There is not much out there on the internet in much detail about replacing oven door hinges, so I thought I would contribute what I did after getting fed up with the oven door opening quite a bit beyond the horizontal position on my MODEL VDSC365-6BSS 6-burner dual fuel range, which could have been born as early as 1998 according to SearsPartsDirect.com where I eventually got enough help by phone to feel confident ordering Viking part PC020126 that I was told was a replacement for the original hinges. The price seemed lower than what I was finding elsewhere too. I ordered two for 24.95 each plus shipping and tax. Yes, they were of an improved design in exactly the way they limit the door to opening up to the horizontal position as the stop was now two ends of some tabs butting against each other rather that just an arm hitting a tab in a way the tab finally was bent over causing the problem.

I found a site that described how to do the replacement, but it seems that it took a bit more to accomplish the job as good if not better than a service person would take the time to do. So read the following link first:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/viking-hinge-assy-no-pc020007-ap5315868.html.

And here is my experience. If the hinges were not worn, there would have been a feature that allow the door to simply be pulled up and off leaving the hinges themselves in a partially open position and not snap back to the closed position as described in the above link, but mine were worn in such a way that pulling the door up and out left the hinges in a partially open position. Once fully exposed, and after a little study of a spring loaded latch, if they are not in the second (more opened) position, manually pull them so they stay in that position by engaging the spring loaded latch. After removing the piece of stove front below the oven door by unscrewing it, both screws holding each hinge are exposed. remove them and the hinges can be extracted through their slots. I had quite a time getting them out because the slot was so narrow, but eventually wiggled them this way and that and probably would not have been successful without each hinge being cocked open in the position described above. The hinge screws are special with flatter heads than usual apparently to not cause interference with the closed door. Other than that they are #10x24x1/2" self-tapping machine screws, but being stainless steel they were a little soft and got buggered up some getting them out. So you might want to order four more when you order hinges. I went to a (good) hardware store and bought four "truss head" stainless screws of the same size to be ready to replace at least some if needed (I am pretty sure 3/8" long would work too). Now the holes in the new brackets were not threaded, so I would suggest you use a tap if you have such or do it with the original self-taping screws BEFORE you shove the hinges back through the slot!

I suspect the new hinges may also be tight going through the slots when installed. I used a plastic mallet to help move them through, but be sure they are in the same opened position described above for the old hinges. I decided to also put lock washers on the screws since all four screws were loose before I took out the old hinges. That makes the screw head protrude further out, but it did not seem to cause a problem when the door shut in my case. As long as they are removed one at time after the door is installed, the lock washers should be easily removed if they did interfere.

I slid the door onto the new hinges and as described in the above link. What you want to do is get the door on to a certain point, then pull it open some to release the spring loaded latches and slide it the rest of the way on, so the door will shut---easier with two people! That's it (after you replace that frontal piece below the door)!

This post was edited by coyotearms on Tue, Dec 18, 12 at 0:48