>>> if I can figure out how to run a movie on my phone or video camera (does anyone still have one of those?!)

Sure, I have have seven of them, but then I make my living with them as my screen name indicates.

Beyond that, here are some responsive comments about the main topics of your post.

First, I agree that buying an NXR from Costco is a good idea because of the no-questions/absolute-satisfaction/full-refund policy. For me, it was a definite plus that Costco had: (a) the double-the-warranty provision in the Costco-Amex card agreement; and (b) the year-end membership rebate. But the primary thing for me was Costco's satisfaction guarantee. I was thinking: "who cares if there was warranty problem if I can just take the stove back for a full refund."

Second, is Costco still running the $200 off sale? When I just checked the Costco.com site, the NXR ranges are listed as sold out. I got miy NXR during one of those sales last year, and that discount was one little extra helping push towards choosing to buy an NXR. But it was like you had to know the secret handshake and have somebody tell you that the two-week sale was on.

Third, if I had run into the problems that beset bmorepanic (to whom I think you may be referring when you mention "getting a lemon"), my NXR would have been back to Costco and I would have been on to one of the similarly priced induction ranges that were on my short list. Fortunately, most of us have not had to deal with the kind of stupidity that was inflicted on bmorepanic. (And, for the record, nobody should read my comments as implying in any way that what happened to bmorepanic was her fault in any way, shape or form. Of late, warranty service has become abysmal across the entire appliance inductry and it seems to be random chance if you are the one on whom bad service is inflicted.)

Fourth, when you talk about trying to fix the old range, I know whereof you speak. (Oh boy, do I ever! I'm even worse when it comes to trying to keep older cars going, too.). One of the things that attracted me to the NXR was its use of standardized/generic parts which seemed to give me the ability to fix/replace things myself. With the use of standarized ignitors, for example, I see replacing an oven or burner ignitor as the equivalent of periodically the replacing spark plugs on my car.

Fifth, the $50 price from hallmanindustries dot com is less than half the cost I had to pay last year for a center grate section.
Also, when I was buying last year, the center grate price was $50 onl Aparently this has changed?

Editied on 10-31-13 to complete the last thought

Last year, when I was buying, the center grate was $50 when you also bought the stove from the vendor and $100 when the stove had been purchased elsewhere.

This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Oct 31, 13 at 9:34

I have my 2nd range on order from Costco. If my first unit was a scratch/dent then I would not even think twice and would keep it, but it is not, so I will see what the dice rolls the 2nd time. Yes, it is a pain to take back, but mine has never been used yet, so not much to disconnect and re-pack.

I did purchase a center grate and the island trim for my 30 inch. I originally purchased from hallman, but they told me that they would be out of stock for a couple of months. (really?) I got a refunt the I purchased the center grate and island trim from the duro east cost distributor for 180 shipped. It was in stock and shipped to me in a coupe of days.

I really like the looks and the overall build of the stove. I like that it has standard off the shelf parts. With the accessories already purchased, I will buying of of these stoves, but I want one that is as 100% as possible.

I have included a pic of my stove in the middle of my kitchen update. FYI, the Kobe hood with LED is awesome.

black88mx6: looks good. The Kobe hoods do seem to be pretty good units. Just out of curiousity, is Costco giving you the currently discounted price for the second buy or did you do a straight-across exchange?

My original purchase and now this re buy is at the discounted price.

oalahego e-mailed me directly and, with his permission, I'm copying the e-mail and my response because they seem likely to be helpful info for others considering buying an NXR.

oalahego wrote:

