Gap between vanity and wall

11 years ago

I'm on the hunt for a vanity as part of a gut remodel of a tiny master bathroom.

Current vanity is 24" wide x 18" deep and the new vanity has to be pretty much the same size.

However, the current vanity has a 2" gap between vanity and wall (see photo) -- and I would like to get rid of this gap and stop dropping stuff down there!

I have found 26" wide vanities that come with vanity tops -- thoughts on whether this would work?
http://www.fairmontdesigns.com/bath-collections/item/vanities/tux-26in-vancombo.html

The width of 26" seems perfect to bridge the gap; my concern is whether it would work with the existing sink plumbing. In other words the sink pipe is about 14" from the wall, and the 26" vanity comes with a sink so the sink drain would be centered ~13" from the wall. I am not sure how much "play" there is with sink plumbing, if it would be OK to have the sink drain an inch or so off-center from where the pipe goes into the wall.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Featured Answer

User
Original Author

10 years ago

Just wanted to close the loop in this one -- we went with a 24" vanity centered on the existing plumbing, and then added a 2" filler piece at the left side to eliminate the gap between vanity and wall.

For the vanity top we did a custom piece of cultured marble that was 26-1/2" or so -- goes flush to the wall and then the sink bottom and faucets are offset slightly to the right..

Very happy with the result; the trim piece is not noticeable and the top of the sink doesn't look off-center even though the sink faucet is not exactly in the center of the countertop. We did put a hand towel hook on the wall so that may help in making it not noticeable.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions, the filler piece really worked well for us!

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Comments (10)

GreenDesigns
11 years ago
What is the distance from the center of the toilet to the side of the vanity. It looks tight--below the legally required room.

24" vanities are much easier to find and cheaper. Use one of them, and just place it against the left wall like should have been done with that one.
shapco
11 years ago
Could you use a 24" vanity with a 2" filler piece and then a 26.5" vanity top? This would let you keep the plumbing where it is now, but fill in the 2" space so things don't fall down there.
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User
Original Author
11 years ago
Good ideas, thank you!

GreenIdeas, about your comment:
24" vanities are much easier to find and cheaper. Use one of them, and just place it against the left wall like should have been done with that one.

If I do this, then I will still be offsetting the sink drain about 2" from where the sink pipe goes into the wall -- is this feasible?
weedyacres
11 years ago
There's no Grand Rule of Plumbing that says the sink drain has to do a sharp 90 and back directly into the wall. A few PVC fittings and you can offset however needed.

Simple jog to the left:

a little more complicated dance:

You get the idea...
lascatx
11 years ago
Every plumbing connection is likely to require some degree of adjustment. Something small like that is part of the job.
User
Original Author
10 years ago
One more photo, better view of the filler/ trim piece at left.
raehelen
10 years ago
Evelyn Ann, so nice of you to follow up on your posts! I remember this one. Great job on the reno! I notice you have used tile for your surbase, exactly what we are in the process of doing right now...literally! How did you finish off the top of the tile? My DH just cut down floor tiles, and we are using the factory finish for the top, not buying a separate bull-nosed edge piece. I am assuming he will apply a little caulking between wall and tile at the top. Curious as to what you did, and if you have a really close-up photo? Thanks, Rae
jacqueline5
10 years ago
Looks fantastic!
User
Original Author
10 years ago
Raehelen, we did use bullnose pieces as the baseboard, and then just caulked the gap (used Laticrete caulk color-matched to the grout color). That worked well since we also used the bullnose up the wall for the edge of the tub surround.

The tile we used was pretty thick, so the only downside is that dust tends to collect on the top surface.

I think if your tile is relatively thin the factory cut plus some caulk will be just fine. Good luck!