|There are several manufacturers making range hoods in a similar style. Miele offers a 36" stainless steel and glass model that might suit your needs. See the link below.|
Here is a link that might be useful: Miele angled glass range hood
|If you do a lot of stir fry or plan to get a grill I suggest caution. We had an angled hood. Even with a very powerful external blower it could not keep up with the grill.|
|The disadvantage to all these goodlooking hoods is that they don't capture air. The hot air rising from the cooking area. |
Consider capturing air.
And doing so in a way that increases your impression of space.
We also have low ceilings (94.5 inches) in a galley kitchen and wanted a wall hood that would not feel massive / use a lot of the visual space. I'll use your thread to introduce my solution, and at some other time I'll put it all into a new thread.
It's a small space, landlocked. We figured we'd make it feel big and open by not having any upper cabinets above one of the two counters --- just backsplash and open space above it, using a horizontal mirror on the wall to increase light from the adjacent space and that window about eight feet away. We removed most of the dividing wall between the kitchen and the adjoining windowed area.
Above the cooking surface we felt we needed a structure that could hold the slide-out hood we would design. Reading arbordomus' thread from last January gave us both this idea and the other idea described so far, i.e. increasing visual effect by having something attractive over that other counter. Both a technically valid hood solution that took the space it needed, and an over-the-sink solution, light and airy.
For the hood wall, a basic low-cost customizable solution was a wall of three 30.375" high Ikea Akurum boxes, with frosted glass doors and fluorescent light bars inside. Light comes from the horizontal base plate on the bottom: you replace each cabinet's OSB floor with a shelf designed for this purpose. The shelf has lighting in it.
Then I did the same with each cabinet's top panel, and got more light. Then I added extra fluorescent bars with warm light bulbs to counteract the cold sameness of the IKEA fluorescent light shelving; I put these behind the cabinets, after first pushing the cabinets out from the wall (using spacers) and removing the cabinets' false backing. It's great to have two kinds of fluorescent lighting: a linear sum of white lights. The impact of this white light is WAY more appealing than either one all by itself. It's white light with increased "complexity".
The fan is an inline FG6 from fantech.net. It's suspended from the ceiling. Neoprene rings prevents the fan's normal hum or vibration from going straight into the wall of the duct and traveling down the duct. (It's so quiet it probably wouldn't need the neoprene.) The fan is eleven inches in diameter. Eleven inches is available when I install the wall cabinets at 53" height -- and that happens to be pretty much at the "industry" norm of 54" height. In your case you could go with the 15" Akurum wall cabinet and save a lot of money.
The fan has a six inch duct. I had the duct turn down and change shape to fit into my wall's stud cavity. A standard duct adaptor / transition piece, readily available in a large hardware store, turns the duct ninety degrees downwards and changes the 6" round duct into a 3.25" deep by X" wide rectangular duct. Here is where I had a guttermaking shop make another adaptor to turn the corner and transform into a wide wide rectangle for me since my wall studs are 24" O. C. apart. This big rectangular duct comes out of the wall at a 45 degree angle under the wall cabinets, at 47.5"- 53" above floor level. I cut this last angle myself since I had the metal shop just make a long straight rectangle and I didn't know yet what distance it would travel; also, I didn't know the precise height it would be installed at, near the ceiling. The filter fits in here.
A wall switch gives me three speeds. I tried a few variable speed controls but they cannot match power factor so they create a little hum at low speed, which is not acceptable to me since low speed operation has to be silent for me to accept it.
Remember the goal: to increase the visual impact and the impression of space. A header box overhead holds three recessed 50W 12VDC 12.5 degree spotlights shining onto the counter. I removed the magnetic transformer from these recessed halogen cans, and installed a single electronic transformer instead, because I couldn't stand the hum from the magnetic transformers. Each bulb shines onto the counter while also highlighting the wood frame around the frosted glass panels of the wall cabinets.
These glass panels are lifted to open, not pivoted out. The lift mechanism is Blum Aventos HF with 104 degree angle stop. The advantage is space and visual effect (again). The wall cabinet doors slide up and fold up. No opening sideways. If you get 15"h Akurum boxes WITH a lift up hinge, you'll save a lot of money and hassle time compared to my 30"h box.
