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Angled range hoods / hoods that are not monolithic?

frenchman
14 years ago

I saw this hood in the Ikea kitchen catalog: Nutid hood.

While I need a much wider hood for my Bluestar RNB 36, I like the fact that this hood is angled in a way that makes the space still look open.

I have low ceilings (92 inches) and a galley kitchen, and any ideas about a wall hood that will not feel massive / use a lot of the visual space are welcome. (If I had an island, a smaller stove, and the budget, I'd absolutely get an Elica hood, but this will be for another world.)

YA

Comments (12)

  • wa8b
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There are several manufacturers making range hoods in a similar style. Miele offers a 36" stainless steel and glass model that might suit your needs. See the link below.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Miele angled glass range hood

  • blindstar
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you do a lot of stir fry or plan to get a grill I suggest caution. We had an angled hood. Even with a very powerful external blower it could not keep up with the grill.

  • frenchman
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    davidro1, thank. I skimmed over your post (still waking up) and will get back to it to better understand.

    Are the Ikea cabinets just the "hood" or are they actually fully fnctional? It seems that they may be, with the mouth of the duct under them and you building a slideout there? I just got my kitchen order in from the Ikea sales (my garage is full of flat Ikea boxes) but of course could get extra cabinets regardless. That is an interesting idea, especially as I am removing the window on my wall (but opening other walls to a room with windows) and I like your lighting idea.

    Hood experts, will a 6" duct be enough for my RNB 36? I was under the impression that I would have to go to 8" or 10" because of the high output of the stove.

    Thanks,
    YA

    PS: kitchen layout with a "dummy" hood for location.

  • sfjeff
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You'll definitely want at least a 7" or 8" duct with a 600 CFM blower, 10" with 1200 CFM. Capture area is key -- the flat and angled hoods look great, but don't do much on removing steam, grease, smoke, and the like. There are some clever solutions out there on how to get it, but your goal should be at least 42" in width and 24" or 27" in depth.

  • davidro1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    YA, frenchman, yes the Ikea cabinets are fully functional. All the interior space in the cabinets is useable. There is no motor housing inside the cabinets, which is what would be the case with all the slide-out options sold on the market today. Repeat: the volume inside is useable, presentation space or storage space, not taken over by any blower or other parts.

    Yes the mouth of the duct is under the wall cabinets and I'm building a slideout there.

    --
    These wall cabinets block the air from rising. So they are in a sense a part of the "hood". Or, seen another way, they hold the almost-invisible glass under them, and that glass is the hood.

    In your drawings, I guess teh green shading is structural stuff you cannot move.

    From your drawings, it's clear the wall where you need a hood is currently designed as your open wall. On the other (sink) wall you have six wall cabinets, 15" high (or three 30"h cabintes). Since you drew the doors horizontally, I'll guess they are the 15"h ones, since that is how Ikea sells them. It makes sense you would put wall cabinets between the two columns.

    Consider adding two more of these cabinets to your design. (Or reducing the six to three and moving two to the open wall). Two side by side, with a spacer and finishing panels, will give you a width of 61.5". Adding fluorescent light shelves as their structural floor panels, you will have solved some of the key requirements: 1 block air from rising away from the cooking surface; 2 light the area.

    If you install these on the open wall, and put a big rectangular conduit (duct) inside the wall stud cavity (going straight up to meet the duct path you already have planned out), then you will have an opening for your duct to suck air away, a path for cooking air to leave the room instead of floating upwards. This meets another major requirement. Building a slideout is next, since the cabinets are not going to protrude forward enough to cover the whole surface you want covered. The last major requirement is to build more around it all because these lighting shelves are not designed to be 100% fireproof, although they are made of tempered glass, aluminum extrusions and some plastic. You probably want as I do to meet the level of fireproofing standards that we can be proud of, or that we would like it to.

    Disclaimer: don't anyone else try this at home if this appears daunting to you.

    Transition the duct to whatever size you want for your RNB 36. Do not think of a 6" duct simply because I am using that size. My mentioning a 6" duct was not a recommendation. Disregard the sizing I have used. Your needs are different. For your information, I had to use a 6" duct because that is the size already installed in my building, where I have a condo. Now you can safely forget I ever mentioned my sizing. Use the duct size you want to use.

    I don't know if you are in a condo or a house you own. A remote blower (exterior or inline) can be far away. If it has to be inline and inside the kitchen space, you can put it inside a drywalled box you build at ceiling height, or inside another layer of wall cabinets.

