners were working and good flames were coming out. So I timed it, and to my dismay, it took 16mins and the temp maxed out at 380 deg f with all three burners on high. What can I do to get more heat from the natural gas line? thanks.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Waypoint....I am not sure about where you live but in Northern California using Copper tubing for gas line is against building code. You should not use galvanized either as the coating can sometimes flake off and plug small orifices. You should use black iron pipe and use an approved thread sealent rated for Natural Gas. The gas company in my area uses SPECIAL plastic pipe up to the meter but after that point it is against code to use plastic.

Even if copper is legal in your area, 1/2 inch is way too small for a grill of this size with a pipe run that long. 3/4 inch would be a much better choice. If you have other large gas appliances you may even need 1 inch.

If you install your own black pipe, you should pressure test it for 24 hours. You will need a pressue guage with a tirevalve fitting. You can buy these at Home Depot or make one out of parts. You use a compressor to pump up the sealed (on both ends) gas line to 24 psi and make sure it holds pressure for 24 hours.

Good Luck.

StoneTower


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Starting my third year as a B&C owner. I could propably write for a week on the satisfaction, things cooked, and admiring comments I've received. I don't grill in the winter (it's just a cold weather (Northern NY), eating inside, mind thing), but when the weather gets nice, the pool gets opened, it's a 5-6 night a week deal. Like I said, I could go on forever with the menu's every kind of fish, shellfish, veggies, meat, roasts, game, fruit, pizza, eggs, french toast, on and on and on...OH yeah..I even did hot dogs and hamburgers...

BILL in CT: Pizza is the BEST. I can't make enough. Two ways. One - I let the dough raise, then cut off little pieces and shape into flat irregular shapes (about the size of my opened hand) I set them aside on a oiled cookie sheet. Prepare my toppings (no limits) usually I just go with fresh tomato and basil some mozzarella. Fire up the grill and coat the grates with olive oil. I use the 'misto' sprayer. Set the burners to low, when they got hot, toss the flat dough pieces right on the grates. Close lid and check every few minutes. they'll brown on the bottom, spray tops with olive oil, turn over. Once you turn over, place your toppings on. Close lid and again check for the 'new' bottom to brown. Take off and serve.
The other way - Purchase the Cast iron pan with lid. (I use this for sausage w/peppers and onions, morning home fries, cakes, and PIZZA)
Coat the bottom with olive oil, press out one to two pounds of dough to fit in the pan let raise slightly, top with your pizza sauce (sorry, special family recipe). Remove one of the cooking grates from the grill. The pan fits right in the space. Cook covered for about 15 minutes - keep checking - It will grow and get good and light, and grated mozzarella cheese, cook uncovered till melts.

Sorry if I went to far here, by the way yes my burners are rusted, but no sign of damage after 2 years, took it out this weekend for the Annual Mothers Day 1st BBQ of the Year Event. Fired right up.

Thanks to Ladd and everyone for your unbelievable time and effort put into keeping this going.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I was surprised when I read he used copper also.
Black pipe in Michigan.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Actually, in Texas, using copper tubing is perfectly fine. I ran 1/2" copper tubing. the problem was the quick disconnect hose. It was causing a major restriction. I nixed the quick disconnect hose and ran the flex gas dryer line and everything now works great. I ran all three burner and maxed out at 525 deg F in 10-12 mins. Is this normal?


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Well I finally got my Sam's Grill Y0101xc going and it works great. I have owned 5 or 6 gas grills in the past and none have even come close to the grill. When I turned it on it easily went to 500 degrees plus within 10 minutes and seared my steaks with on problems at all. There customer support is also first class, my grill was missing the cabinet door bracket and the wind guard was scratch. One phone call and the parts were shipped to me and receive in about 6 days. Thats the best phone support of any kind that I have seen. I have been running for about a week now and have done ribs, chicken, Hambuger, hotdogs and am looking forward to trying the rotiserie. Also the cover was damaged out of the box, but I called there customer support and one arrived in 3 days. Now for the only complaint that I have so far, the grill cover supplied is very cheap and rips very easy as well as leaving white lint all over the grill. I went to home depot and bought a new cover that is all vinyl the same as the one I had for my old grill that has lasted for 3 years. It is heavier much better made and only cost $20.00. Get the 68" one it gives a little more room. well goota go and marinate a flank steak for dinner tomorro. later and happy grilling

Lou


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Waypoint...if copper meets code and 1/2 inch works thats good. You may want to install a gas shut off valve at the end of your copper line before your flex gas dryer line. Those flex lines are designed to be bent once. They will crack if you keep moving them and if you get a leak it could make the NG conversion very expensive. Even a small leak over time can use lots of gas. Remember we are not talking about 20 pounds of LP anymore.

