emmi331, we retiled our large walk-in shower as a DIY project ten years ago, and we tiled over the existing tile, pretty much for the same reasons that Home Depot gave you. It worked out well for us.

FWIW, we took special care to ensure that there would be no path for moisture to get between the existing tile and the new tile that would provide an environment for a mold garden. That meant using epoxy grout, which had the added benefit of providing an environment that is more resistant than cementious grout is to the growth of mold on the surfaces that are exposed after the tiling was complete. You may have difficulty to convince the Home Depot installers to use epoxy grout, which requires a level of discipline to apply that many tile installers lack entiirely.

emmi331, we retiled our large walk-in shower as a DIY project ten years ago, and we tiled over the existing tile, pretty much for the same reasons that Home Depot gave you. It worked out well for us.

FWIW, we took special care to ensure that there would be no path for moisture to get between the existing tile and the new tile that would provide an environment for a mold garden. That meant using epoxy grout, which had the added benefit of providing an environment that is more resistant than cementious grout is to the growth of mold on the surfaces that are exposed after the tiling was complete. You may have difficulty to convince the Home Depot installers to use epoxy grout, which requires a level of discipline to apply that many tile installers lack entiirely.

What home depot contractors describe is not the proper way to tile. It's cutting corners. You will have problems down the road.

is it the ideal installation? absolutely not. But it can be done.
What I tell my customers all the time is this: The new tile and proper mortar will stick to what you put it on. That does not mean that what you put it on (old tile) will not eventually come off the wall. You have no way of knowing how solid the previous installation was and in what condition the studs are in.

That seems strange to me. When I've wanted to do it to save time, money or hassle the contractors all have warned me off. The only time I've done it, and that was just recently, was around an older tub. We took the tile off the wall and redid that. But the tile on the tub deck was 20 yrs old and in super shape so we put glue down and river rock over the top of it. Then we glued and screwed plywood to the tub face and put bamboo over it for a new face. Hopefully we won't come to regret it.

I've done a lot of tile and in the past have always removed the old prior to tiling the new. Particlarly on walls.

That being said, I am currently doing two small bathrooms each about 6'X'6 on the tiled floor. Both currently have tile on a concrete slab. The old tile is solid as a rock and I am going straight over it with the new tile. It will be my first time doing that but there should be no issues since I have a wonderful base for my new tile.

I would be hesitant to let them tile over my wall tile and I would consider letting them go over the floor if your current tile is solid, without cracks and shows no evidence of movement.

Tile over tile is okay in some circiumstances. The ONLY time I'll advocate it over wall tile is if the wall tile being covered is well set in an old fashioned mud job, with no cracks. Then they're right. You couldn't ask for a stronger wall. Other than that, tear it down and start from scratch. For floors, so long as the floor tile is in good shape (no cracks, no hollow spots), and just needs updating, then it's fine to go over it, SO LONG as it doesn't create height issues with doors, or anything else.

I agree with Bill. I completely remodelled my master bath without knowing until I started demo work that it was a mud job. This type of wall work is great, long lasting, though only found on old houses. So I just tore down the shower tiles/walls up to about 4 1/2 feet height as it covered around the bathroom and left the rest of the walls untouched. At that time I didn't know you could tile over tile if behind it was a mud job. I made sure that the wall was straight to the ceiling after applying durarock drywall. Of course I installed the plastic water seal sheet under that first. Then 24inch tiles over the durarock up to the celing. Really really tough job and lots of demo, but if I were to do it again, I would have done tile over tile with a smaller less heavy tile or thin tile. My 2nd bathroom I will do tile over tile with a thin mosaic tile in the shower and the rest of the bathroom I will probably do wainscoting.

I know this is an old post, but if anyone sees this - an curious since I do have a mud job. However, it seems odd to do it, and I concur it means that the tile will come up further on the tub, and against the walls where tile to tile will meet. Also, I doubt this is something you can do repeatedly - tile over tile? Concerned as well for doorway, means you might need to adjust other stuff. Same was suggested for the shower, to tile over the floor. It justs risky, and maybe a larger hassle if you have a water leak or something happens later...especially in the shower. I did not ask difference in price, so maybe I will check how much less would be charged to tile over. Leaving wall tile in place, so again, any thoughts from those with experience, do I risk damage beyond the floor if trying to rip out a mud job- they know it is , so assume planned to manage for it.

dandtitler is spot on. I would add though to make sure the wall is still solid. If you have loose tiles now, and are tiling over, you may have issues with that installation.

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"....Evidently an abrasive will be used on my subway tiles before adhesive is applied for the new tiles. Does this seem right - is it common to apply new tile over the old? Many thanks......" - Original Post

It's doable - many companies have products for making the switch. Ardex I think the leader right now with their primers and 8+9 product. Mapei's primer is a little weak I think but better than nothing. It's not always ideal but when you need to too their are ways to do it better I'm sure than your Home Depot crew is planning.

I forsee an angle grinder and some Mastic. And then a big mess in 3 months time.

I realize this is an old thread, however, I could use some input on our Corian shower base.

The Corian base was installed 13 years ago and has a hairline crack running on the diagonal from the center drain to the corner. We do not know why it cracked. The bathroom is on the second floor of our house over the family room. We have not noticed an water leaking.

The walls are tiled and in good condition. Ideally, we would like to have the cracked base removed and replaced with tile (ie. Mosaic or pebbles). We still have extra wall tile, so if the first and second row of wall tile (9"x13") needs to be removed so the base can be replaced, we can deal with that.

A tile installer recommended tiling over the Corian and claimed they can ensure a water tight base. Thoughts?

Have a Corian fabricator repair the shower pan. It's about 20x easier to keep clean than a tiled shower base.

NO smart tile setter would touch nor guarantee a crack repair. youre base cracked for a reason. Likely deflection if its over lumber / joist or a poorly supported install

time to start over or gamble with a band aid.

Sophie - I agree a Corian base is much easier clean, however, the Corian fabricator I contacted was concerned about the cause of the crack and said repairing a Corian shower base can be done, but since you are standing on the base vs a countertop which doesn't bear the same kind of weight he could not guarantee it

telluwhat - our feelings exactly.

thanks to both of you for your comments