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randekasp

Picture with knob

randekasp
10 years ago

Posted elsewhere, figuring out how to consolidate with pictures.
The question is: is this countertop too shallow? It seems a bit shallow for this traditional/ transitional bathroom. They can pretty easily cut the cabinet back 1/2 ". The cabinet is 24", so not huge loss. Sad: would have liked more counter instead of less cabinet! They can also pull the countertop out another 3/18 ", by increasing the thickness of the subway tile backsplash. There is a quarter round on top anyway, but it won't lie flat as it does elsewhere. Hard to make decisions with no sleep!

Found great knobs, btw! Not inexpensive, but not completely outrageous.

This post was edited by randekasp on Sat, Aug 24, 13 at 15:05

Comments (8)

  • enduring
    10 years ago

    Can you post another picture showing more detail of the design?

  • enduring
    10 years ago

    Yes the counter needs to be with more overhang in my opinion. I would want the knobs to be more receded from the counter so that tender skin isn't so likely to get bumped on them.

  • randekasp
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thank you! They are offering to put hardibacker behind the tile (subway) I am using for backsplash. I am using quarter round on top for detail. If they bump out backsplash with hardibacker, the backsplash will obviously protrude from wall. I a concerned that this will not be as clean as the rest of the room, will look a bit fussy. Posting picture of tile with quarter round elsewhere.

  • randekasp
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Putting all pictures in one post. :)

  • enduring
    10 years ago

    So are they suggesting they could bring the sink, faucet, and counter forward an inch, then put hardibacker (or drywall) up on the entire wall to hide the gap? Or just hardibacker (drywall) at the area that will meet the height of the wainscot? I agree it will look awkward. Is the hardibacker + depth of tile enough to give you the overhang on counter that you want? Is there enough room in the cabinet to bring the sink forward the amount needed?

    What else is on the wall that they want to bump out with hardibacker (drywall)? If the toilet is on that wall it may effect the rough-in and make it so the toilet will not fit. Or something else not fit. I say, if it is only the vanity on that wall then they need to finish the whole wall with a finished drywall so that the area looks correct as planned, if they don't want to replace the counter. AND only if it will work in all regards to bring the counter forward.

    Did they make the error in the measurement? Or did you? If they made the error, I might be wanting it corrected with another top. Of course it would depend on the circumstances.

    Another thought would be to bring the tile forward with the hardibacker (drywall) to cover the new gap (when moving the counter forward), and using more material to make a 3", or so, deep shelf across the entire wall. This would cover the bumpout, but may not be the look you are going for.

    This post was edited by enduring on Sat, Aug 24, 13 at 17:47

  • randekasp
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    So....I had them pull,out the counter and add another piece of drywall, bringing the counter out. Thank you for shelf idea. Backsplash tile will extend to sides, so did not work. But happy there was solution. I suppose if I can't live with losing 5/8 inch of wall behind vanity I have bigger problems than remodeling. There is nothing else on that wall that adding the drywall will affect.

  • enduring
    10 years ago

    great to hear of you solution. Did they cover the whole wall, vanity to ceiling? That type of treatment is what I was meaning in one of my remarks above.

  • randekasp
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Yes, the entire wall. Thank you for your great ideas!

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