As far as I know, Consan is not systemic, so I think that would keep it from being very effective against Puccinia malvacearum. I use the similar product, Physan 20, on my zinnias, primarily as an aid in sterilizing pots and trays. (Some hospitals use it in their mop water.) I also have used it as a drench for germinating seedlings, but its efficacy in that application is unproven. They say that the best defense is a good offense. Following that philosophy, I think we need a systemic fungicide that kills Puccinia malvacearum. There are a few systemic fungicides (I use Tebuconazole on my zinnias) and they have a lot of advantages over surface fungicides like sulfur. The systemics stay inside the plant and are not washed off by rain. Even a heavy dew can wash off some surface fungicides, like the potassium-bicarbonate-based GreenCure (which I still use from time to time, because it is so non-toxic). The systemics also protect new growth, which is completely unprotected by a previous surface sprayed product. The systemics do need to be re-applied on my rapidly growing zinnias, simply because their plant volume increases significantly, which dilutes the existing systemic. I usually reapply systemics on my crucial extra-choice breeder zinnias every two or three weeks to compensate for their continually increasing sap volume. My original tubular-petaled "mutant" zinnia got a biweekly application of Bayer All-In-One Rose & Flower Care throughout its extra-long lifetime, giving it at least double the lifetime of a "normal" zinnia. I don't know if there is a systemic effective against Puccinia malvacearum, but if I were growing hollyhocks, I would be looking for one. ZM

I don't think that anyone without a chemistry degree is going to be able to say for sure. Rusts are ferric hydroxide : Fe2O3.H2O or similar. The technical paper below lists ten different forms of ferric hydroxide. Goethite is the most common rust on rusty steel parts, according to the article below. Compounds don't necessarily stay in one state after the chemical change. They can, if conditions permit undergo further chemical changes. The Wisconsin extension office article states that if microbial activity is sufficient to decrease the oxygen supply in acid soils, some ferric iron oxides and hydroxides will be transformed to more soluble ferrous forms. I think that it is more accurate to say that none of us really possess the knowledge to state conclusively. I will ADMIT that I do not know the answer conclusively. You are going to have to study some of the technical papers and decide for yourself. Here is a link that might be useful: Iron Oxides and Rust

It looks like surface rust confined to a few small areas and that most of the old metal box is fine. Maybe at one time there was a leak in the roof and moisture got to the box. As long as you are sure you don't have any current moisture problems in that location, I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't look like it presents a hazard or needs to be replaced.

Sorry to see rust showing up so early for you. I usually have some damage from it but when the plants are much larger and closer to harvest. I don't know if removing the leaves will be helpful or harmful because as you said, the plants have so few of them at this size. You don't say how many plants you have, but if it's not too many you could spray or wipe the leaves with a solution of food grade hydrogen peroxide, Oxidate is one brand name. This should kill the rust and then if you spray the other biological it might keep it from taking over again. My experience is that the biological sprays work best if applied before an outbreak (I use Actinovate) and not so well if applied after it's started. Best of luck and hopefully the garlic can outgrow the rust. -Mark