The overhead halogens are in a piece of the header that extends far enough out overhead to put the halogens directly above the front edge of the counter. A portion of the header 7"h extends 11" out from the plane of the wall cabinets. This portion was built in a gently curved shape; again to increase the visual impact. When the door panels are lifted up, the halogen light shines through the frosted glass to the counter below.
The filter could be baffle or mesh or both combined. I have stainless steel that I can cut to any shape, and take to have welded together.
As sneeze-guard / canopy / grease surface, I have a clear, not frosted, tempered glass plate that I intend to slide out and tilt down on a slight angle. The underside of the wall cabinets will hold the supports for the slider mechanism. Note that this is already made of tempered glass -- but in addition to this I intend to use more glass to make the whole air capture area even more fireproof, cleanable and clean looking. On the wall, I'll cover the drywall with perhaps one entire piece of glass, or epoxy grouted glass tiles, perhaps with some mirror pieces in there.
53" above floor is below-eye level. A glass pullout slider puts the airstopping canopy's front piece at a sneezeguard height and angle. Making it be able to tilt downwards too, solves a number of air flow problems common to ALL the kitchen exhaust fans we see in the market today. Consider how to stop your grease-speck laden air from rising and escaping the capture area. Solving this problem with a high-space visual effect will give you both what you want and what you need.
|davidro1, thank. I skimmed over your post (still waking up) and will get back to it to better understand. |
Are the Ikea cabinets just the "hood" or are they actually fully fnctional? It seems that they may be, with the mouth of the duct under them and you building a slideout there? I just got my kitchen order in from the Ikea sales (my garage is full of flat Ikea boxes) but of course could get extra cabinets regardless. That is an interesting idea, especially as I am removing the window on my wall (but opening other walls to a room with windows) and I like your lighting idea.
Hood experts, will a 6" duct be enough for my RNB 36? I was under the impression that I would have to go to 8" or 10" because of the high output of the stove.
PS: kitchen layout with a "dummy" hood for location.
|You'll definitely want at least a 7" or 8" duct with a 600 CFM blower, 10" with 1200 CFM. Capture area is key -- the flat and angled hoods look great, but don't do much on removing steam, grease, smoke, and the like. There are some clever solutions out there on how to get it, but your goal should be at least 42" in width and 24" or 27" in depth.|
|YA, frenchman, yes the Ikea cabinets are fully functional. All the interior space in the cabinets is useable. There is no motor housing inside the cabinets, which is what would be the case with all the slide-out options sold on the market today. Repeat: the volume inside is useable, presentation space or storage space, not taken over by any blower or other parts. |
Yes the mouth of the duct is under the wall cabinets and I'm building a slideout there.
In your drawings, I guess teh green shading is structural stuff you cannot move.
From your drawings, it's clear the wall where you need a hood is currently designed as your open wall. On the other (sink) wall you have six wall cabinets, 15" high (or three 30"h cabintes). Since you drew the doors horizontally, I'll guess they are the 15"h ones, since that is how Ikea sells them. It makes sense you would put wall cabinets between the two columns.
Consider adding two more of these cabinets to your design. (Or reducing the six to three and moving two to the open wall). Two side by side, with a spacer and finishing panels, will give you a width of 61.5". Adding fluorescent light shelves as their structural floor panels, you will have solved some of the key requirements: 1 block air from rising away from the cooking surface; 2 light the area.
If you install these on the open wall, and put a big rectangular conduit (duct) inside the wall stud cavity (going straight up to meet the duct path you already have planned out), then you will have an opening for your duct to suck air away, a path for cooking air to leave the room instead of floating upwards. This meets another major requirement. Building a slideout is next, since the cabinets are not going to protrude forward enough to cover the whole surface you want covered. The last major requirement is to build more around it all because these lighting shelves are not designed to be 100% fireproof, although they are made of tempered glass, aluminum extrusions and some plastic. You probably want as I do to meet the level of fireproofing standards that we can be proud of, or that we would like it to.
Disclaimer: don't anyone else try this at home if this appears daunting to you.
