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Fill gaps/screw heads etc with thinset before

Posted by alan_s_thefirst (My Page) on
Mon, Aug 13, 12 at 18:27

Redgard? - I'm using a backerboard. Easyboard, apparently aka Wonderboard. I know some recommend Hydroban but I can't get it where I am.

It seems a little unclear on this. As for "joints designed to move," does that mean corners, or joints in boards? All my joints are supported by blocking. I've actually read online that some people suggest no mesh, no thinset in gaps in corners (I'm assuming inside corners, don't know the deal with outside corners)

The corner thing makes sense since I'm transitioning to existing drywall. I figure I'd use silicone in the gap between the drywall and backerboard, which will be covered by tile. When grouting time comes, either caulk or use silicone in the corner, to allow for movement.

Here is a link that might be useful: Redgard

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Fill gaps/screw heads etc with thinset before

Silicone ALL "Changes OF Plane." Do NOT use grout.

RE: Fill gaps/screw heads etc with thinset before

"Joints designed to move" are the changes in plane...wall-to-wall, wall-to-ceiling, lightweight (cement board over wood frame) construction.

Your between-board joints in the walls that are supported by backing will not move independent of one another.

RE: Fill gaps/screw heads etc with thinset before

Hi Jack, So does this mean when I get ready to put on my hardibacker around the tub and along the sink wall that I need to caulk the inside corner joints? Also the plain drywall joints in the other parts of the room that will be tiled? I will be putting Hydro Ban on all the walls that will be tiled for its anti fracture benefits as well as protection from water.

The spec sheet says to use a latex modified thin-set to fill change of planes and cracks.

Am I missing something?

Here is a link that might be useful: Hydro Ban spec sheet

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