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dallasartssalon

How Far Out Beyond Tub/Shower To Tile

Can anyone tell me your thoughts on how far out away from a tub/shower combo to bring out the tile?

We are redoing an old tub/shower combo and my husband wants to extend the tile out past the edge of the tub a few inches as the tile we picked does not have a bullnose tile to edge and we have to use Schluter edge.

I thought the tile should end/align with bathtub & use the Schluter from ceiling to top of tub.

He said to bring the tile out a few inches & run the Schluter from ceiling to floor/baseboards.

I am not sure I am loving his idea. I have googled and can find many thing son how high to tile but not on how far out to bring the tile.

It's a small full bath (5x8) and I think that by expending the tile & running the edge floor to ceiling it will make bathroom look choppy.

Thanks for advice.

Comments (29)

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Here's mine. The edge is finished with quarter-round. It doesn't go all the way to the ceiling as mine are 9 ft. and it would just be too high. The original tile came out about this far too. I don't think I'd want it to stop even with the tub.

  • Dallas Arts Salon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thank you both. Linelle - your tub looks great!

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Dallas, one other thing. I have a cloth curtain on a curved shower rod. After my shower, I usually leave the curtain inside the tub for a little while, spread out to dry. Then I bring it outside and shove it far to the left, i.e., the end in the photo. There may still be some slight dampness, so it butts up against the tile, not the wall.

  • Dallas Arts Salon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Linelle -

    Not sure where you are but where did you find the quarter-round?

    We are using a matte white ceramic tile (look of subway tile) that is 12x24 running horizontal.

    Wonder if we can find locally in a shade of white to match.

    Thanks.

  • jerzeegirl
    9 years ago

    I have been debating this very same question and I will also be using Schluter but with stacked white matte 3x6 subway tiles . My configuration is currently like linelle's, but I have a soffit over the tub. The tile currently comes out 3" from the tub and goes from the floor to the edge of the soffit (which over hangs the tub by 3"). Like you I was contemplating ending the tile at the tub edge but decided against it because I think that ending at the tub would just be too abrupt visually. Instead I think I will do a border and run the tile up the wall longways. The rest of them will be horizontal.

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Dallas,

    Daltile. It's their standard Arctic White subway. I knew I wanted quarter-round as trim. It also helped because there's a bit of thickness between the field tile and surrounding wall and bullnose wouldn't have cut it. You can find the quarter-round at Home Depot, but not in all colors. I think my tile guys went directly through Daltile. It's all delightfully inexpensive. :) I love it.

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    jerzee, that sounds nice. I like same-tone trim and going vertical with the same tile sounds like a good plan.

  • suzanne_sl
    9 years ago

    I also think you need to go past the tub and to the floor for water protection. Our tub is in an alcove, which provides logical places to stop, but our extensions are pretty much like linelle's.


    We also chose a 12 x 24 tile, but it had those 3 x 24 bullnose finish tiles to match which made a nice finish. Be sure you waterproof in front of the tub too. When we took out our old acrylic tub/shower unit, we found a bit of water damage right where you step out. (The old unit was wider than the new tub, hence the "fill" in front of our tub. Notice how cleverly we matched it to the contrast trim in the shower.)

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Like susanne, my tub's also in an alcove. The tile arrangement was similar for the original tub (1991) so it was a no-brainer to do the same thing. In fact, the old tile extended 6 inches beyond the tub, but my new tub is slightly wider, so now it's more like 4 inches.

    This post was edited by linelle on Wed, Oct 1, 14 at 13:46

  • jerzeegirl
    9 years ago

    haha, linelle. I still have two weeks to change my mind about 5 more times! The only thing I am absolutely sure of right now is that my floor is going to be on a diagonal!

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    jerzee, I think diagonal floors look awesome. I wish I'd done that.

  • Dallas Arts Salon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I have not been able to find any white matte quarter-round except online & It will take too long to arrive.

    The closest we can find is a white matte bullnose in a 4x10 at The Tile Shop which is out of stock at the store but will arrive Sat AM - the day the tiler comes.

    It's not going to be a perfect match.

    Do you think we are better going with this (we will need something to edge the shower niche with as all) or stick with Schluter edge in white or brushed nickel up against the 12x24 white frost matte tile?

    Thanks.

  • enduring
    9 years ago

    I'd go with the Schluter edge, instead of a miss matched bullnose. Unless the bull nose is an accent color. Even bull noses that are to match the tiles often don't do a very good job. Is your large format tile clay body, red? You will probably want to cover that with something, otherwise if it was through body, I might just leave the tile edge, the finished edge. My sister did that in her room and it is very nice looking. I did it in my bathroom shower and I like it too. But I did a lot of layout planning ahead of time and knew exactly were my edges would be and planned accordingly. My tile was through body white porcelain so it worked out just fine. I thought the finish in my shower went with the contemporary style I was going for. If I would have done a country or early 20th century look I would have considered a bull nose.

    My niche and the self edging finish I did.