I am glad it worked out for you.

StoneTower


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Hi from Bill in CT. to all my MM grilling friends.
Thank you The Grill Man for the Pizza recipes. I haven't bought the center insert pan yet. We have been trying to find one in our travels around the stores, but always forget to take the dimentions where it needs to fit. Probably should 'bit the bullet' and get the cast one. Do you order that direct from MM or does Sam's stock them?
Till next time, happy grilling. We grill at least 5 days a week.


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Accessories

Bill M,

I've not seen any of the accessories available for the Member's Mark grills for sale at Sam's. I think you will need to order then directly from the manufacture, Grand Hall (1-800-770-9769, M-F between 8am - 4:30pm CST), that is what I did. Had my order in less that a week too.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Just bought a Member's Mark Stainless Gas Grill yesterday at Sam's club and assembled last night. Had a couple of questions and did a search on "Member's Mark" hoping to find the company web-site and came across this forum. What a great site. Hopefully someone here can help!

First though I must say that I've owned and assembled numerous gas grills over the years and have so far been very impressed with the quality of workmanship on this one. Hopefully I'll be equally impressed with the results after have a chance to use it for a while.

Question number 1.... I've never owned a grille a back burner ("infra-red burner"). Logic would dictate that it's use is primarily for rotisserie cooking but there is nothing in the instructions on that. Instructions on the grille state that it is not to be used when regular burners are in use but in an earlier note on this site one member shared that he cooked a turkey using both this burner and one regular burner. Could someone elaborate?

Question number 2...The model number on the one I bought ($599 at Sam's Club) is Y0101XC yet none of the accessories listed in the insert with the grille list this model number. Not sure if it's an update of an earlier model and plan on calling the customer service number sometime next week but thought someone here might know.

Any thoughts or assistance would be appreciated.

Rick


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thank you all, and especially dannos, for the conversion information.. I have an older Bakers and Chefs grill I bought two years ago..floor model that cost me $399.. (which, by the way, still works perfectly). The only problem I have had is to replace the LP regulator since they now make us use "safety" LP tank hardware in California. The one that came with the unit wouldn't work with the new tank hardware..
I'm planning on buying a numbered drill set today and attempting a ng conversion. I only have to run the ng line three feet, and if I can get the nozzles out, I have a drill press.
I cook out almost every day. I have three other charcoal grills and an outdoor two burner stove...I guess I'm a grill collector. I'd like to get one of those new hot models from Costco I've been reading about, if I can make a good deal..can't have too many grills..
My burners are rusty, but from my past experiences, they will last many more years if I keep cleaning them and season them. I just finished doing this for the second time on my B&C.
I believe the seasoning process helps protect cast iron from rusting. I use alot of cast iron cookware, and noticed that the seasoned surfaces seem to resist rust better than the unseasoned surfaces.

John


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

In part due to encouragement from this discussion group, my husband and I bought the $599 Member's Mark grill from Sam's last week. I had intended to wait for Father's Day, but I started to worry that they might not be available by then. Plus, I wanted to enjoy it as long as possible this summer, and here in Little Rock, May is prime cookout time. By June, it will still be 90 degrees at dinnertime! My husband and I are both mechanical idiots and this is our first gas grill, but we followed the instructions carefully and didn't have any trouble getting the grill together. We did have some trouble getting the burners to fire at first (even though the sparks were obvious in all three gas collection boxes), but maybe it just took some time to get the gas going, because after we got them burning, it heated up to about 500 degrees pretty quickly. We had friends and family over last night for burgers and bratwurst -- started with something simple, you know -- and greatly enjoyed being able to boil corn on the cob on the side burner instead of running back into the kitchen. I hope to try the rotisserie this week.

I do have some questions, if anyone has some insight for us: First, what is the lighting stick for? Second, does it make more sense to mount the rotisserie motor on the left or right? I know the instructions say left, but the floor model I saw in Sam's had it on the right. Third, what (specifically) is meant by the term "seasoning" the cast iron burners?

