I can't help you with your questions, but what are you doing with the rim joist area? I might be able to use some spray foam in certain areas to complement the xps and was thinking of getting a spray can foam gun with a long barrel to reach some tough spots. Are you using the can that comes with a straw? I understand the guns have to be cleaned well to continue to work and the cans aren't available just anywhere.

Looks fine.

First pic: run a line of foam down between wood and the wall.

Photo 2: The simplest thing is to put in a piece of XPS, and tape over it with builders tape.

Photo 3: looks like lots of room for drywall over the foam.

Bottom pic: What really works well there is acoustical caulking--a black non-skimming caulk.

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Looks fine.
**Wheeeeew. Thanks!

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First pic: run a line of foam down between wood and the wall.
**Thought so.

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Photo 2: The simplest thing is to put in a piece of XPS, and tape over it with builders tape.
**Yea but I would be foaming at some point and thought it might be easier to give a shot there in each hole...though I guess I'd have to cut the foam flush and it would make a mess so I think I like your idea better...is that just duct tape you refer too? I do have foam adhesive...could just dab some on the back and stick it in...? I thought I would need the foam adhesive to hold the panels in place while attached them but have found it was not necesary.

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Photo 3: looks like lots of room for drywall over the foam.
**All foam will be drywalled over EXCEPT the last 9 feet (after the water meter coming towards you for 9 feet...not eally shown...I am thinking I will frame here, add some more insulation and some outlets...this is actually the tv area.

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Bottom pic: What really works well there is acoustical caulking--a black non-skimming caulk.
**Ok, I had the canned foam but was not sure how easy it would be to use here so I figured caulk. I will look for the stuff you describe....do you have a brand or do I just look for it in the paint aisle? Likley I should use it on the sill around the perimeter anyway right???....they had fg hanging out of there...I pulled it out. FYI: My intent is to cover this with drywall..somehow....thats my other issue, the area between the stair striger and wall. I am still thinking about that. I may not be able to get the drywall below to match with the drywall already in place above....a job for later though!

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I can't help you with your questions, but what are you doing with the rim joist area?

THIS IS A AN AREA WHERE I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION!
**To be honest, if you are talking about the area above the XPS, there is fg in there now. Where I have removed the fg it has been pretty airtight unless a pipe or something is there. I will foam that with a can. I guess I will either use my cutoff XPS pieces to make inserts in here then shove the fg back in front of it....IS THAT UP TO CODE?---a dropped ceiling will eventuallly be in place. If not I likely will just put the fg back in place.

PS: looks like pic 1 did not need to be rortated 90 degrees!

I've been doing that area with xps (4 layers).
It is very tedious.
I did find some frost and ice on the inside rim joist surface.
I don't know what is code.
I plan on putting drywall on walls and ceiling.

So you are cutting out 4 pieces of XPS about 8 X 16 and stuffing it in there?

Yes. I am caulking (latex) the edges of each one.
My goal is to cover the sill and concrete and meet up with the wall foam.

...wonder if that is necesary....if its 10" deep, that would be like an R42!

Re: Photo 2

Foam works too. Use builder's tape--Tyvek and Tuck are two popular brands.

Acoustical sealant stays flexible and is an excellent air sealer. It's used to seal poly vapour barriers behind drywall.

A minimum of 1" XPS followed by FG works well in a basement according to Building Science Corp.

Thaks worthy, I was at HD and did not see that nor had they heard of it. I will try Lowes...you got an alternative in case its a regional product? How about a 50 year window seal caulk? Would I use the same thing where the sill sits on the concrete?

Try a building supply company, a retailer who specializes in drywall or a lumber yard!

Other manufacturers include US Gypsum, Titebond and Mono.

If you still can't find any--I suppose a 35 year rubber caulking should work.

I'm not sure 1" would be enough to prevent condensation in a cold place.
My idea was to wrap the concrete wall, the top of the wall, the sill and then to the rim joist.
That darn rim joist area is tough. They're not all the same dimensions and there're penetrations, pipes, wires, etc.
I will try to add a picture of a bay I just to to illustrate. This one only has three layers so far. I think spray foam might become a factor, much as I hate it.

I guess I cut and pasted some html that links to my flikr page. I can't edit it, sorry.

That latex caulk is pretty benign on the hands and doesn't stink and doesn't off gas anything flammable that could lit off by the boiler burner.

I've been trying to fit the pieces tightly, which can cause other problems.