    If you do consider swapping the locations for the sink and the cooktop, you will have to let one of the six cabinets be taken up by the inline blower. Or have one row only, and a bigger header overhead.

    h.t.h.

  • skali
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We bought this one from Costco. The price was right; it's from Italy; it seems very well made; and it's absolutely gorgeous. We are hoping it gets installed early next week. I'll report back afterwards.

  • frenchman
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    h.t.h., thanks. The green stuff in my drawings is actually wall I am removing. I am keeping the rest, but actually rebuilding it a foot away to have more space. So I can pretty much do what I want here I guess.

    I like the idea of building something and will play with it. What is your slide out going to look like? Just the glass (glass and grease don't like each other much). And how are you going to hide the "mouth" of the in-wall hood, if any, and put the filter in?

    It seems like you're making your filters. I wonder if one could get a ready-made hood insert and use it in your system (building my filters is just too much for me I think).

    Skali, please report.

  • davidro1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It's normal to overthink all this.
    e.g. : ... (glass and grease don't like each other much)...

    Despair not.

    Since you are able to position the open counter where you want to, consider making one counter extra deep. It'll overhang the full extension drawer a little bit. No big deal, you don't need to have each inch of counter be visible from directly above like a photo; your hand can reach things in the last X inches that you can still see from an angle.

    A cooking surface with air contained on most sides is a good setup, for an exhaust fan to work well.
    Everyone will confirm this.
    Capture, containment.

    A cooking surface with air open, not contained, on most sides, is not a good setup. According to all. It's not "ideal" is what some will say, but that really means it's what you have and you have to work with it.

    More options you might have:
    1. Move cooktop to the sink counter. Snaidero does a lot of kitchens with everything all in a row. They are upmarket, high-end, expensive, design kitchens. See their site.
    2. Swap sink and cooktop locations. Can the exterior wall be used for your exhaust fan? Can your sink drain go down through the floor underneath the open counter? Or do you have joists, and joist space in the subfloor to route the drain somewhere where it makes sense?

    To see what my slide out will look like, come back in 2010 when I've gotten around to it. I'm doing several things at a time, all the time, so I won't be able to describe it fully until months from now. One thing for sure: the glass will clip out so it can go into the dishwasher. Or unscrew, or slide out of the slideout, or whatever. Because I can't weld it in, and wouldn't want to glue it in. Now, 2., the mouth of the duct opening is easy to hide, but explaining it will sound vague. Think of how overhead fluorescent fixtures "hide" the light bulbs (tubes) because the grille prevents you from seeing them unless you are standing directly underneath. Go to a big store and look again. Now, 3., as for filters, well they are easy to buy, easy as pie. Easy to make too. And by the way, mesh filters work well, for me and for my cooking habits, since I leave the fan on low or medium very often. Making a big baffle out of stainless steel, cut and welded, is easy. It's just one big rectangle, with cross members, and these are repeated X times, so it's easy to specify to someone what to do and let him have fun doing it. Stainless steel is a wonderful material. Once you weld it, you sand it or polish it as you wish on your own time (e.g. Dremel) and it's done, fini, voilà, as you wish: poli or dépoli. Same story with aluminum. You need a guy who likes welding this stuff, and you go to his shop and make yourself appear to be the world's most desirable customer, with a clear project, an interesting application, and a willingness to flatter him --next thing you know, he loves you and does everything you might have ever dreamt of, at almost no cost. This happened to me. 3rd option: you have it welded in basic steel and you polish it and take it to a nickel plating shop.
    -- I find this figuring and building to be far more interesting than washing and polishing my car. So my car may carry more dust and dirt than most, because I spend my time on other things. What a trade off ! Quel sacrifice !

    -dr

  • frenchman
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nice French. Bravo. (And thanks for the thinking material.)

  • skali
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Our angled hood was installed yesterday and it has surpassed my expectations in every way. It looks beautiful. It works extremely well. It is *very* quiet on its lowest setting, and reasonably quiet on its middle setting. Even on high, it's no where close to the airline taking off that we had to endure on our old VAH.

    I give it two big thumbs up!

  • SweCan
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I know this is an old post, but if you are still here on the forum skali, would you mind sharing your experience of an angled hood now after som time has passed?

    I would love to have an angled one for the looks in my kitchen, but some posts have made me a little bit hesitant about them. Anyone else has an angled hood and would care to share their experience? good or bad.