Thanks for any assistance you can offer, and happy grilling to us all!


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

HarleyRdr & GwenAR,

I'll try and answer some of your questions.

HarleyRdr, The rear infrared burner is used when using the rotisserie. It will provide an even direct heat to whatever you are cooking. This way you don't have to worry about any open flames under what you're cooking to prevent any possible flare-ups. The infrared burner control is an on/off control only; you can't adjust the temp like the other burners. Mine will hold the temp at about 300 degrees. If you do want more heat for whatever reason, you could use one or more of the bottom burners too.

As for the model number. When you contact the manufacture (Grand Hall) to order the accessories, they will ask you for the model number of your grill so you will get the correct accessories that fit it. The brochure you have is probably just left over from last years model. If you have one of the old brochures, same as me, the accessories listed for model number Y0005XC-2 should work for your grill. What are you looking to get?

By the way, going by your sign in name "HarleyRdr" I take it you ride a Harley. What's your ride like?

GwenAR, the lighting stick is used only as a backup for the main ignition. This allows you to attach a match to it so you can reach a burner to light it manually. I tried my once just to try it out, but never needed to actually need it yet.

As for mounting the rotisserie motor on the left or right, Im not sure it really makes a difference. I have mine mounted on the left.

The term seasoning is used with cast iron cookware. Its the process of preparing cast iron cookware to preventing rust and providing the cookware with a natural, permanent non-stick surface. It can be used for these burners too, but it is not really possible to fully season the inside of the burners.

I got the following from Lodge Cast Irons web site http://www.lodgemfg.com/useandcare.asp they are makers of cast iron cookware.

What is seasoning?

Seasoning is preparing the cast iron cookware for use. There are two objectives in this process:

1. Coat the cookware to prevent rust; and
2. To create a natural, permanent non-stick cooking surface.

How do I season my Lodge cookware?

1. Wash utensil in hot, soapy water. Use soap this time only. Rinse utensil and dry completely. Discoloration on towel is normal.
2. Apply a thin, even coating of melted shortening (Crisco, Wesson, etc.; do not use butter or butter flavored shortening) to the utensil with a soft cloth or paper towel. Apply inside and outside (NOTE: If your utensil has a lid, make sure you season it as well.)
3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place utensil on top shelf of oven, upside down. Place aluminum foil on a baking sheet and put on bottom shelf of oven to catch any drippings. Bake in oven for one hour, then turn oven off and let utensil remain in the oven until cool.
4. To clean utensil after use, use boiling water and a plastic scrub bun or brush. Do not use soap, unless you are going to repeat the seasoning process. Do not put in dishwasher.

Hope some of this helps.

Tim

Here is a link that might be useful: Lodge Cast Iron Cookware


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Bill M - the pan is through the 800 number. The catalog was in the carton. I was also looking elsewhere for awhile and would aways forgot the dimensions. I finally, 'bit-the-bullet' and it already paid for itself. I also purchased the griddle. And not much beats a cool summer morning, dew on the grass, standing in front of my grill cooking pancakes, eggs and home fries for my overnight guests.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Tim,

Thanks so much for the info. My wife and I went to the movies yesterday afternoon (had to see Episode II, you know) and chowed down on too much popcorn so I didn't break in the grille last night. Will be using it tonight for the first time though.

The accessories I'm thinking about getting?...Not sure yet but certainly a warming grid. Perhaps the griddle and roasting pan. As for the temperature with the back burner, I live in Phoenix so I would guess I'll get a bit higher temp from that than you do given the starting temp is higher than most places around the country.

My Screen name?...good guess. Yes, I ride a Harley. Rode motorcycles as a kid some. Had my first at 14. But hadn't ridden in many years. A few years ago a buddy bought a Harley and I got the bug again. On my fourth now. Started with a 1200 Sportster (smaller one) then a Softail Custom, a Fatboy and have a Wide Glide now. Mostly stock except for the usual (pipes, free-flow air-cleaner, and of course a bunch of add-ons to make it look unique). The local Harley dealer warms up his cash register when he sees me walk in!

Thanks again for the information.

