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noctua_gw

Ridiculously insulating a basement

Noctua
10 years ago

So i have been reading scary stuff like this
http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf

And am wondering about basement super insulation.

I was on building science and found a few very interesting posts.

One on 4 inch XPS on the exterior of the foundation wall.

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/enclosures-that-work/high-r-value-wall-assemblies/high-r-foundation-11-xps-insulation-on-exterior/?searchterm=xps

and one about 2 inch interior XPS with 1 inch air and 2inch foilback

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/enclosures-that-work/high-r-value-wall-assemblies/high-r-foundation-5-xps-foil-faced-polyisocyanurate/?searchterm=xps

The interesting thing is the foil back does better than the 2inch ICS forms according to this page
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/enclosures-that-work/high-r-value-wall-assemblies/high-r-foundation-13-insulated-concrete-forms-icf/?searchterm=XPS%20Insulation%20on%20the%20Exterior%20of%20Foundation%20Wall

According to those pages 4in is R-value of R-20 and results in heating energy loss of 19.43 MBtus

2in with air and Foil is approximately R-23 predicted annual heating energy loss is 15.8 MBtus

2in forms are R-20 and has a predicted annual heating energy loss of 16.7 MBtus

So with out knowing much about the subject can 4in exterior be combined with 2in interior and foil?
What concerned might arise about condensation points or moisture lock?
Other than cost barriers is there anything else to be concerned about?

Comments (5)

  • worthy
    10 years ago

    I can't find your first reference, though I did find the site. Exactly what is "scary?" And what is "ridiculous?

    The pros and cons of both Building Science systems are discussed in the documents.

    What do you mean by "moisture lock"? With either system, condensation is not a problem, unless perhaps you are building in Antarctic cold.

    The URL you pasted for foil-covered polyiso doesn't work. The extra energy efficiency you quote has to be balanced against the much greater cost for polyiso vs. XPS.

    The biggest drawbacks to installing exterior insulation--and I have done it as part of a waterproofing retrofit--are adequately protecting the abovegrade portion of the insulation in a cost effective manner and, in certain regions, termite control. Installing interior foam board is simpler, but contrary to the Building Science schematics, I would frame toward the interior to provide concealed spaces for wiring and utility boxes.

    Here are the two systems the OP is questioning and wants to combine:

    This post was edited by worthy on Wed, Aug 7, 13 at 11:20

  • Noctua
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks for the reply.

    Constant heat loss through my wall so my energy bill is always high is scary to me.

    I was looking at some of configurations on Building science and some are listed as "not all configurations recommended"
    so i thought i would ask here about the configuration i was looking at.

    I was looking at combining the 4 inch exterior with the 2 inch interior with airspace and foil-back foam, not the $inch and ICF that you pictured... i will try to post pics.

    Please note the below image was not part of my original post but would grateful to have it be considered in this question.

    The reason for building out is to have somewhere to run electrical in the walls. If the foil back does nothing as you say maybe i would be better with 2inch & fiberglass or worst case just the fiberglass.

    On the outside i was hoping to parge or use cultured stone, not sure these are good solutions.

    As to ridiculous i just thought approx R43 basement walls might be a tad on the ridiculous side, maybe not though...sort of new to this stuff.

    Here is a link that might be useful: This lets me post pictures easy.

  • Noctua
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Ooops DP.

    This post was edited by Noctua on Wed, Aug 7, 13 at 12:58

  • worthy
    10 years ago

    I wouldn't even try to retrofit XPS on the exterior. (Unless you like hand digging for fitness and fun!)

    So on the interior, the simplest, cheapest effective way to insulate is to put foamboard on the foundation followed by fibrous insulation to meet the minimum R value in your climate zone. Around the rim you can either foam (closed cell is best) or cut to fit XPS and seal with caulk or handheld foam.

    For cold regions, one inch of XPS should be sufficient; for very cold regions, two-inches would be safer.

    Building Science Corp. Climate Map

    Here is a link that might be useful: Building Science Corp.: Basement Insulation Systems (pdf)

  • worthy
    10 years ago

    Rather than smothering the basement in R43, you might get more effective savings abovegrade sealing all cracks.

    As a matter of interest, the first US house built to PassivHaus standards boasted an R-56 foundation with 14 inches of sub-slab EPS insulation, R-60 walls and roof and triple-glazed Thermotech windows with foam-filled fiberglass frames.

    {{!gwi}}

    Here is a link that might be useful: Building Science Corp.: Basement Insulation Systems (pdf)

    This post was edited by worthy on Wed, Aug 7, 13 at 15:41

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