Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
shasta_tx

Shower pan

shasta_tx
15 years ago

The shower in my master bath fell apart. It is torn out and I would like to build it back.

The plumber laid out the new liner and installed the drain. But, when I felt of the area around the drain, there is a drop off. It doesn't slope, it just drops off.

I lifted the liner up and this is what it looks like: (tried to insert a picture but it didn't work)

Should a preslope be done underneath the liner? I saw a product by Noble called proslope. Could I put it around the drain and reattach the liner?

And for the shower pan, do you recommend that I make one out of mud or order a custom fit solid base? How much are the solid bases like Corian? I looked at the Kerdi shower tray, but my drain is not in the center, so it won't work. From one wall to the center of the drain is 19" and from the other wall to the center of the drain is 31".

If I do one out of mud, I saw a product called Quick-Pitch that is supposed to help make the mud shower pan "goof proof". Has anyone used them before?

How hard is it for an amateur to do a mud shower pan and get it done correctly?

Comments (11)

  • MongoCT
    15 years ago

    You should have a smooth and consistent slope UNDERNEATH your membrane. That results in your membrane being sloped.

    Max slope is 1/2" per foot, minimum is 1/4" per foot.

    Doing a mud pan isn't terribly difficult, but it needs to be fully researched so you know the step-by-step process before you start mixing your mud. When you have an uncentered drain a mud bed is normally the easiest approach.

    Never used Quick Pitch.

  • shasta_tx
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Thanks for the response Mongo.

    I have seen books about doing the shower pan with the consistency and ingredients for the mud (5-1 or 7-1 sand & portland cement). I saw one video on You Tube, and the guy was using Quick Pitch guides on top of the liner to get the slope right. I see that you don't like that product.

    I have gotten an estimate for mudding the whole shower to make it tile-ready. It is quite expensive. If it's not too terribly hard, I'd like to try to do it myself.

  • MongoCT
    15 years ago

    It's not that I don't like Quick Pitch, it's that I've never used it. It may very well be a great product.

    Here's a "how to" by Harry Dunbar. I never use admix in deck mud, but I don't feather the bed down to 3/8" at the drain ether.

    Mongo

  • PRO
    Avanti Tile & Stone / Stonetech
    15 years ago

    OK...I use a "Quick Pitch" whenever I can. Works great....and for $35...it's worth it. HAving said all that, it's ESSENTIAL that you do a Pre-Slope UNDER the liner before the Quick Pitch Kit is installed. Any questions, post them here.....

  • just_julie
    15 years ago

    Check out the website below (if you haven't already done so). One thing I read there that I never would have thought of on my own.... test runs! Make a little 'faux-pan' and mix everything up for your pre-slope UNDER the liner.... install it, take it out and do it again a few times. (before it dries, of course!)

    By the time you do your real shower in your home, your skills will be much better.

    btw-the mud mix is around 20 bucks... something I'd gladly spend to make sure my shower is perfect.

    Here is a link that might be useful: John Bridge Tile Forum

  • shasta_tx
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Thank you everyone for your responses! I love the idea of practicing! Also, thank you for the links.

    I want to learn as much as I can about building a shower. If nothing else, at least I will know how it's supposed to be done, so that if someone else does it, I know it's done right. I really want to try to do it myself.

    So, Lazarususa, you do like the Quick-Pitch. I saw where someone else really liked using them too.

    I think I need to buy a book with step-by-step deatails of the process. I did read that the tiles are going to need to be flush with the drain when they are laid.

    The plumber installed the new copper pipes for my body sprays and then told me that he went ahead and put in the new liner and drain. He did that without a pre-slope being done. What should I do now? I saw a product called Proslope that will cut-to-fit and fit around the drain. Can I use that and then lay the liner back down on top of it? Or do I need to remove the liner and drain and start over? I didn't know the plumber was going to install that. The floor underneath it is level and then just drops off around the drain.

    This shower wasn't done right in the first place by the builder. When it was torn out, it became evident that the tile was set right on top of sheetrock.

    It will be wonderful to have a shower in my master bath again!

    I am doing one thing at a time. I also have a separate tub in the master bath. But it's just a regular porcelin tub on a wooden platform. I would like to remove it and add a jetted tub after I tackle the shower issue. :)

  • MongoCT
    15 years ago

    Shasta,

    Try reading this through a couple of times.

    There are several areas that you really need to be familiar with before you start.
    -Basic framing of the shower, to include blocking between the studs at the floor level.
    -Possibly having to notch your studs in the corners to accommodate the added thickness from the corner folds of membrane.
    -How to fold the membrane in the corners.
    -How to set the height of your drain.
    -How to build your curb, how to drape the membrane over the curb, how to not puncture the membrane except for on the outside wall of the curb.
    -how high the membrane needs to go up the walls.

    Again, those are just for starters. Read through the article, to me it's one of the best ones out there. My difference wit Byrne is that mesh is not required within the layer of mud. No need for it in my opinion.

    But it's a great article with great photos.

    Mongo

  • bill_vincent
    15 years ago

    Check out the website below (if you haven't already done so). One thing I read there that I never would have thought of on my own.... test runs! Make a little 'faux-pan' and mix everything up for your pre-slope UNDER the liner.... install it, take it out and do it again a few times. (before it dries, of course!)

    Rather than using actual mortars, though, for the practice, pick up some sand, wet it down, and use that. Then you don't have the stress of using it before it hardens, and you can do it over and over again at your leisure.

  • shasta_tx
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Great article Mongo! That is the first time I've seen a demo where someone did the wall tile first and then went back and did the floor mud!

    I am thinking about buying Michael's book along with "Tile Your World" to read and use as references.

    Bill, I love the idea of practicing with sand! That would save a lot of mess that would have to be thrown away after a some practice runs!

  • MongoCT
    15 years ago

    It's been well over ten years, maybe 12, that I've been tiling the walls before the floor. To me it's easier, faster, and more foolproof.

  • bill_vincent
    15 years ago

    Same here.