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sue_ct

Installing shower curtain rod on tile

sue_ct
10 years ago

I have an older bathroom that is fully tiled. I would like to replace the tension rod I have always used with a permanent double rod. The tension rods (I have had 2) always slip down over time until the curtain is dragging and have to re-positioned. It never stays at the correct height for long. I have a curain and liner hanging with curtain hooks, and I would like to be able to put the throw rug and an occasional item over the rod to dry as well without it slipping or falling down. I bought a double rod at HD, and a set of Tile and Glass bits. The instructions only say for installations other than drywall consult a professional. Doubt a contractor is going to want to come out to install my shower rod. If I use the correct bits and go slowly without too much pressure, do I still stand a high chance of cracking the tile? Is there any way to use any kind of adhesive or cement to install it?

After 10+ years, I have had it with these tension rods.

Comments (31)

  • remodelfla
    10 years ago

    You can put a piece of blue painters tape and mark where you want to drill. Use a tile bit. Don't push too hard once you get it started (don't let the drill slip) and then hold steady and allow the drill to do the work.

  • sue_ct
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Its done, its sturdy and no cracked tile! There is one problem. On one side I was not able to drill through the wall completely so the anchors were sticking out about 1/4 inch or so, and once I put the bracket on, the cover is now 1/4-1/2 from the wall instead of being flush with it. It is firm and doesn't move at all but I am a little disappointed. This is the wall with the shower on it, so plumbing is in the wall, although the shower is about 16" away from where I was installing the rod. There is also a bathroom on the second floor directly above this one, but the shower up there would also be closer to the outside wall of the room. Maybe one of these days I will empty out the closet, take down the shelves and open the panel behind it to see if I can see what it is. Any thoughts what it could be that would be 16" to the side of the shower?

    Thanks for your help. It gave me the last bit of courage I needed to try it. These tiles are almost 20 years old and could not be replaced. Had I cracked it I would have had to live with the crack or an odd tile filling in there until its in the budget to renovate.

  • weedyacres
    10 years ago

    How far did the anchor go in? If it was just the depth of the cement board + tile, then your drill might have bumped into a protection plate nailed over the stud to indicate there's plumbing or electrical running through the stud, and to prevent screws from piercing them.

    Or you might just have hit a nail or screw head.

  • Babka NorCal 9b
    10 years ago

    Can you switch out those with shorter screws? Then as added insurance, epoxy it to the wall?

    -Babka

  • sue_ct
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    The anchor went in about 3/4 of the the way. It felt like I went through the drywall but quickly hit something again. Shorter screws wouldn't work because the anchor would still stick out. I am not sure how deep the tile + drywall would be. It could be a plate over a stud, I did think of that because I have had similar issues in other places in the house. Of coarse a pipe is also a possibility. I have used those plates myself when I was remodeling the kitchen. It does not seem likely it was just screw because it happened with both anchors on that side. Each side has two.There is no electricity in the closet or shower but
    There is a ceiling fan and of coarse, other lights, just not really close to the area. I am going to try to access the panel if nothing goes wrong by the end of the week. Doubt I will be able to see much, but a stud might make sense. It would have to have something on the stud to prevent me from going through it. I only used the tile bit to get through the tile portion and then switched to a regular wood bit. Still did not go.

  • Babka NorCal 9b
    10 years ago

    You sound like you know what you are doing, so I may sound silly when I suggest removing the anchors and using shorter screw with shorter anchors? I don't know if your anchors are easily removable with more than a strong tug. Some are metal and some are plastic.

    -Babka

  • ship4u
    10 years ago

    hi sue_ct,
    You should have drilled in about an inch, including the tile and backerboard or drywall. That would be plenty to hold up the rod. Carefully pull the anchor out, cut off some of the short end, and reinsert. Then you can use shorter screws.
    How old is the house? Our house is from the 1920's and the builders used a metal mesh to support the cement walls.

  • copanolady
    10 years ago

    I have exactly the same problem with the curtain always falling down. I read thru the answers and I have someone who can drill the tile but my question is this: what kind of ends (phalanges?) do you use? I envision "U" shaped ceramic ends with screw holes to attach to the tile (white or off-white) but I don't know where to get them or for that matter, if they even exist! Can someone direct me or tell me what to use to drill into the wall of tile to hold up the rod? Please....thanks.

  • sjhockeyfan325
    10 years ago

    Google "holders for shower curtain rod". Any hardware store should have the standard kind.

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Currently my shower tile is 78" high. New tile will be the same height since I want to tile the window sill as it is now, although you can't see it in this photo.

    I'm getting a new tub and ditching the glass shower door, going with a curtain, actually clear liner and cloth outer. The photo shows blue tape at 70" high, not sure of standard shower curtain height. It looks like I will need to either have a tension rod or drill through the tile. Is that correct?

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    Not high enough. Standard shower curtains are 72" long. The rod above my alcove tub is 76.5" from the floor.