Transition the duct to whatever size you want for your RNB 36. Do not think of a 6" duct simply because I am using that size. My mentioning a 6" duct was not a recommendation. Disregard the sizing I have used. Your needs are different. For your information, I had to use a 6" duct because that is the size already installed in my building, where I have a condo. Now you can safely forget I ever mentioned my sizing. Use the duct size you want to use.
I don't know if you are in a condo or a house you own. A remote blower (exterior or inline) can be far away. If it has to be inline and inside the kitchen space, you can put it inside a drywalled box you build at ceiling height, or inside another layer of wall cabinets.
If you do consider swapping the locations for the sink and the cooktop, you will have to let one of the six cabinets be taken up by the inline blower. Or have one row only, and a bigger header overhead.
|We bought this one from Costco. The price was right; it's from Italy; it seems very well made; and it's absolutely gorgeous. We are hoping it gets installed early next week. I'll report back afterwards. |
|h.t.h., thanks. The green stuff in my drawings is actually wall I am removing. I am keeping the rest, but actually rebuilding it a foot away to have more space. So I can pretty much do what I want here I guess. |
I like the idea of building something and will play with it. What is your slide out going to look like? Just the glass (glass and grease don't like each other much). And how are you going to hide the "mouth" of the in-wall hood, if any, and put the filter in?
It seems like you're making your filters. I wonder if one could get a ready-made hood insert and use it in your system (building my filters is just too much for me I think).
Skali, please report.
| It's normal to overthink all this. |
e.g. : ... (glass and grease don't like each other much)...
Since you are able to position the open counter where you want to, consider making one counter extra deep. It'll overhang the full extension drawer a little bit. No big deal, you don't need to have each inch of counter be visible from directly above like a photo; your hand can reach things in the last X inches that you can still see from an angle.
A cooking surface with air contained on most sides is a good setup, for an exhaust fan to work well.
A cooking surface with air open, not contained, on most sides, is not a good setup. According to all. It's not "ideal" is what some will say, but that really means it's what you have and you have to work with it.
More options you might have:
To see what my slide out will look like, come back in 2010 when I've gotten around to it. I'm doing several things at a time, all the time, so I won't be able to describe it fully until months from now. One thing for sure: the glass will clip out so it can go into the dishwasher. Or unscrew, or slide out of the slideout, or whatever. Because I can't weld it in, and wouldn't want to glue it in. Now, 2., the mouth of the duct opening is easy to hide, but explaining it will sound vague. Think of how overhead fluorescent fixtures "hide" the light bulbs (tubes) because the grille prevents you from seeing them unless you are standing directly underneath. Go to a big store and look again. Now, 3., as for filters, well they are easy to buy, easy as pie. Easy to make too. And by the way, mesh filters work well, for me and for my cooking habits, since I leave the fan on low or medium very often. Making a big baffle out of stainless steel, cut and welded, is easy. It's just one big rectangle, with cross members, and these are repeated X times, so it's easy to specify to someone what to do and let him have fun doing it. Stainless steel is a wonderful material. Once you weld it, you sand it or polish it as you wish on your own time (e.g. Dremel) and it's done, fini, voilà, as you wish: poli or dépoli. Same story with aluminum. You need a guy who likes welding this stuff, and you go to his shop and make yourself appear to be the world's most desirable customer, with a clear project, an interesting application, and a willingness to flatter him --next thing you know, he loves you and does everything you might have ever dreamt of, at almost no cost. This happened to me. 3rd option: you have it welded in basic steel and you polish it and take it to a nickel plating shop.
|Nice French. Bravo. (And thanks for the thinking material.)|
|Our angled hood was installed yesterday and it has surpassed my expectations in every way. It looks beautiful. It works extremely well. It is *very* quiet on its lowest setting, and reasonably quiet on its middle setting. Even on high, it's no where close to the airline taking off that we had to endure on our old VAH. |
I give it two big thumbs up!
|I know this is an old post, but if you are still here on the forum skali, would you mind sharing your experience of an angled hood now after som time has passed? |
I would love to have an angled one for the looks in my kitchen, but some posts have made me a little bit hesitant about them. Anyone else has an angled hood and would care to share their experience? good or bad.
This post was edited by SweCan on Wed, Apr 17, 13 at 21:57
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