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| Does anyone have any experience with either of these two companies products?:
Radon Seal Crack Repair
or Emecole
Their DIY crack repair packages both look very similar. I had a rep from "The Crack Team" [http://www.thecrackteam.com/] come out and give me an estimate.
The crack is a "standard" crack. Not near a corner....it is from the top of the poured foundation wall to the bottom....about 8 feet. It leaks occasionally.... The two above DIYer companies offer what seems to be the same thing that The Crack Team offers....
So, I am thinking of trying the DIYer version from either Radon Seal or Emecole. It would save me a good chunk of change....about $450.... Anyone have any advice or experiences to relate?
Thanks for the help. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I don't have hands on experience, but I did consider them and also did a lot of reading - then went with crack team, since I would be finishing the basement and had several cracks and didn't wan to make a DIY error on any of them. So I paid the price for their experience and to watch and learn. Yes, you can do it - not that hard at all. But from my reading, etc., it seems that the main issue is to to get the right blend of water in each port to activate the urethane - that's why crack team uses a double caulk gun to get around this. I acutally bought a competing product (still have it), and when I went through their instructions of first injecting each port with water, followed by the urethane, I realized that I could end up with voids in the crack. Not sure if that's an easy error to make, but that was my main worry. So I suggest you understand their procedure for filling the ports before you buy, and decide if that's right for you. The "just use a regular caulk gun" had me wondering. If you know how the water is added appropriately, please tell me. Hope this helps. One more thing - might be worth it to talk to a local waterproofing supplier. That's what I did. They have lots of stuff. |
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- Posted by mrmichaeljmoore (My Page) on Tue, Feb 26, 08 at 10:58
| Thanks for the response, homebound. The advantage I have is that the crack is on the unfinshed side of my basement. So, if I screw it up, I could always have the crack tem come in a "re-do" it, I guess. I think I may give one of the DIY kits a try. thanks. |
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| Good luck with it. If any of the crack is above grade outside, don't forget to first patch it with epoxy, too (or bondo, etc.) so your urethane doesn't ooze all over the place. |
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- Posted by mrmichaeljmoore (My Page) on Wed, Mar 5, 08 at 14:03
| I purchased the Crack Repair Kit from emecole today. Planning on giving it a try when I get a chance here over the next few weeks..... I'll post my results. |
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| I used Emecole urethane foam DIY injection kit (2 cracks) and it worked like a charm. The cracks ranged from hairline width near floor to nearly 1/8th inch at top. Injecting the hairline location was a pain but after that it was very easy. Highly recommend. |
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| Updates, anyone...? How did it work? Is it holding up? Has anyone else tried to fix a crack with polyurethane injection? |
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| I agree with one of the answers below regarding patching the surface crack with an epoxy mortar paste before injecting with epoxy or polyurethane. Hydro-Epoxy Mortar works great for patching cracks prior to injecting them. Hydro-Seal 75 mixed with dry cement & sand or concrete Sand Mix at a ratio of 4 parts Sand Mix to 1 part Hydro-Seal 75 is how you made Hydro-Epoxy Mortar. When sealing basements with Hydro-Seal 75 and Hydro-Epoxy mortar I apply my 1st coat of Hydro-seal 75 with a 1/2" nap roller and then go back and patch all cracks and holes with Hydro-Epoxy Mortar using a wide putty knife or taping knife. The sencond coat of Hydro-Seal 75 fills in all the pores and gives the basement a beautiful painted look in either White or Gray. This material does not peel off and does not support mold growth. While Hydro Seal is an epoxy material, it is a water based product with no smell and can be cleaned off your hands and tools with water or a wet towel or rag. |
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