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Proposed Shower Remodel , Need Suggestions

Posted by makes1 (My Page) on
Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 0:37

Ok I'm wanting to rework my master bath shower . What I have is a 25 yr old fiberglass shower about 3'6" wide with a very cruddy glass door . There is about a 1'1/2 dead space . Here is what I want to do , need input .
1- Tear out & chunk shower & glass door
2- tear out the dead space , move the water pipes and make the shower with what ever space is there approx 5 to 6' x 4' x 8' high
3- want to use cultured marble for the base & 3 sides & would like to use the same on ceiling , just don't like Sheetrock ceiling over shower
4- just wanna use a custom Shower Curtain , no doors or glass
5- want to mount 2 recessed lights in shower and paint them with flex seal to prevent rust
6- install new plumbing fixtures with shower head & 2 body sprays on wall & maybe a rain head in ceiling between 2 recessed light

House on conventuals so no problem moving plumbing or drain , I'm aware of the GFCI Laws on the lights . Anybody see any problems with any this & best guess estimated cost ? Thanks


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RE: Proposed Shower Remodel , Need Suggestions

Don't see any problems if you have a good cm fabricator because it is made by hand in the shop. Each shop uses different resins. Looks and quality can vary. I found cm to more expensive than tile in my area.

If you have a custom sized shower pan it will be more expensive, ie one that the shop does not have a mold for. If they make a mold for your size shower base that has integrated sides it will cost you more, but it is the best way to go. If they make a base without integrated sides and just put the walls on top, then you need a shower pan liner underneath - and then you might as well do a tile shower pan at that point. You really need to determine your shower base first. Shops vary as far as what molds they have in stock.

CM prices vary from region to region.

You still need to prep the walls with a plastic moisture barrier and then cbu on top of that and I don't care what any cm fabricator says. Water at some time WILL get through the caulk and get behind the cm shower walls. You must diligently maintain the caulk lines. A cm shower is NOT totally maintenance free. The installation is VERY critical in how well the pieces are plumb, straight, true, overlap, etc. The assumption that gaps can just be filled with caulk will end up in shower failure.

Use lights that are approved for a wet zone above a shower.

CM is heavy so the shop may need to make a thinner panel for the ceiling.

You just need to visit some cm shops and get some quotes. Ask how thick their gel coat is and what brand of resin they use. Some resins hold up better to cracking and yellowing. Also, each shop has a different look because cm is made by hand.

You know, it you did do a glass enclosure, this could be a steam shower too. Food for thought!

You may be shocked at the price because you have a large shower 60-72L x 48W x 96H including ceiling.

This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 16:56


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