Rick


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I just got my "big boy" (Y0101XC) and want to start off on the right path. With the recommendation to "season" the burners, are you suggesting to remove the burners and place them in an oven or do you just heat them on in the grill after oiling them? Appreciate all this great advice in this thread.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Greetings fellow grillers from the colder than normal northland (Minneapolis to be exact). I need help with a temperature question for my new $599 MM grill. While it has been colder than usual this spring, I think I have a problem and would appreciate some advice. With all the main burners on high and an outside temp in the 55 degree range my grill doesn't get much past 400 degrees after twenty minutes. In testing the three cooking zones it seems like the culprit is the left hand burner. I emailed B&C a couple weeks ago on how hot it should get but got no reply. Any thoughts on how to solve my problem? Thanks. bboe


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I have read everything I can possibly find on this grill (Y0101XC) as well as the new Virco from Costco. It seems to be obvious to me, at least from what I have read, that the Member's Mark may not be quite as much grill as the new Virco, but feature for feature, dollar for dollar, it seems to be the best "value". I have just made up my mind after reading another forum here on Garden Web about the Virco from Virco owners. Many of them are asking "Where can I buy accesories?" "Where do I call for service?" "Does the company have a website?". Now I am not a rocket scientist, but, it seems to me that these people can't be idiots or they would not be able to buy an $800.00 grill to begin with. So I have to assume that they are intelligent enough to be able to find the answer to these types of questions in the literature that would have come with the Virco. Which leads me to believe that the company and/or customer service doesn't seem to be the equal of Grand Hall's. That alone has made my decision for me at least. The Virco does "look" more solid than the MM and the side burner does seem more rigid, but if the company does not provide an excellent level of customer service, and unless one needs to cook 50 pounds of ?? on the side burner, I can't see spending the extra $200.00 for the Virco, especially when Grand Hall provides the excellent customer service that I have been reading about here in this great forum. So, thanks again to all who have contributed to this forum and help me make my "educated" decision.

Regards,

bsbbq

PS: Am going Friday to get MM. Will keep everyone posted.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

> I think I have a problem and would appreciate some advice. With all the main burners on high
> and an outside temp in the 55 degree range my grill doesn't get much past 400 degrees after twenty minutes

FWIW, I just tested my grill Saturday evening

With the propane tank almost empty and running all three main burners on high, the hood thermometor hit 550 degrees after about 18 minutes. I don't have a thermometer that measures the cooking grate temperature.

I opened the lid, oiled the middle grate, slapped a couple of tuna steaks on the grill, shut the lid and turned off the left and right burner. The hood thermometer had dropped to 450 degrees in the 60 seconds I had the lid opened. Temps remained at 450 degrees for the few minutes it took to cook the tuna steaks.

Regards,
Ladd


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Saw Episode II. Would rather grill. I'm eager to use the rotisserie but (shhh! don't tell anyone!) I have no idea where to start. Anyone have good recipes to share, along with some idea of how long rotisserie cooking takes?

Also, I second the question about whether seasoning should be done in a regular oven or whether we can season the burners in place. Thanks for all the help and good advice.


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Ignitor Device Sealing

I recently found water in the ignitor switch/battery holder. Has anyone sealed this thing or determined how the water is getting into it. It appears that the button cover is pretty tight.

Bill


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Hello all, I have yet to actually grill anything on this grill yet, but I am very excited about it. I did light all the burners to ensure I was getting enough natural gas. Yes, I did the NG conversion straight out of the box. I actually bought the grill 9 months back with the explicit intentions of making an built in brick gas grill with it. I am currently halfway done with bricking and should be complete pretty soon. I'm very excited about how this will turn out, because Its starting to look very good. We are gonna tile the top. I will post picture very soon.

Here is a link that might be useful: Waypoint's Homepage


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Somebody help me with the deflectors under the grill grid.
MM has ceramic and Virco has Stainless. Which better and why?

Also--body of MM is steel and Virco appears to be stainless. How much difference in the long run?

Virgo burners are stainless tubes--MM are cast iron. What's the long term difference.

Thanks to all you guys for providing this great resource


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Great forum! I've read all the posts on the MM and I'm planning to get it today, but I ran across a post on a different forum about having trouble achieving a high enough temperature for steaks.

The writer said that even after following all the tips on this forum (replacing regulator, opening tank slowly, lighting farthest burners first), the grill would not go much over 400 (actual temp, not just from hood thermometer).

