The crack, which is in a typical location, must be repaired.

It can be injected with polyurethane or epoxy, which can be done from the inside.

Epoxy Injection stops water flow through typical foundation crack Photo: Heather Joy Investments Ltd.

I don't understand though whether you're intending to excavate around the foundation to install weepers or are they already there.

In my area, all new homes are required to have weepers that go into a sump in the basement that is then pumped out onto the yard. The purpose is to reduce the load on municipal storm drains.

What you are describing as a "collector" is what we used to call a drywell. I think it's a lot simpler and more effective to create an inside sump, then drain the water to the surrounding soil through pipes barely under the surface.

The interlock patio should ideally be reset with a slope.

If aside from the specific issues you mention there doesn't seem to be a water problem and you don't want to bust the budget, I'd be inclined to let it go. Just be sure to limit the damage that could be caused by minor flooding by using water tolerant materials. That would include no installed carpeting, baseplates set on one-inch strips of extruded polystyrene, no fibrous insulation.

As well, ensure that the eavestrough and downspouts are working properly; extending the downspouts at least ten feet out--underground--is a cheap preventive too.

This post was edited by worthy on Fri, Oct 3, 14 at 10:37

Grading the patio will be the most difficult task here for two reasons:
-I actually have to regrade the soil beneath it because ultimately the water will be driven to the foundation by the soil not by the gravel or the sand that are under the brick of the patio
-on top of the above the deck is rised deck and it is build above the patio

If you live in an area that gets much water at all, that dry well will have to be VERY large to be of any value.

I am not entirely sold to the underground french drain and dry well. I have read somewhere an opinion that you have to find out how the water enters your house. I have ordered on inspection camera(cheap USB but HD 720p) and an infrared camera. Because this is a finished basement I need to know which walls to cut and where to look behind the drywall for the source of that smell. If there is no footing level infiltration I may give up on the underground french drain and opt for draconic grade level water management. That would be french drain around the house and grading the yard properly. Fixing the patio will also be done.

source of that smell.

Easy.

Primarily, from the mould growing wherever the water from the crack under the window is running to.

Secondarily, from either the concrete wall as a result of condensation on the wall. Or from any fibrous insulation behind a vapour barrier above grade.

I was trying to say that it is going to difficult to locate the exact location with a finished basement. Everything is behind drywall and insulation

PF: I think it is going to be nearly impossible to determine for sure where the leak is. As you know, water is very tricky and could be starting from and ending in many directions. What I would do is take this in steps. Since you know of a crack in the basement wall, why don't you seal this (from the inside or outside) and then see if you still are taking any water. It sound likes there is not a lot of water geting in, and this may fix your problem without having to dig down to the foundaition around the whole house.

Thanks auggie but the problem here seems to be the wall itself which is cider blocks (concrete bricks) and that being the case it means that dealing with the crack from inside might not be effective since these sort of bricks are hallow and can take water inside from the above bricks...I guess I will have to see where the water enters the wall from outside. I am thinking about grading the patio and the yard correctly first to see if this stops the problem
If it doesn't then I will have to dig and implement the above solution