This looks like the bottom layer of mud, then the membrane goes on top (about 10" up the side of walls), then another layer of mud. I think I have this correct but someone who knows will chime in soon. Good luck!

How can you tell from this picture that membrane (Grey thing ?) go up to the side of the wall for 10" ?? That sounds too much for me.

My concern is what appears to be Durock on the inside of the curb. If it's nailed or screwed to the curb.......well, you're "screwed."

Any penetrations to the inside or top of the curb provide "easy access" for water to get in...not something you want.

Proper "build" would be to overbend some lathe and apply directly over the curb. This would be covered with "fat mud," basically the same as your floor mud with some lime added to make it sticky. Usually, you can build some temporary "forms" to contain the mud until it dries.

If yours has mechanical fasteners on the inside or top, the liner is ruined and will fail.

You should redo everything, and get someone who knows what they're doing. The liner needs to come up the wall behind the cement board 3" above the top of the curb, and then there needs to be plastic on the wall above and overlapping that (also behind the cement board). I don't see any evidence of that on the short wing wall on the right. I would also wrap the waterproofing around those wing walls. That corner piece on the curb is wrong. It needs to wrap ALL the way around the corner. They make preformed pieces just for that application. You can't have cement board on the inside of the curb, as StoneTech explained. Based on the things I see here, I even doubt that the liner was put on a preslope. I'm sorry, but this looks like a disaster just waiting to happen.

In your opinion, If I leave it the way it is, how long this shower will last before it starts leaking? Within a year???

The liner was preslope, I verified.

The wall will be waterproof with hydrogen. I will put hydroban only in the corner where wall hit floor. Since there's rubber membrane on the pan, I cannot put hydroban because I may get mold sandwich....

As of now, I can't redo everything so I have to put waterproof sealant where he nailed durock to curb. (3 nails inside the curb)

:( :( :(

I've torn out more than a few that were built this way. Generally the curb will be the first to leak. The most recent one was a little over a year old. It looked 20 years old........

With some modifications, you could probably convert this to a Kerdi shower....

There really isn't any use in throwing good money after bad and more time after this, and it's foolish to think about patching it.. It's a lot more affordable to rip it out now than 18 months later. At this point, none of the finishing touches are done. 18 months later, all of your expensive tile and decor stuff will have to be demolished to fix it and it'll cost you 4x as much as just doing it correctly now will do.

Get your money back from the hack and find someone that knows what they are doing.

Wasy and cheap to simply rip out the mud floor and re-do it. Again, consider Schluter's "Kerdi."

@StoneTech
Can I assume the cost between ripping out/redo the floor and Kerdi system over the pan is about the same?

Will I have to use kerdi up to the ceiling, or just the pan and curb? I asked because I already put 1st coat of HYDROBAN over corner/shower niche on the wall.

What about the drain? I have to use kerdi drain too then? Do I need to cut old drain body/riser at all?

It should be pretty close...but even if it's a bit more, the peace of mind is worth it. Another advantage is that, with this system, only ONE mud floor is required, as there is no encapsulated rubber membrane. The Schluter website has numerous videos that go quite in-depth on the Kerdi System. Worth a look.

Not necessary to go to the ceiling, but the Kerdi should extend at least 6' up the walls or just to/above the water outlet.... You can Kerdi up to or over the Hydroban, if you like. If you have enough Hydroban for the walls, I suppose you could Kerdi the pan and up the walls a foot or so and Hydroban the rest, but you're mixing systems and won't have a warranty from either Company. I would just Kerdi it all, but you're choice here.

Yes, you'll need the Kerdi drain as it's designed to tie into the fabric. You will need to cut the riser and set the Kerdi drain flange so that it sits at least 3/4" above the slab. You then pack it solidly to the slab before doing the mud bed. For this, I generally use some "morter mix" (AKA brick morter), with some thinset mixed in to make it sticky. Stuff a towel in to keep debris from going down the drain, wait a day and you're ready to pull the mudbed.

Hope this helps. Keep the questions coming......

This post was edited by StoneTech on Wed, Nov 6, 13 at 11:41