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coffeebreak

Do you have an access hatch? Whirlpool/Airtub baths

coffeebreak
16 years ago

I need to start getting ideas on how to cover the deck for our drop in whirlpool/air combo tub. One item I have to consider is how to design the access hatch for the heater and pump. This tub will sit in an alcove, so the access will be from the long side and in direct view.

I have seen a picture of a natural stone slab top with what looked like wood sides. My guess is that one of the wood panels acted as the access hatch. We are thinking of using tile to cover the deck of the tub, but we are unsure of the side.

Can you tell me (or show me?) what you did? I sure would appreciate it!

Comments (16)

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    You'll need two things:
    -access to the pump and/or heater
    -free air to the pump

    Here are some pics I have on file. The apron is wood frame with three removable panels. Not only can each panel be removed on its own, but the entire front apron, to include the frame and the three panels, can be removed as a whole.












    For air, I have access from both ends. In the last picture, you can see a grate on the left side of the apron. In that same picture, you can see the removed apron on the right side of the picture, leaning against a closet. The toe kick of the closet is open, and air can flow through the toe kick, under the closet, and to the tub's mechanicals.

    Other options include hinged access panels with hidden "push to release" latches, or panels held in place with magnets or simple clips.

    Access can even be obtained through the wall from an adjacent room.

    Lots of ways to do this.

    Mongo

  • codnuggets
    16 years ago

    Mongo, this is exactly what I will be constructing for access to my air tub. I don't see any visible fasteners, can you provide some detail on the attachment method for both the apron and the individual panels? You mentioned some options, I was just curious what was used in this installation. Thanks.

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    Best bet was to draw a picture.

    Hope it's understandable.



    Remember, the top rail and the bottom rail of the face frame are connected by four vertical stiles. I left them out of the drawing so the drawing wouldn't be as cluttered.

    There are indeed no mechanical fasteners or magnets that hold the face frame or the panels in place. The panels are captured by engaging the face frame rails. The face frame is captured by the tub deck on top and the base board on the bottom.

    The gist of it is that the face frame is loaded into the front by tilting the top of the frame into the gap built into the bottom front edge of the tub deck. Once the top of the frame is slid upwards into the slot, the bottom of the face frame is rotated inwards so that the bottom engages in the bottom slot. It is held in place by the baseboard.

    When released, it drops down about 1/4" or so, and the bottom is locked in the slot created by the baseboard in front and the cleat behind it.

    To remove the face frame, lift it up so the top rail of the face frame goes upwards in the top slot that's behind the front edge of the tub deck. The bottom of the bottom rail will rise up enough to be above the top edge of the baseboard. The bottom rail of the face frame can then be rotated outwards, then the whole frame is lowered so the top rail comes out of the top slot.

    Clear as mud?

    The three individual panels are dealt with in the same sort of fashion.

    To install a panel, hold it as depicted in the diagram. Slide it up so that bottom edge of the top rail on the face frame engages the slot in the top of the removable panel. then rotate the bottom of the panel into the face frame, then lower it.

    To remove the panel, vice-versa...lift the panel up, rotate the bottom out, then lower the panel.

    Mongo

  • amy719
    16 years ago

    How essential is air? We have a tiled surround with an access panel in the other side of the wall on one end. Is this a problem?

  • dixielogs
    16 years ago

    you just reminded me of another reason we went with Sanijet! no access panel needed

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    For a whirlpool or jetted type of tub, a certain amount of free air is desired.

    Do a search for the type of tub you own. Most manufacturers have downloadable pdf files, that's where you'll find the specifics for your type of tub.

    How large of an access panel, and where the panel should be located.

    How much, if any, free air.

    Mongo

  • codnuggets
    16 years ago

    Thanks, Mongo, I understand your drawing perfectly. I have a drawer full of similar bar napkin sketches from my kitchen remodel, and I'll soon be amassing a pile of bathroom sketches to match. I'll keep this one as an idea as well.

  • tom_p_pa
    16 years ago

    Consider an air tub. Remote locate your air pump if you can, that is the best method and reduces sound. Most air pumps can be remote located about 12 to 16 feet away from the tub, depending on which manufacturer. This eliminates ALL access to equipment and air intake issues.

  • coffeebreak
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thank you Mongo! That is a perfect example and a great diagram. Have you ever done or seen any access hatches done with tile sides?

    I just looked in my installation manual and found this:

    "The blower must not be insulated and must have sufficient air space to permit proper functioning. Make sure there is sufficient air circulation."

    LOL Ummm... exactly, how much air is that? Can they get any more vague? :) Thanks for the heads up about the airflow issue! I hadn't thought about that.

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    With tiled sides I'll usually use magnets to hold the access panel in place.

    Depends on the tile, the design, and if the design allows an access panel to be hidden in plain site.

    If the access panel really can;t be hidden in the field tile , then sometimes I've installed the field tile, grouted it, then installed the access panel, and caulked it with color and texture matched caulk.

    If the motor ever needs to be accessed, a utility knife can be used to cut the caulk and remove the access panel.

    And as always, there are other options. Depends on the design.

    I always prefer an easy opening access panel versus something that requires effort and possible repair.

    Mongo

  • bill_vincent
    16 years ago

    Unfortunately, I'm not home, and won't be home till the weekend, and I'm on someone else's computer, so I don't have access to alot of things I do when i'm home. but if you do a search on access panels in this forum, good chance you'll come across atleast one or two threads where I explain, as well as show pictures of tiled access panels, both taken off, and set in place. If you don't find them, email me, and when I get home this weekend, I'll send it to you.

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    One on behalf of Bill, this is HIS work, I'm just carrying the link forward for him:

    Mongo

  • coffeebreak
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Bill and Mongo - I appreciate the explanations and the photos. We just worked out the exterior access panels (stucco) and will work on the interior ones next.

    Thank you both.... your words and pictures are ever so helpful!

    (Bill - I did do a search, but I wasn't able to find the right thread. I'll keep looking.)

  • thull
    16 years ago

    We don't have a jetted tub, but I did put in access. A buddy built (and I finished) a small inset cabinet. All that you have to do is pull it out.

    Mongo and Bill's solutions are probably better sized if you have a lot of stuff to get to, but ours looks cool.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Gallery posting

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    Thull, Nice pics!

    The photo series that I show at the beginning of this thread was originally planned similar to the way yours is...

    The apron frame was originally going to be fixed and the three removable panels were gong to be removable cabinets. The center one was going to be shallow with a door and hidden latch/hinges for storage, the two flanking ones were to be deeper to hold rolled up towels.

    Oh, how plans change. There is plenty of storage in the bath, so the plan changed for a cleaner look on the tub apron.

    One thing I really like about your cabinet is the contrasting color, it sets your cabinet up as an accent piece. I like it.

    Mongo

  • coffeebreak
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thull,
    I remember your bath pictures well! I thought your built-in niche was brilliant. We are considering using travertine in our shower and I just did a search to find out the skinny about it. Your bath popped up again. Thanks for taking the time to post your photos and to continue to provide feedback. I appreciate it!