Caulk the open joint around the window with Schluter Kerdi Fix. Then tile a border around the window. Caulk the space between the tile lip and window with silicon caulk that matches your tile or grout - this is the same silicon caulk that you will use in the corners and along the acrylic showerpan or tub if you have one. You will have to go to a tile supply house or order online for Kerdi Fix.

This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Wed, Jan 29, 14 at 14:20

Anna, thank you for your response!

I'm trying to figure out where the tile boarder would be placed. Here are some add'l, close up pictures. The existing tile does not end evenly around all sides of the window and the tile is raised.

I would have a solid surface fabricator custom build head/jamb molding, sill, and apron. The head/jamb molding would lay on the tile and return to the window and would be installed after the sill. Caulk it in place heavily.

This detail should have been figured out by the tile man before a single tile was laid.

And I'll add, make sure the sill slightly tilts down to the shower wall for water to drain.

Thank you Trebruchet. I've read your response several times and I think I understand. How much of an overlay on the tile do you think is needed? Just enough to cover the edge of the tile? I'm trying to avoid a large border.

I'm pretty upset about the window, a lot of planning and $$ has gone into this bath.

Would the contractor's initial idea have worked if it was in place prior to the tile (wood border wrapped in PVC. Tile butt up against border?)

Today, the contractor brought over a PVC edge/corner piece of molding to apply over the edge of the tile and to meet the window. It barely meets the edge of the window on the top right since the opening is uneven all around. Is that solution feasible?

Do you know what material they used as a tile backer board?

I just hate any situation where caulk is used as the primary method to shed water.

The board used above the window (which is above the shower head) is different and looks like green board. I'll find out today for sure.

From the top of the winow down, it is stamped Hardibacker.

"How much of an overlay on the tile do you think is needed?"

Merkx:

I would want a 1/2" minimum contact lipping over and siliconed to the tile.

The contractor's original idea may have worked, I just don't like it.

Trebruchet, I really appreciate your advice. The granite is being templated this weekend and I'm going to have them look at the window as well. Thank you.

THAT LOOKS GREAT! Did the tile guy have anything to warn against or comment on regarding water getting into the junction of the tile moulding and the window frame? How did he caulk the junction?

That looks really good, sort of like a window niche! LOL Is that just regular pencil rail or is it L-shaped underneath?

What tile did you use? This might work for my Sister's reno.

I too am pleased with the results. Here's another picture of the bathroom but unfortunalely, not the best quality picture.

The window frame is a 3/4 in pencil with a miter cut on the corners. The tile is Naxos Pietra Sacra. The color is Celio.

I'll have to ask the specifics of the waterproofing method he used. He discussed a few options but I don't know what he decided to do in the end.

This is a guest bathroom and the shower is rarely used....maybe 10 times per year.

Very nice!

I have the same problem and this is a great solution! Question one: How is the trim attached to the exiting tile at the window?

Question two: And does anyone have an opinion whether I can use this same trim around the baseboard between floor and wall tile.

"Question one: How is the trim attached to the exiting tile at the window?"

You have to ask the person who attached it. I have had mixed results getting this information, even on commercial jobs.

"Question two: And does anyone have an opinion whether I can use this same trim around the baseboard between floor and wall tile."

If the detailing is appropriate, sure.

I'm so glad I found this thread because I have a similar problem. We just bought our house a month ago.

There's a window in the shower, above the tub. The previous owners had sealed the window shut with silicon caulk. I knew the grout would need touching up but this morning I tried opening the window to see how secure it was, and it opened right up. It wasn't even locked let alone sealed. There also is no extractor fan in there (having one installed this month) so now I'm really anxious that the wall is full of water. We can't afford a reno right now. Can anyone recommend the best stop gap solution to limit damage while we save up for a reno?

Merkx....A fabulous fix! Thanks for posting!

Merkx - could you send me a few close up photos of finished framing around the bathroom window. I have a similar issue with how to finish my BR window. thanks owenpga@comcast.net

We are having our bathroom redone in about a week and around the recessed window we are having slabs of travertine used as a border, since our contractor said that there's no seems or grout lines that could develop leaks. He says that he does this all the time. I will post of picture in a couple weeks once the bathroom is completed!

furring out the window unfortunately is not an option. bathroom is extremely small so any outward furring would run into toilet. as it is now , the durarock butts up to the frame evenly ,so it's smooth to the window cavity . the other issue i'm found today as i started to install durarock is the frame is 3/8 " off . trying to figure out how to get it vertical .