I don't cook steaks much, but when I do I'd like to actually grill them rather than bake them. Have any of you had this problem? What temperature can I expect on my new MM?

Thanks!


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Sprinter,

F.Y.I....what I have done over the years with all types of grilles to ensure steaks are not "baked" as you say, is to grille them on high, or close to it, with the hood up through most of the cooking process (I usually close the hood for the first few munites to get the inside good and hot). That way the outside sears well before the inside gets too well done. We like ours medium. Cooked filets out the other night and they were great. Good luck.

Rick


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Well, the Member's Mark grill brick built in project has just been kicked into high gear. My wife has just mandated that I complete the island by Monday (Memorial day) so that the family can have a BBQ get together. I am 70% done with the bricking and it is turning out much better than I could have hoped for. I will post pics this weekend. Last night, we grilled our first ever rib-eye steaks on the grill and they were GREAT. Athough I am not a grilling expert. I done think that I fully understand when the steak is seared. I let the grill heat up on high for about 10mins to 540degF, then opened the lid brush oil on the grates and slapped the steak on the grill. I did close the lid to try to keep the temp up because it seem to drop lot with the lid open. How long should you cook one side to know its seared before you flip it over. I found that I must have flipped the steaks 4 or 5 times. In the end, it turned out still good, but I felt I didn't do it right.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Waypoint,
I have used the method HarleyRdr describes above for years. For a true grilling of anything high heat is needed. Also, in my humble opinion, if you are grilling something as opposed to baking or roasting you do not need to warm up the grill for an extended amount of time. This wastes propane or NG. And us propane users know how valuable it is to reserve excessive use with these grills. Just turn burners on high and in 2 minutes start grilling. To get a good sear on meat cook one side for a few minutes and flip to other side for a few minutes. I have tried various methods for testing doneness but have yet to stick with a scientific method other than experience. One of these days I may purchase a thermometer fork to help with this. Also don't feel bad about flipping meat 4-5 times during process. I always do this to prevent burning because of high heat used to cook. Some will say this is not correct, but poooh. Good luck with brick job. Will look forward to pictures.
TA


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Thanks for the info Tin Man. I took some pics tonight of my progress regarding the grill built in. Although its not finished. I think you can get a good idea of what it will look like. Notice that I built an opening in the rear so that I could pull our the drip trap. Also the original side panels are now built into the brick. You can also see the NG line and connection. I should finish bricking tomorrow and begin tiling the counter.

Here is a link that might be useful: built in pics during construction


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

All,

Heat Output on Members Mark Grill:
I am on my second tank of LP this season (after 4 weeks). As the tank started depleting the heat output started dropping. When I went to have the tank refilled it was still a quarter full and I mentioned that the heat output was low (around 300 F) even with all burners on high. The propane guy (who appeared quite knowledgable) told me that if there is too much air in the LP tank that the ratio of propane to air in the tank would be low and heat output would be reduced. He then purged the tank of air as he was filling it up and noted that there was quite a bit of air in it.
When I got home I hooked it up and measured the temps. Sure enough after about 10 minutes I got temps of 500 (on the built in temp gauge) and using an oven thermometer on the grates it showed 550+.

If anyone is experiencing low heat output I suggest having the tank purged of air at your next fill-up. It made a huge difference in the heat.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Well guy's, I have had a reak busy grilling week this week. so far this week I have grilled eggplant for eggplant Parm, 2 whole chickens one greek style ( lemon oregno garlic and olive oil) the other injected with Emeril roasted Veggy marinade, rib steaks, pork chops and beef kebobs brushed with Jack Daniels smokehouse grilling sauce ( this stuff is great, rottiseried a leg of lamb ( first time using it best lamb I ever had) and some plain ole hambergers and hotdogs. This is by far the best grill I have ever had it works great!!!! I do notice that it sucks down some serious LP though. The only proble I have is getting the SS grates clean. I have tried all the suggestions in these post and even tried putting them in the Dishwasher with the Pot Scrubber cycle and they just wont come clean. I was thinking about using oven cleaner to get them clean and then ruuning them in the dishwasher again before using, anyone have any thoughts about this.

Ps also looking for several good ways to fix chuck roast that will make them tender

Happy grilling

LOU


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RE:Suggestions on WHEN to call customer service?