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Dreaming, so even using your numbers, the rod will need to be affixed on a tile surface, right? Tension rod or drill through tile?

  • enduring
    9 years ago

    Maybe this is your plan but thought I'd mention it anyway. If you are taking the walls down to the studs, I would think that bracing the area with 2x4's, or what ever, for the shower curtain would be prudent. Then you would have something for the fasteners to grab into instead of just tile and drywall. And if ever in the future you want to install a door the reinforcement will be there for that too.

  • cold_weather_is_evil
    9 years ago

    If it's a plastic sleeve anchor, just take a sharp blade (a kitchen knife, a razor blade, an x-acto, a mat knife, etc) and slice off the protruding plastic flush with the wall surface. Then choose a screw length to fit. That's the entire reason for saving all one's old screws in a glass jar forever! The right screw diameter lets the screw push and deform the plastic against the hole sides and everything is essentially a friction fit.

    Also, many screws included as mounting hardware are so soft that they can be shortened with a pair of quality diagonal cutters or vise-grips with a cutting edge in the jaws. Or a grinder. Or a belt sander...

  • cold_weather_is_evil
    9 years ago

    If it's a plastic sleeve anchor, just take a sharp blade (a kitchen knife, a razor blade, an x-acto, a mat knife, etc) and slice off the protruding plastic flush with the wall surface. Then choose a screw length to fit. That's the entire reason for saving all one's old screws in a glass jar forever! The right screw diameter lets the screw push and deform the plastic against the hole sides and everything is essentially a friction fit.

    Also, many screws included as mounting hardware are so soft that they can be shortened with a pair of quality diagonal cutters or vise-grips with a cutting edge in the jaws. Or a grinder. Or a belt sander...

  • cold_weather_is_evil
    9 years ago

    If it's a plastic sleeve anchor, just take a sharp blade (a kitchen knife, a razor blade, an x-acto, a mat knife, etc) and slice off the protruding plastic flush with the wall surface. Then choose a screw length to fit. That's the entire reason for saving all one's old screws in a glass jar forever! The right screw diameter lets the screw push and deform the plastic against the hole sides and everything is essentially a friction fit.

    Also, many screws included as mounting hardware are so soft that they can be shortened with a pair of quality diagonal cutters or vise-grips with a cutting edge in the jaws. Or a grinder. Or a belt sander...

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    Yes, I'd drill through the tile. Those tensions rods are junk. Get yourself a nice curved rod. Also, get a solid one, not the expandable ones. It may have to be cut, but then you won't have the bump in the middle to pull the curtain rings over.

    If the blue tape is 70", 76" to 77" will put you at the upper edge of the top tile. Seems you've got room with the window - perhaps consider one additional course of tiles to bring it to 82"? You said you were going with 4" tiles, right?

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    I'm going with a solid curved rod and got the roller ball hooks. Am going to try a WaterShed curtain. Same as in hotels - cloth but doesn't need a liner. Bed&Bath&Beyond carries them - 91 different colors and patterns. Sure I'll be able to find one that works.

    Here is a link that might be useful: WaterShed Shower Curtains

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    enduring, that sounds like a good idea. Since all the old tile is coming out, plus its underlying board (or whatever it's called), adding reinforcing bracing may be possible, although I don't think my estimates include it. Will throw it out there.

    Dreaming, thanks for the advice. Yes, 4" tiles. An additional course of tiles will be considered. I just want to be sure that when the tile is drilled through, it's in the right place. :)

    Where did you get your solid curved rod? Nice to see so many choices of curtains at BB&B, plus budget-friendly.

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    I bought a Moen at build.com There are so many and it's not always clear what the differences are between different models outside of the price. The descriptions are pretty lame. I ended up reading all the spec and installation pdfs to get the details. I wanted a one piece, not an expandable tube within a tube, stainless steel, chrome finish if possible and curved. With the one piece rods, you go with one that's slightly bigger and then cut off a little with a hack saw.

    I got these roller rings (shower curtain standard size uses a dozen rings). They've got good reviews but are not stainless steel but chrome plated; don't know how long they'll last til rust sets in.
    http://www.build.com/moen-csisr2100ch-chrome-shower-curtain-roller-rings-set-of-12/p1205850

    and this rod:
    http://www.build.com/moen-csicsr2165ch-chrome-5ft-fixed-length-curved-shower-rod-wholesale-packaging/p1297003

    The 'wholesale packaging' means nothing - it's still a single rod.

    If you want a separate liner, you can also get curved double rods which separate the two curtains on different rods & rings. There are also hooks that are double - for two curtains on one rod.

    Be sure when you measure you consider the bottom of your tub which will be higher than the floor. You don't want the curtain to drag on the bottom of the tub.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Build.com Shower Curtain Rods

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Dreaming, thank you SO much for the links and help deciphering the detail. Confusing! At first I was thrown by what "extension" meant for a fixed length rod, but I assume it's the total distance of the curve from straight, right?