"Hey JW, I did just check my credit card (on-line) and it shows a completed transaction, not 'pending', to Hillman, so it looks like they may let slide the $50 purchase of the center grate.
"Did you have a good or bad experience with the adjustable legs on your NXR? I'm hoping the threaded stud is a simple swap for a larger one, that is IF the problem really exists. I've seen (on line, maybe this forum or another) pictures of the NXR in the Mfg box, INSIDE a crate, appears nicely boxed/protected for shipment... at least the pics of teh ones Costco sold in stores (I believe only in Canada). I hope the trucking co deliverers mine that way. I also e-mailed to Costco's Customer Service ques about do I unbox and check the stove over upon delivery, etc... that their response was, (paraphrasing here), that the driver will likely not be able to wait for you to do so, but note or refuse shipment if any visible damage is apparent. Otherwise, unbox and thoroughly check over unit as soon as possible and report any damages to us immediately. Again, I trust Costco's reputation and satisfaction guarantee here on this... but I do not want any issues anyway.
I" have a bit to get ready before my NXR arrives... although we already have gas there, I want to shorten the stub sticking out of the floor there a bit, to be sure the pipe and CSST connector all fit in the recess towards the back/bottom of teh stove, to allow us to push the unit almost snug up to the wall. My outlet behind is okay as is, and already has a plug-in surge protector, just in case. Now, almost directly under the unit in the unfinished basement (again, picture a 125+ y/o home cellar) is one floor joist that had been terribly butchered/cut long ago, to run what thru it I can't imagine - based on the size of the meat taken out of it. The kitchen floor above is already tiled and out of level from long ago, but at 305# for the new range, and user standing in front of it, I want to carefully sister and reinforce that joist, w/o doing more damage to the existing tile floor above. There's mechanicals and the like in the way, of course it's not a simple, open stud bay, but hopefully if I can maybe trim a bit off 2 new sistering joists, and sandwich the compromised one in between, and thru-bolt, I'll sleep better just thinking it won't get any worse. Lastly, this one kind of makes me go "hummmmm". We have those granite-like counters (beautiful I might add!) the brand of which I think is Silestone. They were professionally installed 10+ years ago, with the soon-to-go Gallery range... and it is a tight fit. Knowing the new NXR is a true 30", as opposed to the more residential 29 7/8" width, I may have to trim a hair off one edge... I'm a fairly advanced DIY'er, and expect to be able to do this messy job with a 4 or 5" (not sure which I have!) angle grinder wheel... I hope I can somewhat polish the edge then too, not that it will show too much against the side of teh range, but just to smooth it out somewhat.
I"'d love to see a pic of your set-up. I'll share mine as well. I was also thinking (since I feel like I saved some $$ by the Costco/NXR deal, and not buying the BS or Viking, and the fact that the NXR already comes std with the 4" backguard that is easily a $200+ option on the other ranges), of maybe getting the slick looking, $99 SS back wall plate, also on sale thru Costco. Here's the link:
http://www.costco.com/Ancona-Stainless-Steel-Backsplash.product.100022614.html
"Sorry, I could go one & one... can you tell the hunt and a quality find excite me!?"

My response:

I did not have a problem with the leveling- legs when I installed my NXR because I had just recently finished re-leveling the kitchen floor in my 113 year-old house. Prior owners of my house had installed some plumbing improvements in the 1950s by carving 3" x 36" notches into the bottoms of six (!!) floor joists. I jacked the joists to level but, instead of cutting "sister" beams short and trying to wedge them in, I built glue-lams in place by "gluing and screwing" multiple layers of 8"wide x 96" long plywood "boards." I left the lally posts in place for a week while letting the construction adhesive fully cure. (Our city building inspector approved this procedure, btw.)

Shipping: Costco had the stove drop-shipped from from Duro's SoCal warehouse and it arrived in well packed in a cardboard box, wrapped with plastic and mounted on a wooden pallet.

Delivery Inspection: Costco's contract-carrier's driver had no problem waiting for me to strip the packing and check the range. Get a bright flashlight to inspect the oven interior and a 24" or larger level will be helpful for checking squareness. One additional suggestion: before hauling the range into the house, blow out the stove with compressed air and then vacuum it out to get rid of any accumulated manufacturing and shipping dust.

Oven door: Removing the oven door is very easy; remounting is the fussy part. The hinges are mounted to the door and have to drop "just so" into slots in the face frame. The NXR manual is no help on removing or re-mounting the door. However, Electrolux uses the same type of oven door hinges on their Icon stoves and their manual has illustrations of how to remove and re-install. Download a pdf of the Elux range manual either from the Elux website or from a vendor like AJ Madison who has links.

Backsplash: I looked at the Ancona stainless backsplash/plate, too, but wound up getting tempered glass plate instead because I had a non-standard space back there. It only cost about $120 from our town's glass shop.

I ended up with the Kobe SS backsplash, but my cabinets are not 100% centered above the stove, so I need something to help trim it out some. SS trim is not easy to find, and due to heat I don't want to use wood.

