I'm sure the experts will weigh in here, but I find it astounding that you who you say are no pro and me (1st time bath remodeller), can see and understand that the cement board needs to go over the flange. How is it that the person doing the work - the supposed professional- couldn't see that.

My alcove tub has also just been installed. He put the cement board in up til about 2 feet above the edge of the tub. I'm assuming when he comes back on Monday, he will continue the cement board down over the flange.

Throw this numbnuts stupid ignorant fly-by-night SOB out on his A$$, and don't give him a dime!!

Is that clear enough? This jerk is obviously so numb that I wouldn't even allow him back to fix his screwups!!

Bill, I could really use your advice for the following questions:

1. What materials need to go between the base of the tub and the plywood subfloor?

2. The contractor told me he will install tiles right on the cement board. Is that right?

3. I asked the contractor to rip the old ceiling off and replace it with new drywall. But they said they will just install new drywall over the existing old ceiling to make it "stronger". Should I go with their suggestions?

Many thanks in advance for your help!

Here is another picture:
{{gwi:1450322}}

Is your tub the Kohler Hourglass? I'm looking for a nice deep tub and that one looks like it fits the bill.

Yes, it is Kohler Hourglass and it's indeed nice and deep!

Lily,

The tub...find out what kind it is, then go on line and read the manufacturer's installation instructions.

I bed the base of the tub in about a 2" thick layer of either mortar or plaster of paris. Lay out the mortar, place the tub, stand in the tub so it sinks nicely for full coverage and support. The thickness of martar also helps you to install the tub level if the floor is out of level.

There should be either 6-mil polyethylene or a layer of #15 tar paper between the framing and the existing cement board. The bottom edge of the poly should overlap the tub's flange.

The durock has a fastening schedule of either a nail or screw every 8".

What to do with what you have? It can't be tiled as-is, or you'll have water intrusion at the tile/flange junction. Remember, caulk is NOT a tool, so caulk will not work long-term in your existing situation.

So back to what to do? Sure, you can tear out the durock, furr out the walls, then do it properly. That would be my first choice.

If you have to keep what you have, you could add tar paper/poly OVER what you have, letting it hang over the flange. Then add another layer of cement board over the tar paper/poly, holding it just above the top of the flange so the thickness of the flange doesn't cause the bottom of the cement board to kick out. Use 2" fasteners (not drywall screws) through the new cement board, long enough to get purchase into the framing.

When you tile, the bottom course of tile will hang below the bottom of the cement board and come within a grout line width of the top of the tub. That gap will later be caulked.

Yes, you can tile directly over the cement board. They will need to tape and thinset the seams in the cement board first, though.

The ceiling...adding new drywall over the old to make it stronger? Or to make it easier on them?

Realize that what has been done so far is that the tub has been installed. On its own, the tub has been installed wrong.

Cement board has been hung. It's been hung wrong.

The tub and the board together? The board hasn't been installed correctly in relation to the flange. It's wrong.

The poly or tar paper that should hang over the tub's flange is no where to be seen. It's wrong too.

There have been too many liberties already taken with your installation. If the "ugly" part of your job is already this ugly, what will the supposedly pretty part (the tile) look like?

Read and heed. These guys will break you heart unless you come down hard on them today. Real hard. Then they may still break your heart. And your bathroom. And long term, your pocketbook when it comes time to make repairs.

I just want you to know that firing a crew is the hardest thing to do. Well, one thing is harder...that's dealing with the aftermath of an incompetent and uncaring crew.

Mongo

Mongo, I can't thank you enough for your insights and suggestions!!

It's beyond my comprehension that they would do such a lousy job after doing a good job with our kitchen remodeling (hopefully we didn't miss anything that was not done properly in our kitchen). Originally they wanted to be able to finish the whole bathroom in 2 days (Friday & Saturday). However, because DH and I were slow in deciding on the tiles, they didn't get to proceed with tiling and had to stop after installing the tub on Saturday, which gave us a chance to catch all the issues and get them corrected before they are hidden by the tiles.

We were hoping to get the bathroom done before my parents travelling from the other side of the world to the US for the first time to visit us. With less than 2 weeks left and with so many things being done wrong so far, I see little chance that the bathroom will be ready in time for my parents' arrival. But I know my parents would want me to get things done right instead of rushing through it and then deal with serious consequences later. So we are going to ask the contractor to correct all the mistakes they have made so far before proceeding with the project. Hopefully, the corrections can be done without any damages to the tub and the tub/shower plumbing which they have installed so far ...

So we are going to ask the contractor to correct all the mistakes they have made so far before proceeding with the project.

I know you want to be civil but don't ask -- TELL, demand, insist, and if necessary, (be prepared for worst case scenario)...remove them from your house.
Susan ~

Called the contractor today and told them to fix all the problems before proceeding the project. Will see what they say tomorrow after inspecting the job done by their crew.

Formosalily, what happened with the contractor? Did they fix their mistakes, or did you have to kick them out?!

Karen_76, I posted the follow up story at the link below......unfortunately, things have not really gotten better with re-installation...

Here is a link that might be useful: Follow up post