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mackswim

BlueStar Range/Counter depth

mackswim
16 years ago

My BlueStar RNB36 arrived yesterday! We are making the cabinets next week. I hope this question isn't too simple. This is what I think I have learned from this forum. I got a 1" guard to go against the wall. I will put a SS backspash 6" below the back, up to the hood. So the depth of my counters should not be more than 25"? And if they were 24" would the range stick out like a sore thumb? Any experience shared would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Comments (16)

  • mama_mia
    16 years ago

    I have a 24" depth counter top and the blue star looks great. Yes, it does stick out a bit but I don't see it as a problem. congrats on your purchase!

  • Fori
    16 years ago

    Maybe Alku will get in on this--she has the rangetop (pretty much the same) and DID bump out the counter and cabinetry by it. Having a full oven below will make a difference in what you can do with the cabinetry though--the oven door needs to be exposed--but you could do corbels or something to get the top part of the range nestled into the counter with a bumpout while having the bulk of the cabinetry flat.

    It's not needed--they do look fine poking out according to the mfr's installation requirements--but you could. The island trim that comes with the range shouldn't affect the 24" depth according to the manufacturer--does it? It's supposed to be 24" tucked into cabinets plus the oven door which sticks out.

    (Let us know what you decide--I'm going to need to know this soon!)

  • alku05
    16 years ago

    I'd be happy to weigh in on this Fori and Mackswim! I took a bunch of pictures for you too. Just a couple things before we get to the pictures....

    The Bluestar is designed to work with standard 24" cabinets. We didn't actually bump out our cabinets, but we did bump out our granite near the rangetop, and put a decorative column under the bump. Range/rangetops are designed so that part of the range protrudes from the cabinets. That's so the door sticks out and you don't risk damaging your cabinets (or burning down your house) if the oven seal fails years from now. I believe it is required by the specs that the door protrude, but I didn't check the manual so I may be wrong. The trim piece, be it island like we have, or any of the others, doesn't add depth to the rangetop.

    So I have a few close ups of this area, but here's a slightly bigger picture first for reference:

    Zooming in on the visible part of the rangetop, you can see how the section that houses the knobs protrudes in front of the cabinets. (The cabinet plane is equal to the filler panel behind the column.) If this were a range, I believe the door would take up the room under this protrusion.

    If I open the adjacent spice pullout, you can get a peek at what the cabinets hide. You can clearly see the part that is designed to be within the cabinet, and the part that's meant to stick out.

    And finally, here you can see how we bumped out our granite to pevent the part that's meant to stick out from being a hip knocker. (And to be honest, b/c it looks pretty.) Again, if this were a range, the oven door would fill the space below the knob protrusion.

    Well, besides these closeups pointing out that I need to dust again, I hope they help you figure things out. Let me know if you have any picture requests, or any questions ans I'll try to help.

  • mackswim
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thank you for the pictures! OK, this is where my brain is feeling very thick...I thought if I was using the 1" guard on the back of the range (instead of the 6" backsplash), then my countertops could be 25" instead of 24". Why am I having such a hard time figuring this out?! I think I am just getting overwhelmed as the days are counting down..
    Thanks again.

  • alku05
    16 years ago

    You have to use a backguard with a Bluestar, your only choice is how tall it is. The only difference between the 1" guard and the 6" guard is how far above the surface it reaches up. From the back of the guard to the front of the section designed to be in the cabinet, it measures 24". If you had 25" cabinets, then you risk that door seam getting inset into your cabinets.

    Keep in mind that with 24" base cabinets, your actual countertops will be 25.5" deep because the counter overhangs the cabinets.

  • alexrander
    16 years ago

    You are set to go, just the way you described it. It's confusing, but I can only assure you that your original description sounds right, and what everyone else has said is true as well.

    The 1" island trim piece on the back does not kick the range out because it over laps the burner area and stays flush with the back of the oven below it.

