"We supplied all the materials and have yet to pay him anything because he didn't want paid until the job was complete."

This was the best thing I read in this post.

First:

Installing the membrane, then putting a bead of sealant on top of the membrane, then bedding the top drain piece into the sealant and bolting the top piece down? This is wrong. The sealant should be applied underneath the membrane, then the top piece gets set "dry" on top of the membrane and gets bolted down.

Sealing between the membrane and the top piece of the drain seals the weep holes. That's wrong.

As to the slope, or lack thereof? The preslope itself will sit in compression underneath the membrane. Nothing gets bonded to the preslope. So "slope repairs" can sometimes be made to the preslope to shave high spots and fill low spots.

To fill low spots, you can make a portland slurry. Water plus powdered portland cement. Brush that in the low spots, then you can pack new deck mud (typically 5:1 sand:portland) over it, shape it, and reset the slope.

If the entire bed is questionable, it sometimes is easier to rip it all out out and start from scratch than it is to try to spot repair here and there.

Deck mud should be fairly lean with regards to the content of portland cement in the mix. So if you felt better removing the existing bed and starting over, you should be able to do so without damaging your Nobel membrane.

If you do rip it all out, you can reuse your membrane. Just take care unbolting the top drain and removing the sealant from between the drain and the top part of the drain.

Firs thing to do? Unclamp the drain right now and clean up the sealant. Even if you were to accept the preslope "as is" and move the project forward, you want that sealant gone. You'd then properly seal the underside of the membrane to the bottom part of the clamping drain, then re-bolt the top part of the drain down with no sealant between it and the membrane.

Hope that makes sense.

Tre, thanks. I thought it was awesome he didn't ask for money yet and even turned DH down when he mentioned it.

mongo, He actually did install the silicone under the membrane to the lower part of the drain. There was just so much of it, it oozed out everywhere.

I think it all makes sense. The slurry kinda acts like a bonding agent? I'll show this to DH and we'll decide how to proceeds. It would speed up the process to just repair what's there but I don't want to kick myself if it fails in a couple years.

One thing the installer thinks we should do (but I'm certain I've read on here it's a no-no) is after the preslope, liner and slope is finished add redgard to the top of it. I think that would be sandwiching in any moisture granted nothing should get past the redgard to beguin with. But I thought I'd ask.

I'll check back after we've decided how to proceed and how the installer deals with it.

Thanks!

This post was edited by itltrot on Mon, Jul 28, 14 at 15:17

It's really not advisable to add a vapor-impermeable membrane over a vapor-impermeable membrane with deck mud in between without modifying the drain to a divot.

You choose one path or you choose another. When you go from one path to another and back again, you can get lost.

Can you say "Moisture Sandwich?"

I think when we eventually build our forever home, we'll just bathe outside in the rain barrel. Seems easier than finding someone local who can put in a shower correctly!

I'm going to say no to moisture sandwiches!

DH and the installer talked a little yesterday and he seemed shocked that there were birdbaths but gave no indication that he wouldn't fix it.

He was unable to come over last night due to getting called out for his full time job. He is planning on coming tonight. I'll keep updating.

After a week of the installer being busy when we were available and us being busy when he was available we finally got the preslope fixed and liner installed. Flood testing currently 20 hrs in and holding water!

Now I'm stuck once again. I can not find lath for the curb in town. Lowes points me to chicken wire in the gardening section. DH had to go to OKC recently and stopped at HD and bought this http://m.homedepot.com/p/--2.5%20METAL%20LATH/202093395

But installer says its wrong stuff. What exactly am I looking for? Can anyone link me to the right stuff via HD or Lowes website?!

"Chicken wire" can be used....but expanded diamond lathe is preferable. It oughta be available at Homers' or at Lowes'. Check in the concrete section....

The lathe your husband bought was the correct material.

Remember, no nails in the top or on the inside face of the curb. Only on the outside.

Watch Harry.

I thought it had to be right because I couldn't find anything else that matched the descriptions I had read online.

I have Harry's tutorial printed out and refer to it regularly while the work is being done.

No worries, can't nail in the curb anyways since it's concrete!

"No worries, can't nail in the curb anyways since it's concrete!"

Not so fast sunshine! lol

You'd be amazed at the lengths people have gone to in order to screw up a shower. I've seen people drill and drive tapcons through the membrane and into a concrete curb.

You are right. I've had to remind DH a couple times when installing backer board not to screw it in low.

Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully the curb will get finished this weekend!