Far be it from me to argue with those giving that class!! (especially considering the fact I'll be going to it myself this october)

Mine was installed this way also. Floor heats great, so no worries.

Thanks for the reassurances, Bill and ladycfp. I'll trust that the installer heard correctly and will leave things as is (that is, unless Mongo chimes in here to disagree...).

Bill, are you heading down South this October for the class, or do they give classes up your way? My installer speaks very highly of the class. He had done several Kerdi installations prior to going to the class, but said he still learned quite a lot and it was worth going to. And last but not least, he said the food was terrific!

No, I'm headed down to S.C. as part of a group of the pros from John Bridge's site. I was supposed to go down last year with the bunch that went down, but at the time I was involved in a large project that I couldn't break away from. This year, I get the feeling that won't be a problem. :-)

I disagree completely!

Wait...what was the question?

Oh...never mind. I'm still suffering the trauma of the Red Sox returning Julio Lugo to the lineup for last night's game against Cleveland.

Ditra can indeed go over the heating mats. No worries.

With your guy having attended Schluter Shkool, he sounds conscientious. But I'll throw the following out anyway:

The only other thing I'll add regarding your installation is that code requires that a shower pan hold 2" of water depth should the drain become plugged. We normally refer to this as you need 2" of elevation between the top of the curb and the top of the drain.

Now the curb can be a traditional one, like a raised one at the shower door. Or the curb can be a gradual roll-over hump that I've done fr ADA bathrooms. Or the curb can be non-traditional like yours, and the 2" of drop can be made up of sloping floor.

Regardless, if you plug the shower drain and fill the shower so that you have 2" of standing water depth at the drain, water should not be able to leak out of the bathroom. Anywhere in the bathroom.

As an aside, to make your Ditra floor waterproof, a strip of Kerdi should be run over the seams in the Ditra. To seal the Kerdi/Ditra joint on the floor at the shower door, the shower floor Kerdi should overlap the bathroom floor Ditra by a couple of inches.

To seal the floor-meets-wall areas, I've taken a 5" wide strip of Kerdi, creased it lengthwise and run 2-1/2" of it on the floor and the other 2-1/2" of it up the wall, behind the baseboard.

Don't forget the toilet, the flange will need to be sealed.

These tidbits may or may not be applicable to you. Your installer might have already addressed them. But I'm in a blabby mood today so I typed too much.

Mongo. Can you combine the 2? 1 inch of floor slope and a 1 inch gradual, roll over hump?

I'm thinking yes. No?

Yes.

For curiosity, how do you seal the toilet flange? (I'm all done, so that ship has sailed, but I did seal the ditra and the shower curb to floor, etc.,. mostly for wetness that may linger around the shower on the floor). But that Ditra seam to the right of the entrance jumped out at me right away as crying out for a piece of Kerdi band!

For curiosity, how do you seal the toilet flange?

Kerdi-fix

But that Ditra seam to the right of the entrance jumped out at me right away as crying out for a piece of Kerdi band!

If you're trying to waterproof the floor, you're right-- it DOES need a piece of KErdiband. Even if you're not trying to waterproof it, it wouldn't hurt, anyway, if you have it already.

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm printing out this thread for our general contractor to follow-up on with the installer. I will make sure that the recommedations get implemented.
Pity the poor homeowners who don't know what a great resource this forum is!

I just put together ccvp certification my new Perfect Flame Two Lid Grill model# 271575. After reading all of these posts, I went down to Lowes with my receipt in hand cep certification and asked them about all the issues. The info I got from a service manager was that the grills that were recalled had a different lid than mine and that my grill would not catch on fire, OK so that is not an issue, but all the reports of cracked burners & rusting got me thinking some more. Look I don't know if there is a grill out there that won't rust, but I am moving to Oregon where it rains like cisco braindumps every day & I just can't help but wonder if my $549 grill will become a rusty hunk of junk in a year. Anyway the manager is going to call me tomorrow and tell me if i can bring it back for a store credit or not. I bought it 5 months ago, just now put it together for the summer BBQ I figure I mcitp course will just spend the rest of my night doing some research on their other grills. Good Luck everyone.