You need a dehumidifier, perhaps some heat, and it's probably time to seal the concrete floor, too (moisture getting through). I would drylock any bare walls, also in addition to the exterior moisture lock you have. Finally, I'd suggest having foam insulation applied to the walls before you go any further with framing in walls.

Bit late but this brief description maybe of use:

To combat mould first arm yourself with a mask and eye shield so that you can remove as much as you can physically without getting to heavy a dose of the spores whilst doing so. After removing as much as possible wash to area several times with first soap and water and then either a commercial mildew remover/cleaner and/or one gallon of water mixed with ¼ of a cup of chlorine bleach.

Obviously depending upon the level of damage any damaged materials will have to be replaced and unless you solve the original moisture problem it will most likely need replacing again from further damage.

It may well be worth purchasing a humidity meter ($15) which if it shows a reading of more than 50 then you should really look into buying a dehumidifier. There are a wide range of home dehumidifiers available suitable for home use and they usually range from the $100 and upwards mark. Here are a few pointers to remember when selecting a dehumidifier: If you require a dehumidifier in more than one room then consider buying a whole house dehumidifier rather than a single room dehumidifier. It will do the job more efficiently and last longer than running several smaller dehumidifiers continuously which will incur more maintenance costs.

Also donÂt forget that if you will be running your dehumidifier in particularly cold places that it has an auto-switch off when it starts to freeze. If it doesnÂt have one then it will become damaged if you run it and it starts to freeze. Also check that the noise level is not too high in the shop before you make a purchase particularly if it is to be used near your bedroom.

Further more it may well be worth getting a trusted builder/contractor to take a look at the area to check for possible causes and remedies of the moisture problem. Also having a word with your family doctor about any allergic symptoms and further dangers it may pose should also be done in order to consider how seriously you need to take into account the mold problem.

Hope that helps. More comprehensive info available on the link below:

Here is a link that might be useful: air dehumidifier, home dehumidifier

No mystery. Dehumidify. And don't vent. It will just let in more humid air.

Here is a link that might be useful: US EPA--Damp Basement

worthy

I understand the DH comment. I had mositure in the basement of my new home and bought a whole house DH (I read your posts) - fixed it quickly.

But the not vent comment - can you elaborate. I was planning to install an ERV becuase my house it so tight, the air is stale especially in the winter (rarely open windows). The ERV will be connected to the main HVAC unit in the basement to cycle fresh air to the main level and push stale air out - but that HVAC system has a return air duct from the basement space since this unit will also condition the basement when it is finished.

Are you saying this would not be wise?

Thanks

ERV. Excellent!

I was referring to vented crawl spaces, which in the summer especially, just draw in more humid air.

As Building Science Corp. points out, tight homes should have an HRV/ERV, but it is not a Code requirement everywhere.

Here is a link that might be useful: International Energy Conservation Code

Thanks - I was hoping that was the case. I need some fresh air.