I bought mine from Costco the last time it was on sale (September), and it took over 4 weeks for delivery (not the 1-2 on the site).

I purchased my center grate from AJ Madison, which was $50, but almost $25 to ship. Still better than some of the $100 places.

This post was edited by jonw9 on Thu, Oct 31, 13 at 13:36

Jown,

What color stone do you have? Also like the gray/white tumbled tile? you used. Still need to pic ours out, yours looks so nice.

oalahego,

I hope Hallman comes through for you. It was 3 weeks after we put or order in online that we first heard from them, only to be told it was on backorder for more than 2 months. Since we paid via paypal, and only had 30 days to complete the transaction, we asked for our money back. This didn't happen without opening a dispute with paypal.

Thanks to all who seem as excited about a cooking appliance as I. Tomorrow is scheduled NXR delivery. I'll try to take pics and update all here, sicne you have all been as helpful with me as well. Earlier this week I checked in with Hillman since I had not heard anything from them, and not sure if I believe it or its the run-around, but their response was, wait for it, wit for it...
Backordered for something like 4 weeks... I may shop around even if I can't find the same no $hipping deal and just order from aother supplier... Costco also told me I could order direct from Duro... we'll see. I can't do the install yet, still working on the floor under.
Wish me luck!

My replacement arrived today. All looks good except for the bottom underside of door. There is an area about the size of a nickel that is missing the blue porcelin . I will be swapping doors with my previous stove and things should be good here.

issues with original nxr

a bur in the stainless steel top of stove was polished off. very noticible
painted or fixes in porcelain inside
some rust on inside edges of porcelain
cover for main oven burner has porcelain pieces missing
porcelain chips around broiler
porcelain chips on inside edge of door
a small dent in front kick plate
one burner knob did not sit evenly with others
some lettering on front panel looked uneven and almost bold compared to other type on same panel
one of the racks had large gouge in metal, that was then cromed over

our first unit was never used and is going back to Costco. So far I am pleased with replacement. build date of replacement is 8/13

black88mx6,

We got a small trim from New York Metal. Some small channel or snap on moldings might do ya. Because their minimum order is so large, we asked about dealers in our area and were able to work with a dealer to bring the price down - we needed single extra long pieces that drove the freight costs up. We bought ss cove molding.

What would have been about $300 direct was something like $35 dollars through the dealer WITH a wait.

Here is a link that might be useful: New York Metal

bmorepanic,

Thanks for the link. I am still looking to purchase some stainless steel trim, and NYM has what I want, but that minimum order will get me also.

I have been trying to contact Alloyed Decor, as they have what I want also, but I am unable to place an online order. I have also tried calling, but it only goes to a message without a return call.

OK, sorry, no pics yet, I'm still trying to get all this in line, but, first, acknowledgement to bmorepanic, who is still going thru (@#)*$()#@$ with her NXR saga... if you haven't followed her's head over to the thread in appliances about bluechips... her experience, totally mind-blowing... which, makes it all the more difficult for me to tell you this.

Friday was my NXR delivery, ordered on-line (Costco) 10/29; delivered 11/8, so just 10 days (if someone wants to check my math, not my strong point). Commom currier driver couldn't have been nicer. Mentioned this was his 9th delivery of these stoves - mind you, I'm in a close suburb of Chicago, so Costco is big around us and seems we're a good market for this item. He (driver) did mention some folks are totally caught off guard or just playing stupid about him lowering the truck lift-gate and "here's your new stove"... expecting he could somehow bring it inside! He was alone on this truck, and Costco's order process was very clear, Curb-Side delivery only - so I was ready. It 'landed' in my at-grade garage as the kitchen wasn't quite ready for it. I thought it made the drive from City of Industry CA rather quickly, until the nice chatty driver mentioned, "no, this shipment got flown in, to O'Hare..." and sure enough, all the stickers on the outside of box confirmed, it was flown in. O'Hare is a big mid-western hub, so figures they likely had quite a few of 'em on board.

Anyway, I'll post pics and review of the actual workings as soon as it's hooked up, but for now, I can comment on the condition of my specific range, and some topic hints to others contemplating the same purchase, and I'll close with a few questions from other owners, best be might be black88 or JWVideo...