Hello everyone,

Due to the comments from owners on this board, I too bought the Member's Mark grill from Sam's Club.

When we fired up the grill, I noticed one of the burner controls had been broken. I've been trying to call Customer Service for the last three days and all I get is a busy signal.

Any suggestions on when the best time to call might be? Do they have a website or email address which I could use to contact them?

I look forward to participating on the board. Having access to a forum with such informed consumers has really been a great help!

Thanks.

Neeker


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Neeker

I have called them 3 or 4 times in the last 3 weeks and have gotten thru within 30 minutes every time. I always have caqlled around 1 or 2 pm

Lou


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

We just bought a MM grill. One of the doors was warped. Instead of spending time calling customer service, we ran back to Sam's with ONLY the door. They dug into a new box, gave us a new door, and we zoomed back home to finish putting the grill together. Neeker - just run the burner control back into your local Sam's.


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secondary warming rack

Has anyone bought the optional accessories? I went all out and ordered everything I could get my hands on. Everything arrived from Grand Hall in a week.
The cast iron casserole is nice. But very, very heavy.

The warming rack is interesting. It is a tray of sorts. porcelain coated with holes. It fits into the hood. Because it is narrow, I can't imagine what I would do with it. Perhaps a few ears of corn side ways.
I kind of wanted a secondary cooking rack to move food to as it was done. Something more accessible.
Does anyone know where a stainless steel rack could be purchased? Perhaps I could fit it lower like some other grills.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

hey pcbach...I also purchased the casserole, griddle, and warming rack. I use the casserole for pizza, peppers and onions (then I throw the sausage in later), and its great for home fries in the morning while using the griddle for the pancakes and eggs. I use the warming rack to hold the food already cooked (ie hot dogs, veggies, etc.) once things are done just put the items up there they stay very hot, and don't have the direct heat to dry out.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Neeker,

I've called them a couple times over the past year. Called first thing in the morning and got someone right away. You can also try their non-800 number (listed below).

Grand Hall USA, Inc.
11880 Shiloh Road
Dallas, TX 75228
Tele: (214) 349-1097 or (800) 770-9769
Fax: (214) 553-0090
Office Hours: Monday - Friday 8:00am - 4:30pm CST

Grand Hall does have a web site (http://www.grandhall.com) and a general email address (general@grandhall.com), but I'm not sure what online support they offer. Their web site shows their own line of high-end grills (Grand Cafe) that they market through specialty stores.

Hope this helps.

Tim

Here is a link that might be useful: Grand Hall


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Gas Leak

I'm on my second tank of LP for my Members Mark in a month and I notice a distinct gas smell in the general area of the grill when not in use. I put some soapy water on the tank fill, valve, regulator and the like, but don't see any bubbles.

Anyone else had this problem or have recommendations on finding/repairing it?


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

GardenAround

We bought our MM grill last year. I've too noticed the same thing, a distint gas smell and we've gone through two tanks in just a few weeks. We checked it with soapy water and didn't see any bubbles. I'm interested in what others say.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I just got the smaller Sam's Club grill for $259.00 (model Y0656). In 40 years of grilling I've never seen as good a deal as this! Very well built for the money. Cooks quite good also. As a professional camp chef let me weigh in on the rusting cast iron burners. They rust, get over it. Cast iron will rust and they are made to do just that, It has no effect on the cooking going on upstairs. Once cast iron develops an oxidised coating (rust) it stops there. Remember the Titanic is cast iron as well as most buildings and bridges made around the turn of the century and they are still with us. The burners will not take seasoning becouse all that is, is burned in grease. Once those burners hit 600 degrees, which isn't much for a flame thrower, the seasoning burns off. Believe me, after seasoning over 300 dutch ovens, 35 of which I keep in around for the really big round-ups, I know cast iron. Good luck, and may you be eating dessert before the bees know you're cooking!


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Gas Leaks

The areas you describe checking for leaks is fitting around the valves and connections. There is another place you can get a leak. It would be a leak through the valves. You can check these by putting a small amount of soapy water across the orfice.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

FYI FWIW: A manometer is a great way to see if you have
a leak. On the MM, simply plug into the side burner orifice,
and turn that on - when you turn on the LP, you'll see
about 11" of water pressure (about 7" if you have NG).

