away we go ...starting XPS...final questions

15 years ago

I think I learned enough here to put up my 1.5" thick slotted XPS in a portion of my basement. In one spot drywall will be affixed directely to this XPS. In another I will frame directly in front of it to allow for wiring and additional kraft backed insulation. Final questions...

I am using the slotted pink xps stuff from HD. It allows a 3" fur strip every 2 feet to hold it to the wall. Does this sound correct:

Use an adhesive for foamboard and apply a few dots here and there to tack the board in place while I affix the fur strips.

Place 3 Tapcon screws equally spaced thru the 3" fir strip and XPS and 1.25" into the concrete. Keep strip and inch off the ground.

Question: Do I need to drill the hole 1/2 deeper than the screw will penetrate?

Question: Since the fur strips sit flush with the slotted XPS I'd assume it best to use flush screws OR may I use hex screws which I am thinking will go easier? Of course if I use hex in the areas I wish to affix drywall directly to the xps, they would need to be countersunk the depth of the hex head. Is this a problem or will weaken things?

Note I was loaned an awesome hammer drill but will have only a regular drill, cordless screwgun, screwdriver or ratchet to drive the tapcons. I do not know how easy they go...I'd assume the hex's are easier? Whats the best tool for each type of screw?

Thanks!

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Comments (3)

worthy
15 years ago
Sounds fine to me.

But...

*Drill only 1/4" deeper than the embedment.

*Save the countersinking. Use the flat panhead screws.

The concrete screws go in easily. I use an adjustable speed drill and screwdriver, so I don't over tighten.

If you have a problem with some of the screws, it's no big deal. Sometimes you'll hit some large aggregate and can't drill properly. Just have another go at it. This is not finish work.

Good luck!
andrelaplume2
Original Author
15 years ago
thanks again. I just got my 3" fur strips...called strapping at HD... I hope I bought the right ones! I had to pick thru a million to find ones that were straight, not curved, waprped, knotty etc. etc. I am starting with just a few sections to make sure I can handle this on my own...still it took me 15 minutes to find a few straight ones.
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velvetfoot
15 years ago
On my project I countersunk the holes for the phillips head screws. I think the occasionaly screw would have wound up sticking up, so I took the extra time.

I got some bundled strapping from a lumber yard and they weren't too bad.

I used dabs of the foam adhesive to tack up the foam to the concrete, but in retrospect, that stuff is kinda of lumpy and didn't flow too well and required holding til it stuck, although I didn't hold it too long. I've been messing with a glue gun lately and it seems to work okay for sticking one layer of foam to another and it also seemed to work on concrete on a little sample. Advantage is that it sticks fast and doesn't have vapors like some line of contact cement or spray glue.

I drove the tapcons with an old electric drill that I have. Make sure you get the right Phillips head bit (#2?), for a good fit.

I went with 5 tapcons per strip, but I was strapping the 2" tongue in groove stuff.