    The range side wall is 24" deep NOT counting the Oven Door, or the Control knob area. So your lower base cabinets must also be 24" deep to be flush with the oven sides up to the Door and Control knobs. The door and knob area will always stick out a couple inches from the base cabs.
    Look at the picture in the link- esp. the white cabinets with stainless bluestar. (second row down -left side)

    Your counter top can be cool like Alku5 or just straight. They also stick out above their base (as mentioned above), so water doesn't drip down the front of the cabinets. Therefore, they're generally 25.5 inches deep. (1.5" beyond the base cabinet)

    Here is a link that might be useful: picture worth a thousand words

  • mackswim
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    You all are very helpful! I thought that I had read on one of the threads (after reading thousands can't remember where) that if you use the 1" guard the range also stuck out further than if I used one of the taller backsplashes. I guess that is how I got confused. Thanks so much for clearing it up for me. I'll keep you posted on the progress of the redo. Hoping to have it done by the end of Jan.!

  • breezy_2
    16 years ago

    Nope! alku has it right essentially in that the trims are notched into the back and, once installed, are flush with the back of the unit. Standard cabinet depth is 24 inches or you will be in trouble b/c the range itself, not including the doors, should be no less than flush and even stick out 1/4 to 1/2 inch in front of the side styles of the cabinet for good measure (mine does).

    Since you are in the planning stage, here is a bit of a twist. We currently have a Wolf with the 21 inch riser and shelf. Love it b/c we have the hood w/heat lamps and it doubles for a great food warmer (and looks really cool). However, it limits the size of the pot you can center on the back burners and if you use the back burners on high, it heat stains the stainless steel riser. We therefore primarily use the front burners for heavy cooking and back burners for simmering...really works fine.

    In our new house, we opted for the Blue Star with an island trim instead. The island trim is only slightly higher than the grate surfaces and allows for additional space behind the trim to center large pots and pans. Then we kicked the range out from the wall 4 inches to add additional space. We used decorative posts on the base cabinets on either side of the range and had the granite flare out over them, 4 inch granite piece runs behind the range etc. In short,the enclosure for the range is still 24 inches deep but it is kicked out from its adjacent cabinets 4 inches. This way, we get extra space behind the range top of the range for large pots and pans and their handles etc...its great! And yes, hood is extended the same. We have a custom wood hood cabinet that has a capture area of 72 inches by 32 inches with a 60 inch high capacity liner in it. Effectively, the hood capture area is 6 inches wider than the burners and 4 inches deeper in back and extending past in front of the burners for a really good capture area. We also put in a 2500 CFM remote blower vent motor and it kicks! We worked with Eurostoves and the Blue Star folks to design the hood. We solved the food warmer thing by putting in a warming drawer but I still love the heat lamp thing with what we have now.

    Sorry if this is TMI.

  • Fori
    16 years ago

    Pictures please, Breezy! :)

  • mackswim
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    That sounds like a great idea! Unfortunatly my kitchen space won't allow for the extra inches. I wouldn't have room b/t the range and the island. I was going to have a shelf made to go above the range but was talked out of it. I guess from what you say it wouldn't have worked too well. Thanks for sharing your idea.
    (Would love to see you pics too).

  • breezy_2
    16 years ago

    OK, here goes, I have never done this but have been promising to.

    This is early rough in stages but its hard to see the outset:

    Finished product. The large verticle appliances pulls on either side are spice rack drawers.

  • alexrander
    16 years ago

    Wow.

  • breezy_2
    16 years ago

    Thanks alexr and BTW, it was your post I was actually referring to when I said alku got it right...SORRY (and not that alku was wrong I was just referring to your post). After looking at the pic's again, I probably need to post a whole look so you can see why the green mixed with brown. The kitchen is a very open design and over looks the family room. The kitchen has the 2 green uppers flanking the hood and, as you can see the center island granite is a strong matching green as well. On another wall we had a matching green cabinet and hutch built and it is more like a piece of furniture. When you look off into the family room, the bookcases flanking the stone fireplace are the same green so it sort of pulls it all together IMO. I hope others think so too. We REALLY labored over the kitchen and master bath.

  • mackswim
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    That is fabulous! Thanks for sharing. I can tell you really put a lot of thought into it!

  • Fori
    16 years ago

    Thanks for the pictures. I'd say I'd be moving in shortly, but I'd be scared to make a mess in such a nice clean space...!