To all contemplating, do your research and be mentally prepared IF you get the unfortunate one like bmore or others that have expressed their unhappiness... I do NOT blame them or question them at all, there are lemons in every chain, and these good folks may have gotten them, I also don't know how many NXR's the mfg sells, and even one person getting the bad one (like bmore) is one too many... but it 'sounds' to me like a countles number of the sales go thru and folks are pleased... I'm not totally convinced yet, but I'm not in a range yet either. So, that said... thru my research, I saw pictures of the 30" NXR for sale IN Costco stores, in Canada, could not find any in the US inside any stores, and Costco customer service all but confirmed that is true, but the pics I saw, and my delivery confirmed what I believe is the factory fresh, original packaging (I'll post a pic as soon as I can). The range itself is in a cardboard box, fully marked from the mfg, and strapped to a 'pallet' just a hair larger than the footprint of the range itself, THEN, that box and 'pallet' is strapped to a regular-sized (so fairly larger than the footprint of the range itself) wooden shipping pallet. The box had some plastic wrap around it, but honestly, I think that was done in shippping, maybe because mine was flown??, not sure if you'll all see that wrap, it wasn't shrink-wrapped or even water/weather-proof, just some of that wrap that sticks to itself. If your deliver is not in the box, maybe not on the double pallet set-up, I'd seriously question accepting delivery unless you are ready to do a very, very through inspection - right then & there. The cord had a hang-tag of the build date and initials for assembly and QC, I can't recall mine's build date at the moment away from the range, but it wasn't too old. And it looked like one assembly-line guy pretty much built/assembled the whole thing and his friend down the line did the inspection/gas leak testing. The inlet hole for the gas had a plastic plug over it (a nice touch that ALL appliances in shippment should have if you've ever left an appliance in 'storage' only to find a $100+ part cost when spiders or the like crawl inside those orifices! The protective plastic over almost all of the ss does leave some residue, and someone's suggestion on a post recommended a good vacuuming prior to install. I was lucky enough to have my NXR in the garage, and used my air compressor to blow any dust/shipping debris out prior to bringing it inside. I left as much of the film protection on until it arrived inside. As I mentioned in another thread, I used the new CLR brand spray can of SS cleaner.... worked effortlessly.

So, I begin the unwrap in the garage, plenty of light. And I have to tell you, well packed, the outside of the box, etc., showed no signs of damage, but you never know inside, or if the pallet was cropped or corner dropped, but mine looked good.

After reading so much on-line about fit & finish and some other purchasers issues, I really went over the entire thing... but I also was willing to pay a bit more (read that the equivlent of my state's sales tax) by ordering from Costco, because with such a major purchase, I wanted their satisfaction promise.

Happily, I did not find any huge dents, divits, etc., maybe very minor surface marks on the ss, but no more than the range would get with regular use in my kitchen, and certainly what I'd consider for 'new'. I've bought store display items, and even some take-backs and scratch-and-dent items, and this was nicer than any of those. Now to the inside of the oven. I removed the door, the racks and the bottom, to inspect. I may be fooled at times, but I am confident mine was new, not pre-used. It shows no sign of being fired-up, whew. In fact, I found (so far??) only one small area inside the oven, on a joint where the top and one side of the oven wall/ceiling join, where the porcelin may have been scratched in the joining or manufacturing process. Not down to bare metal, and an attempt (however not very good I might add) was made to paint or otherwsie touch up that little area. To be honest, tho- I wonder if my old stove has even more imperfections, and I wonder if I would have ever questioned this, or even known to have looked for it, had it not been for all the forum press (not only here on GW, but other places as well). Again, I am not taking away from others who appear to have a 'new' range damaged more than should be allowed, I'm just stating what I see on mine - and I am a stickler!

Door clearances, trim, finish, etc., all seem very well. Not sure if it's my imagination or the power of suggestion from others who had issue that I TRY to find something wrong, but maybe the top right of the oven door sticks out a tad more than the top left, or maybe it's the cabinet frame, or like I said maybe it's all in my head, but it's certainly not glaring, and may actually be nothing. I didn't try the magnet issue yet, but I knew from my earlier research that DURO changed the type of SS, likely as a cost saving measure, in the fairly recent past. I also note some other appliances that 'look' like stainess are actually aluminium, or a metal finish "like" stainless, and some other SS applances also use this lower grade, but since this is in my home, and I have some faith in the mfg and process, and again, Costco on my side, I went along.

