If there are furring cuts in the Insulpink, use a product, such as Owens Foamular, that comes with a tongue and groove (also called shiplap) edge profile. The method Owens suggests works well--as long as you'll settle for below Code insulation (in most places) and your walls will have no receptacles, switches, or lights.

For reference, go to Building Science Corporation.

Maybe they are trying to steer you into buying their high-priced basement finishing system.

I would just go ahead and glue the XPS to the wall, and the install your framing in front of the XPS. Insulate the framing with unfaced FG.

Otherwise, you could build your wall about 2 inches out from the masony wall, install ALL of your wires and cabling, and then have closed cell foam insulation installed. They "blow" it in with specialized equipment that mixes two ingredients at the gun nozzle, and it expands to fill all the cracks and gaps.

Not sure about Owens Corning, but Dow has some simple steps on their site:

Interior Basement Wall (Foam and Stud Wall Framing) - Installing STYROFOAMÂ Square Edge, Tongue & Groove, SCOREBOARDÂ, Super TUFF-RÂ, or TUFF-R

1. Install insulation over interior side of basement wall. Foam insulation may be held in place temporarily using spots of compatible adhesive.

2. Build conventional wood stud wall that firmly presses foam insulation against basement wall.

3. Install unfaced batts in stud cavities.

4. Install drywall over studs.

5. Tape and finish drywall according to manufacturer's directions.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dow Link

I just glued 1.5 foamular to my walls. I used a lot of polyurethane glue. (This is foam safe.) I then built a 2x4 wall inside of that. I haven't decided if I will insulate with fiberglass also. I'm a little worried about the long term reality of condensation and fiberglass in a basement wall.

My house was built in 1924. The walls were so imperfect--gluing the foam on was a trick.

The owens (I agree..clueless) told me vapor would condense in the dead air space. I found them technically clueless..just call takers reading from sheets.

I haven't decided if I will insulate with fiberglass also. This works fine, according to Buildling Science Corp. It's now one of my preferred methods. The best, but usually the most costly, is closed cell spray on the walls.

"Dead space" doesn't' create condensation. Condensation in a home occurs when warm air meets a cold surface; or when the humidity is past the saturation level.

But to have warm area (or cold air warm surface) you have to have air - and isn't that what you have in dead spaces?

The foam against the wall ensures there is no meeting of cold to warm air in the "dead space", as long as you're sure to attach the foam securely to the wall and seal any openings.

I would go with either xps or fiberglass, no need for both. Take the money you saved and spray foam the rim/band joist area. They have DIY kits for this online.

Chris,

Can you post some of the DIY links you're thinking of for the spray foam. Love to find that for the rim joists and air sealing in the attic. Thanks.

What does the rim/band joist area mean?

Lewis,

Google "spray foam insulation diy" numerous links available, its still expensive.

Mowers,

The rim and band joists are the boards that your floor joists connect too. Here is a picture