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| First question, I cut the fur stips 2" above ground level (see pic2) I am making a list of areas foam...should this be on my list? (I did run a bead of concrete sealer stuff along the perimter of the floor/wall before I started, if that factors into it) On the end of the walls, I started the XPS a little out from the wall so no fur strip is in contact with the concrete, should be foamed? (pic1 sorry, imagine rotated 90 degrees)
Here is a shot of where I am at. Note the stairway. From the stairway to the big white pipe I will simply add drywall....no outlets here. From the big white pipe to the copper water meter...more drywall though this will be enclosed as a closet. The water meter over to the other end of the house (9 feet) I plan to stud out, ditto the 12' wall perpendicular to this one. I can add some extra insulation and run some outlets, switches etc. Note the stairway shot. Note the photo closeup of the sill area as you go up the steps. Should I foam this or caulk it? I can actually see a grey/white wire in there, of the speaker wire sort...not electrical, perhaps the security system...not sure if this factors into foaming, caulking or leaving as is... I hope I am doing OK. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by velvetfoot (My Page) on Sun, Feb 1, 09 at 23:30
| I can't help you with your questions, but what are you doing with the rim joist area? I might be able to use some spray foam in certain areas to complement the xps and was thinking of getting a spray can foam gun with a long barrel to reach some tough spots. Are you using the can that comes with a straw? I understand the guns have to be cleaned well to continue to work and the cans aren't available just anywhere. |
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| Looks fine. First pic: run a line of foam down between wood and the wall. Photo 2: The simplest thing is to put in a piece of XPS, and tape over it with builders tape. Photo 3: looks like lots of room for drywall over the foam. Bottom pic: What really works well there is acoustical caulking--a black non-skimming caulk. |
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- Posted by andrelaplume2 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 10:18
| Re: Looks fine. **Wheeeeew. Thanks! Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: THIS IS A AN AREA WHERE I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION! PS: looks like pic 1 did not need to be rortated 90 degrees! |
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- Posted by velvetfoot (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 13:20
| I've been doing that area with xps (4 layers). It is very tedious. I did find some frost and ice on the inside rim joist surface. I don't know what is code. I plan on putting drywall on walls and ceiling. |
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- Posted by andrelaplume2 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 14:11
| So you are cutting out 4 pieces of XPS about 8 X 16 and stuffing it in there? |
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- Posted by velvetfoot (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 15:06
| Yes. I am caulking (latex) the edges of each one. My goal is to cover the sill and concrete and meet up with the wall foam. |
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- Posted by andrelaplume2 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 16:27
| ...wonder if that is necesary....if its 10" deep, that would be like an R42! |
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| Re: Photo 2 Foam works too. Use builder's tape--Tyvek and Tuck are two popular brands. Acoustical sealant stays flexible and is an excellent air sealer. It's used to seal poly vapour barriers behind drywall. A minimum of 1" XPS followed by FG works well in a basement according to Building Science Corp. |
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- Posted by andrelaplume2 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 18:15
| Thaks worthy, I was at HD and did not see that nor had they heard of it. I will try Lowes...you got an alternative in case its a regional product? How about a 50 year window seal caulk? Would I use the same thing where the sill sits on the concrete? |
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| Try a building supply company, a retailer who specializes in drywall or a lumber yard! Other manufacturers include US Gypsum, Titebond and Mono. If you still can't find any--I suppose a 35 year rubber caulking should work. |
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- Posted by velvetfoot (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 22:23
| I'm not sure 1" would be enough to prevent condensation in a cold place. My idea was to wrap the concrete wall, the top of the wall, the sill and then to the rim joist. That darn rim joist area is tough. They're not all the same dimensions and there're penetrations, pipes, wires, etc. I will try to add a picture of a bay I just to to illustrate. This one only has three layers so far. I think spray foam might become a factor, much as I hate it. |
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- Posted by velvetfoot (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 22:40
| I guess I cut and pasted some html that links to my flikr page. I can't edit it, sorry. That latex caulk is pretty benign on the hands and doesn't stink and doesn't off gas anything flammable that could lit off by the boiler burner. I've been trying to fit the pieces tightly, which can cause other problems. |
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