  • Dallas Arts Salon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I am also not liking that the wall tile will be 12: and the bullnose 12". Too many lines not aligning.

    Our style is contemporary so would you do the Shluter edge in white or the brushed nickel which will match our fixtures and our floor tile is an antracite gray.

    Thanks.

  • enduring
    9 years ago

    I would go with the Schluter edge for a contemporary install. Whether brushed nickel or white, I don't know. I'd probably do a metallic since the whites might not match. But I would look at samples of several options before I decided.

  • Dallas Arts Salon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Those are easy to find so I think I will buy the metal and the white and see which looks best. Thanks all. I'll post photos when we are done!

  • jerzeegirl
    9 years ago

    I am going with the Schluter edge on my install because I didn't like the way the matching bullnose looked - it was not an elegant bullnose.

    I debated on which Schluter metal to use and I decided to use the satin anodized aluminum (in the Schiene profile) instead of the brushed nickel to match my plumbing. The anodized aluminum is a light silver color and I think it blends nicely with the white tile. My husband used the brushed nickel (Jolly profile) on his shower and it looks great with his medium gray tile.

    This post was edited by jerzeegirl on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 12:24

  • kbaldridge13
    8 years ago

    jeerzeegirl-could you post pictures of your finished project using the satin anodized aluminum (Schiene profile)? Also, pictures of your other bathroom in which you used the brushed nickel (Jolly profile) for edge treatment in the shower?


  • jerzeegirl (FL zone 9B)
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Hi kbaldridge13: The first photo is my Dh's bathroom and the second photo is mine. The differences in the two profiles might be difficult to see because they are kind of subtle. The Schluter was used on both our windows too.

  • kbaldridge13
    8 years ago

    Thank you for posting your pictures. Looks nice with your choice of tile in each bathroom.


  • PRO
    By Any Design Ltd.
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    "...He said to bring the tile out a few inches & run the Schluter from ceiling to floor/baseboards...."

    Personally I think tile guys use way too much Schluter profiles. Too me it cheapens the look of most bathrooms. Sometimes you have no choice but the seamless approach looks the best by far. Then the bull nose look.

    [TILE TO WALL TRANSITIONS - A SEAMLESS APPROACH[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tile-to-wall-transitions-a-seamless-approach-dsvw-vd~675129?n=70)

    Link URL: [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tile-to-wall-transitions-a-seamless-approach-dsvw-vd~675129?n=70[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tile-to-wall-transitions-a-seamless-approach-dsvw-vd~675129?n=70)



    The left side shows a 1 1/4" mitered return at the right side a flush seamless 45 degree transition form wall tile to drywall. Just one of the many examples in the link above.


    Good Luck JW


  • lam702
    8 years ago

    We are in the process of renovating our bathroom and did the tile around the tub in a similar manner as Linelle. Different tile style, but extended it in the same manner.


  • jerzeegirl (FL zone 9B)
    8 years ago

    The link above is a dead end.


  • PRO
    By Any Design Ltd.
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I just checked from another account and found that the link is in fact dead. Houzz is letting me see the discussion but blocked it from view from anyone else it appears.

    Too bad for the rest of you - there was a lot of good info there.

    I sent an email to Emily Hurley at Houzz asking why this is. I think there are some hidden rules we do not know about on Houzz. I'm going to take a break from helping out here until I understand the rules better and someone at Houzz explains why they are up to these behind the scenes editing....

  • Emily H
    8 years ago

    Hi there, The link above works fine for me and is not hidden in any way. What happens when you click on it? If you copy and paste it into your browser, are you able to get there?

  • kbaldridge13
    8 years ago

    emily-I, too, have been unable to connect to the link posted by John Whipple even by copying and pasting in my browser. Could you help us reach that link?


  • jerzeegirl (FL zone 9B)
    8 years ago

    I get the message "The page you requested was not found". How weird.


  • PRO
    By Any Design Ltd.
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Thanks Emily! Someone in the SEO Department at Houzz unlocked the discussion and now it is visible again.

    The seamless approach helps when you have no bullnose tile available but really does not address the question of how far. This I think depends on many things.

    I do not like sliver cuts. So if your using a large 12"x12" tile coming out 1" - 2" leaves and 2"x12" tile cut. This is a little small. When possible I like to see 1/3 tile cuts or 1/4 tile cuts. So 3"or 4" looks better.

    The biggest hurdle with tubs is the tile flange lip and getting the backboard just right. Too often the backer board is lipped over the flange and the tile gets set really heavy. Then a tile guy uses a 3/8" tile edging like Schluter but has 1/4"-1/2" of thin-set behind the tile. So you get both exposed thin-set and a tile edging. This looks like crap.

    If the wall to the tub is out of plumb say 1/8" from top to bottom it often looks better to follow that plane and use a 1/2" tile edging. Then you can get thin-set under the tile. Keep the edging tight to the wall and not see any thin-set under the tile edging.

    We I do use a tile edging (which is rarely) I set them first with a few daps of silicone and then top it with some Ardex 8+9. This turns the edging into a capillary break at the wall.