Then turn off the propane (or NG shut off) ... the water
column height should NOT move ... if it slides back down,
then you *DO* have a leak somewhere.

While this won't tell you exactly where the leak is,
it will confirm if you actually have one and take the
guess work out of "do I smell something?"

Will cost you about 2 bucks to build a manometer - see:
http://www.komar.org/bbq/convert/mano.html

alek


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Well I have seen alot of good things about the MM grill on here so I'm delighted that my husband won one for us! I would like to know if anyone has any good recipes for the rotisserie Thanks!


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

As many of you, I have been drooling over this grill for over a year. Your postings have confirmed my thoughts and I have already received financial approval. I will be getting this grill within the next 2 weeks.

The question I have, and also saw that someone else asked but have not seen a response, has anyone done a "permanent" or "semi-permanent" installation with an LP heated house?

My house is only a year old and is heated by LP. We have a 1000 gallon tank buried in the yard. All of the discussions of plumbing type and size encourage me to offer some detail as to our setup. There is a regulator on the side of the house that drops the pressure to 2 PSI. Inside there is a regulator attached to a manafold that provides individual taps for every appliance (2 furnaces, water heater, stove, dryer, and a dedicated run to the deck for a "future grill") All of this is done with a somewhat flexible 1/2" yellow (I guess vinyl) coated copper. That main regulator is supposed to be able to support all of the appliances and maintain the 14" of pressure. Outside is a stub of 1/2" black pipe to which I need to connect. My plan is a temporary connection (soft hose) upon purchase and a permanent one when I can build this unit in. I agree with the concerns of leaks and will obviously put a shut-off valve before any soft hose. I saw mention of a hose kit from HD for $35. This is listed as an NG hose but at roughly 1/2 PSI I assume it will work for LP? Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Lee


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I don't think there would be a problem useing this hose as LP since it does not have a regulator on it. It should be fine. It is made by CharBroil and comes with a quick disconnect fitting on it. Good luck.
bsbbq


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Since I posted my previous message yesterday morning.... I purchased, assembled and cooked on my MM grill. I already used the rotiserie. Great chicken! Anyway, as I assembled the grill following the instructions, I realized that by putting the rotiserie motor on the left you disable the side burner. When I used it I noticed that they even put a sticker on the motor stating the obvious that you can not use both. Has anyone figured out why they don't have you mount the motor on the right? I am sure it will work. I know the direction of the motor is not the issue because I learned tonight that the motor works in both directions. (I stopped it several times to tie legs better, when I restarted it, it would start in whichever direction the slightly off balance chicken was pulling!) Any thoughts?

Lee


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

We mounted out rotisserie on the right, but you still cannot use the side burner, as the handle is across the side burner now.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

See, I knew I was missing something. Thanks. I won't wast me time switching it!

Lee


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

I tried to mount the rotisserie motor on the right but the bushing for the shaft that goes on the opposite side of the moter would not fit in the slot of the grill casting. If one could get it to fit, one could remove the handle.


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RE: Member's Mark Gas Grill - Part 2 (continued discussion)

Greetings:

I've lurked around for several months and have had my MMbbQ for about 8 months now. Wonderful.

I'm writing to share a cleaning tip. I looked at my grill the other day and decided to do a thorough cleaning. The outside on the top had lots small spots where grease particles and dust had burned onto the stainless steel. Also I had earlier found that when I scrubbed a couple of spots where tree sap had stuck, I left marks on the stainless. Solution: I happened to have a flat nylon scrubbing pad with a handle and a plastic back. The scrubbing material is pretty heavy duty. I sprayed the back of the top with WD-40 and then carefully, where no one would see it, scrubbed in the direction of the grain (across) with the pad. Voila! It came clean and looked beautiful. Then I did the entire top and it looks better than new. Even the earlier marks I had made were eliminated. I was surprised that it didn't mark the stainless and pleased with how it looked.

For the inside grills, I soaked them in water and soap and used the same pad for scrubbing them. It did not get them clean so I resorted to a stainless steel scrub pad. (I know, the advise is not to use these but it was the only thing that worked.) They came sparkling clean. I oiled them with vegetable oil and put them back on. In the meantime I cleaned the ceramic flame blockers and looked at the burners. No real rust problems at all. But then I live in a dry climate in Tucson, with a normal of 15% humidity.

Hope this helps pay back all the superb advise I've received here.


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