The National Electrical Code requires either a 1.25" separation from the wall surface or mechanical protection of the cable as with a conduit; BX (armoured cable) may be permitted locally. You should be able to run the electrical in the 1/2" space created by the furring. Or use surface-mounted systems on top of the finished wall.

From where you supply a feed to the new receptacles depends on how many outlets will be on the total connected circuit.

While I do my own wiring to professional standards, as attested by Provincial inspection, I won't attempt to instruct anyone on how to wire anything. It's just too dangerous. If you're not familiar with home wiring, take a course or hire a qualified electrician.

..can always count you worthy!

I am NOT wiring anything!!!! I need to have things in place for the electrician though, ie boxes in place etc.

It sounds like the outlet box need to be 1.25" from the concrete. Wallmate has it 1/2" away the way I read it.

Are you saying I CAN mount the box 1/2" from the wall but the electrician will need to use the wiring with the metal conduit over it?

Is the wiring much more expensive? I guess my real question is am I better off just framing in front of the Wallmate in the areas I want outlets. (i'd prefer not to have surface outlets and conduit.

It amazing all the detail that goes into something like this....and waht you learn. I was in Lowes and needed to pick up some more 1 X 3s. All my prior were bought at HD. I got them home and noticed the quality for inferior to the ones at HD. They were straighter but the wood was much more flexible and seemed rougher and less dense. I have no idea if it matters but evedently I should look at the product more carefully, HD's are likely not fur strips but something else which explains why they were about .30 more expensive I guess.

It sounds like the outlet box need to be 1.25" from the concrete. Wallmate has it 1/2" away the way I read it.

Wallmate is correct. What has to be 1.25" away from the drywall is the wiring, unless it's protected. Your electrician will know what form of protection is acceptable in your jurisdiction. (I'm assuming this is done to Code.)

I guess my real question is am I better off just framing in front of the Wallmate in the areas I want outlets.

As I've posted before, the drawback to Wallmate is the special attention that has to be paid to electrical services on the wall. You have to be sure the boxes will not protrude past the surface of the finished wall and you have to protect the wiring by using armoured cable (AC) conduit or other protection. (Though you can router out a channel in the Wallmate for wiring, that would seem to be self-defeating.)

All that strapping is more like firewood than lumber! Try to get pieces that are just out of the shipping wraps, stack them in your basement and get them on the wall before they turn into skis! Don't hesitate to cut off curved portions. It doesn't have to look pretty, just has to hold the insulation and provide a base for attaching the drywall.

With more foam thickness, I guess there's more flexibility as far as routing the wire channels, depth of boxes, etc.. I'm still slowly doing the rim joist, but here's a pic of the second layer of insulation, with a channel milled to go over the strapping that's holding on the 2" of foam next to the concrete. Still not sure how it'll work with the drywall though.

I'm not sure why you didn't just strap over two layers of foam at once using 6" Tapcons; and then cut out where you want electrical boxes.

Still, you'll have a warm cozy basement when you're done.

for what that double layer costs I think I would have gottten a spray foam estimate. Either way thats out of my budget...maybe over overkill fo my eastern pa location.

I don't know. Today's overkill=tomorrow's standard.
I have a feeling that 4" of sprayed foam on the 9' walls of my 1000 ft2 basement wouldn't have been too cheap. Would've been faster though. :)

I'm still working on putting the xps in the rim joist area and found a pretty good chunk of ice in one of the bays tonight. The fiberglass was just stuffed in the bay, unfaced. I guess it eventually dries out when the temps warm up, and I didn't not see any damage in this 4 year old house, but it was still an eyeopener for me.

I am not familiar with the Wallmate system. But electrical boxes are permitted to project out from finished wall surfaces or even to be surface mounted. Fastening electrical boxes directly to concrete/masonry walls is done routinely.
Shallow wall boxes can be used in the wall with Wiremold steel boxes used as surface extensions, no surface raceway used. The Wiremold boxes add to the (cubic inch) volume of the assembly and help achieve the required volume for conductor fill.
The Wiremold site is not so easy to use, but boxes for the 500 and 700 Series raceway would work. Not the most attractive, but completely functional.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wiremold

"...you have to protect the wiring by using armoured cable (AC) conduit or other protection."

AC requires the same protection as NM.
Anything in bored holes within 1.25 of the face of the wood needs a plate at least 1/16 inch thick.

AC is not especially nail or screw resistant when trapped in a bored hole.
Even EMT has protection issues depending on the AHJ.
About the only thing that is considered nail and screw proof is rigid metal conduit, basically it is steel pipe threaded together.