Not really. You can buy little cast iron boxes you put wood chips in, and put them inside your gas grill. There's stuff called "liquid smoke" but I wouldn't put that poison on any food I'd want to eat. Instead you might want to exploit the clean heat characteristics of your gas grill, and let the natural flavors of the meat and spices come out. I find that Pappy's Choice Seasoning (I found it at Costco) give a great flavor to poultry, and good old Mrs. Dash works great on beef. Finally, generally speaking, meat that is smoked or cooked over charcoal has more carcinogens than meat cooked with gas or electricity. So that smoke taste you miss might not be all that good for you anyway. (I like a light smoke taste anyway, myself, too, but life is generally a compromise).

Are you going to be using natural gas or LP? I just converted from electric to LP gas a couple of months ago. We don't have natural gas, so we had to have propane installed. Around here, some gas companies only take care of the outside work and a plumber is necessary for the indoor work. I talked to numerous people and got four widely different (in terms of price) quotes from gas companies. I also talked to my plumber in case I needed him to do the indoor work. He recommended a company that was qualified to do the indoor and outdoor work, so I wouldn't need a plumber (very honest of him, I thought!). I ended up going with that company b/c not only did they have the best pricing, but the best customer service. They also handled the permit for me. I only paid somewhere around $650 for the whole install, including a full propane tank, but again, the estimates I got varied greatly. Some were b/w $800-900. Obviously prices are going to vary depending on where you live. BTW, I grew up using electric so this is my first time ever cooking with gas. It's only been two months and I haven't done much cooking (summer - lots of travel as well as grilling), but so far, I'm very happy with my LP range!

We had a gas insert added to our wood burning fp. One of the best investments in the house that we've made. We use it all winter long. If the next owners of our house don't like it, they can just pull out the insert, and use it as a wood burning fp again. We've used ours during power outages for heat. The blower doesn't work during outages, but the flames do (as does the remote control). It still warms up the FR and the rest of the ground floor of our raised ranch/bi-level type house. I think this is the model we have: Regency Horizon HZI390E But it appears they might have changed the model numbers/styles on their site (linked below). http://www.regency-fire.com/Products/Gas/Gas-Inserts.aspx

I agree with what mike_home wrote. I am no pro, but I have been through the thought that a (50 yo) boiler replacement requires. Here is a summary of the problem. You probably have a high-mass (lots of iron and lots of water inside) boiler that is hot all the time. It fires up to 180 and then cool off to 160 24/7/365. They vent out a chimney. 25% or more of your heat is going up the chimney. Modern, most efficient boilers fire up and then cool off until heat is needed again. They vent out a plastic pipe that runs out of the side of your house. Most likely your current chimney will need to be relined if you move to mid or high efficiency gas. That will be costly and it will be less expensive to go out the side with a high efficiency, or mid-efficiency condensing, boiler rather than reline and go with a mid efficiency. Your current boiler probably puts out 180F water. To attain the highest efficiency, a modern boiler will be running much lower than that most of the time. Ideally, the water returning to the boiler will be below 130F meaning the supply will be 150 or less. Iif your house has had lots of window and insulation improvements while maintaining the size of the radiator system, you can probably attain that. If not, you can not take advantage of a condensing boiler without adding radiation. Please look up some information about condensing boilers. it is readily available on the web. Cast iron radiators work much better in this picture than aluminum fin because the latter's heat output falls off faster with water temperature than does iron. All is not lost if you have aluminum fin. Calculations need to be made. Your rebate may require you to go with high efficiency. There are many boiler choices available. Highest efficiency is a modulating boiler, but you need to match it to your emitters. A modulating boiler usually has a 1/5 modulating range meaning that its minimum output is 1/5 or 20% of its maximum. That means that your heating system must be designed so your boiler can heat the whole house for the design temperature, while it can still throttle back to the output of the smallest zone. For example, assume that you have a total heat output of 100,000 BTU matched to your heat loss. You have a 1/5 mod con boiler so its min output is 20,000. If your smallest zone's radiators are above 20,000 btu, you are fine, If your smallest zone's radiators are 10,000 btu, if that is the only zone calling for heat, your boiler turns on and off repeatedly (short cycling). That is not good for efficiency and not good for the boiler. You need to think about combining zones, adding radiation or including a buffer tank.