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mud/tape

Posted by andrelaplume2 (My Page) on
Thu, Apr 16, 09 at 14:30

By years end I will have hung my drywall in my basement. I am confident I can mud the screw holes but there is no way I am good enough to tape seams, corners etc etc. Also, I have been told, a professional will produce far less dust and mess.

What is the going rate to have someone come in and tape, mud and sand? I will prime and paint. Like I said, the drywall will already be hung.

My alternative is to have non professional help..ie family...what would be a fair price to pay them; ie non professional?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: mud/tape

Trust me. You can do this. Granted, corners are tough, and a professional will be quicker, probably a little better, and maybe (but just maybe) cleaner. There are lots of self-help sources out there such as DIY books at the big box stores and web sites such as this, and you could try the nationalgypsum.com web site (they make drywall+).

Regarding family, I always paid my friend or family help a good lunch and/or dinner, and a few beers or sodas when the day was done, along with a promise of help when they needed it. Worked great. Some of the most enjoyable memories of my life.

Regarding the actual work, you'll need some tools:
- 5-gallon bucket of water to clean tools, pre-wet tape, etc
- 1.5", 3", 4", 6", 12" or similar selection of putty knives
- a corner tool
- Sanding pole with mesh-type sanding medium
- Sanding sponge blocks (can be used wet to minimize dust)
- 150 plus or minus grit sandpaper
- a portable light to hold near the wall for final finishing
- a shop vac to at least keep the floor clean

The main trick is to avoid leaving excess mud that will need to be sanded. If you leave voids, or shallow spots/valleys, you can always go back over them when they dry and fill them in. Trowel off ridges and feather edges as much as you can.

If the joint gap is wider than about 1/16", I prefill it with plain mud before applying the tape. If the joint is tight (or after prefill is dry) apply a 1/16" (minimum) layer of mud to the joint slightly wider than the tape. Pre-wet the tape and place it against the wet mud. With extra mud on the knife as a lubricant, press the tape evenly into the base mud. Again, don't leave any extra mud that will need sanding if you can avoid it. Let it dry, then apply another layer using a wider knife. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

A tool I use to minimize sanding after the first coat or two is a furniture scraper. You have to be careful not to tear the paper, but it doesn't seem to make as much dust.

I'm sure I left out a trick or two, but the main point is that it ain't rocket science. It'll take time, and you'll get better as you go along. Try small patches first.

Good luck


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RE: mud/tape

The mud job isn't the place you want to take shortcuts, because it has so much impact on the finished appearance of the room. No amount of paint covers a lousy tape/mud job. As retiredron said, it isn't exactly rocket science but it will be time consuming for the novice. If you have a friend/family with some experience, try to get them to help.


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RE: mud/tape

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Here is a link that might be useful: Basement mold remediation


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RE: mud/tape

we are using XPS with frmaing and fg insulation in front f it...no barrier necesary.


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