Knowing that sound proofing is impossible, you still have two tools available. One is decoupling, or breaking the path of sound transmission. Rugs do this. Suspended ceilings do it too. Flexible mounts to separate drywall from studs is another way, not in a floor but perhaps in a ceiling.

The other tool is mass. Cramming lots of insulation into joist space helps. Layers of paper board like homasote works well between joists if cut tightly, hold in with drywall nails and use spray foam to seal gaps.

Mass in respect to sheet goods' resonant frequencies lead to another layer of drywall on a ceiling being especially good if the two drywall layers are of different thicknesses, and even gooder with three layers, the middle one being a third different thickness of rock or perhaps a layer of homasote, OSB, plywood, or hardieboard. These layers could be hidden behind a decorative ceiling. This sort of layering is very effective.

And be sure to never buy your kid a drum kit unless you first build a guest house.

We are beyond the drum set stage! I don't want drywall in the area. I have a dropped ceiling in the other part of my basement....there are rugs above it. I guess I can see how much a difference it makes by moving the radio. Having rugs in the upper family room is not an option though. I think a lot of the sound is coming from the darn metal duct anyway!

Anyone know about the roxil sound stuff...is it only meant for side walls in steel studs?

As noted above, mass or isolation. Or both.

Unfortunately, whatever you do, flanking transmission--that is, through the wall /floor junction will still carry enough apparent sound at certain frequencies to virtually cancel out improvements to the ceiling.

I once tore down the ceiling of a finished basement apartment to fill the joist space with Roxul. Not the slightest detectable difference. (Maybe an instrument would register a bit.) Ditto fiberglass.

Two layers of drywall on resilient channels would theoretically help. However, in practice, just one or two screws too long will short out the benefits.

Your best bet would be Quietrockor equivalent or Green Glue.

Table from City of Vancouver Noise Control Manual

This post was edited by worthy on Sat, Jul 12, 14 at 20:05

thanks worthy, I did not want to waste $$ on Roxul if it would not work. I need a dropped ceiling here..oh well...

In the main part of our basement we have suspended ceiling acoustic tiles then 10" or so of fiberglass (filled in the entire joist space) and then subfloor / felt paper, and hardwood on floor up top - we don't hear TV downstairs at all.

On the more extreme end, we built a noise - isolated home theater with extra wall mass, green glue products and suspended/isolated walls with 4 layers total of drywall, it's possible in that room with multiple large subwoofers and reference range sound to have a LOUD movie going and hear nothing upstairs where the same system in my last home (with standard construction) would literally rattle stuff on the dressers two floors up. So you have to adjust your sound "proofing" according to the level (and TYPE) of noise being generated.

Sound flanking is absolutely critical so placing insulation just in a few spots will likely do very little.

mine will likely be akin to your first home...so maybe the ceiling tile will help. It seems right now, to my ear upstairs that the sound is mostly coming from a heat/ac register in the floor. Its already covered with insulation...maybe I can put more around it.

Question...I do not want to drywall the ceiling area here however do you think drywalling just the area immediately above where the tv will be would make a difference...I'd have my joists, one with a duct for heat/ac) , fg insulation then drywall then my dropped ceiling in this area...?

No it will make no difference- sound flanking is very real.