    I have imagined using two curtains, one inner clear and the other visible and cloth-ish. I have never had a single one that was like cloth but also waterproof. I think if I have two I'll stick with a single rod anyway, using either the double-ended rings or even putting two curtains on a single ring, which I've seen in Houzz but don't know if it works well.

    Thanks again for your help!

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    Yeah, so, the web sites are next to useless. Forgot - I gave up trying to figure it out on Build.com and went to the Moen site, which isn't much better. After I selected, went back to Build.com to buy. My alcove is 58 & 3/8". If you filter on 'Shower Rods' and 'Chrome' (if that's the finish you want - see link below) you get 11 choices. (Note, if you filter on 'Curved Shower Rods' you only get 1 choice - go figure.)

    With the link below, you throw out the bottom two because they're tension rods and the double rod if you don't want that. Leaves 8. What's the difference besides the price and the end cap? When you check the description, it will say "adjustable for 5' to 6' alcove" - that's the tube within a tube kind. The ones that say "designed to fit a 5' surround securely" means it's a fixed size and you have to cut it if it's too big. Since 5' is 60", I went with CSR2165 and will have to cut off a little less than 2". CSR2166 is the same only for 6' opening (72") or less.

    With the curved rods, you don't want to be too far away. Cutting off too much won't work, unless you maintain the angle, although the pivoting mounting on some helps.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Moen Chrome Shower Rods

    This post was edited by DreamingoftheUP on Sun, Apr 6, 14 at 16:39

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Building, thanks again! This will be a thread I come back to. I'm not sure of the finish. I'm getting chrome for the shower hardware and sink faucet. I don't think I want to do all chrome everything, but I'm not sure how to mix without it looking like a miss. If I had a chrome shower curtain rod, could I do brushed nickel towel bar and/or light fixture?

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Hah, I came back to this thread all right. Everything has been bought and is sitting in my garage in readiness for Tuesday's Kickoff Day...except for the marble still at the yard, and the darn curtain rod.

    Since last I posted my tile has morphed from square to subway and it will be higher than a curtain rod. So I either need a tension rod or have to drill through the tile. And I'm reluctant to drill through new tile. I don't know that I should be, but I am. Plus I haven't decided on a curved or straight rod.

    How does one patch holes in tile anyway?

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    I don't know why all the anxiety about drilling through tile. I've done it numerous times in my home for various reasons without cracking the (ceramic) tile. Get a local handyman if you are unsure.

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    I ordered a Moen curved rod, the kind you cut to size and attach via drilling through the tile. My bathroom remodel starts day after tomorrow and I'll have my guys do it.

    My angst over drilling through tile is 1) I've never done it, and 2) I have drilled enough holes in sheetrock that later needed to be patched. I can repair a hole in sheetrock, but was concerned about a misplaced hole in tile, esp. new tile, not old stuff that I can be more cavalier about.

    Just for my FYI file, short of replacing a single tile, what might one do to patch a misplaced, no longer used hole in tile? Matching caulk? Fortunately I'm going with Arctic White tile so it might be do-able.

  • DreamingoftheUP
    9 years ago

    The best bet is to make sure you have a good quantity of spare tiles on hand for in the future.

    You can always fill a hole in tile with caulk or grout.

    Another option when deciding on how to position items, is to put the screw holes along grout lines. Of course, that's not always possible. However if you remove something later, the hole can be filled with grout and it's not as noticeable even if the edges of the hole dig into the tile. I did that in my bathroom when I replaced a grab bar. I've got plenty of tile to replace it, however I do not have any spares with the finished edge. Didn't want to risk removing the tiles and then damaging the adjacent tile with the finished edge, so I just filled the hole. Granted, this kind of imperfection may drive some people nuts, but it doesn't bother me. I'm more of a stickler for straight and level lines, which I dealt with in a light fixture causing another 2 week delay.

  • Bunny
    9 years ago

    Thanks Dreaming. Mine will be in the upper zone, probably obscured by any shower curtain. And since the tile is white (and easily obtained), I think having to patch a screw hole won't be tragic.

  • Kelly Ford
    7 years ago

    We were perplexed as well with the task ahead and excuse me from skipping from the hunt to the dinner table: dry board is rough correct and rods stay up nicely, tile is slick by nature and rods naturally slip downwards. Mark the rod locations (both sides) with crayola (rubs off nicely later) and sand (rough up) the 2 circular areas for the rod to press firmly against so doesn't slip. Problem solved without a drill, drill bit or cracked tile. OK, so we haven't tried it yet, but it sounds good in theory. But I ain't touchin a blasted drill!

  • HU-458000885
    3 years ago

    Glass/tile drill bit, SLOW drill speed, light/light-moderate pressure.


    Buy a few pieces of similar material at the home store, lay them on a flat board and take a few practice shots.


    Watch some YouTube videos...