I was happy to see the adjustible "legs" are pretty beefy, and the center shaft does leave for some adjustment... however, not sure of this yet, but i'm installing in a 125 y/o home, re-done kitchen, but floors out-of-level (character!), and countertops somewhat level, but again, you have to be realistic in this, so I had to adjust the legs pretty much to the top of their height ability. To me, right now, it feels as if since I've extended the legs pretty far up, and the stove is pretty heavy, that I get a little movement/shaking, if I try to shake the range, or when you open/close the oven door. My theory is if I dial-down the height of those legs, the more threads that go back inside the cup-like legs, I'm guessing the more sturdy it might feel. I snapped a pic of the legs to show you (soon!), but picture a ss cup inside a larger cup, the fixed larger one has a pretty thick threaded rod inside, and the smaller cup rides up/in or down/out of the fixed cup, thus adjusting the stove up or down. I put those "Super Sliders", 2 1/4 elf-stick discs (my tip) on the botton of the range legs to help in sliding the range in & out, and on tile, man does it work. Anyway, upon final install, I may dial the legs down, into each other and see if the shakiness/wobbliness subsides. If so, I may figure out some thin, solid 'platform' to put the legs on, I had made one out of 1x stock for our old range and dressed the front up with the same base molding as was on the cabinets - but I'd prefer the more industrial-look of the ss legs that come on the NXR, so ... we'll see.

The back of the range is covered with a metal plate, flush to the back/depth of the unit, except for the bottom appx 8-9" (again, sorry I have a pic to better illustrate this, but have to get it posted!). Anyway, this kind of 'indent' towards the bottom ~9" allows for the flexable gas line and power outlet placement, which will allow you to push the range almost up flush to the wall... give or take. Unfortunately, my current gas pipe stub-out is 11" off the floor, so, I have to replace that pipe with a little shorter section of black iron gas pipe before final installation. I also have to trim off appx 1/8th of an insh of our granite-like (Silestone) countertops that were installed years ago with the existing stive in place, and it was a TIGHT fit, add to that that the NXR is a true 30" wide stove, not 29 - 7/8" like older, standard ranges. Also kind of strange (in my opition) is the placement of the gas regulator on the NXR. Of course its on the back, but it is farily down low to near the ground, on the left side of the range (as you're behind looking at the back-side)... My worry was putting those flexable gas line fitings that low and then having to do a hard-right angle bend and potentially crimping/breaking the tube, so I installed a hard black iron, 90-degree, street elbow into the bottom of the regulator, so now my flex line (will) attach horizontally to that elbow.

I like to know how everthing works, so I did plug the unit in pre-installation to test spark and convection fan, and while I'm happy to report the fan was much quietier than I had expected, unfortunatly, it appears on burner ignitor/sensor appears to have been broken sometime during shippment. I fully expect Duro to make good on sending a replacement or sending their contracted vendor out to replace, but again, since I'm not installed yet... it has to wait. Those tall white porcelan 'column' of the electroid stand pretty tall. They look to be pretty well protected when all the 'rings' of the burners are on, but I imagine a jostle on an airplane or truck might be too much and just kinked one. I haven't checked glow ignitors for the oven nor broiler yet - but will be as soon as installation is complete.

I was able to record the part number for the convection fan, the broiler gas valve, the blue spark ignitor/sensor 'brain', and I think, from looking and experience, I can
confirm the broiler ignitor is the round, almost 'screw' type HSI... I hope that the oven ignitor is the flat, blade HSI one that I already have extras for (they do wear out over years of use). I did have to adjust the bevel on two knobs, but that's not becasue they were wrong, but just because I like as close to perfection as I can reasonably get, and the two were just askew enough to warrant me 5 minutes to tweak with a phillips screwdriver. One knob feels a bit 'looser' on the shaft than the rest, so I'm going to take a closer look and maybe request a replacement when I call in the sparker.
So, all in all, I am happy and I am releaved. It's a keeper so far. I'll know more when I finally get to light 'er up! I can't wait. Hillman says the center grate is on back-order, so I called Duro direct, and played stupid (something easy for me to do!) and asked if I could buy it direct. I wonder if I talked to the infamous Jose that 'bmore' spoke of... he indicated yes, but they are on back-order, he suggested another shippment to arrive in appx 2-weeks, we'll see. His direct price, for those of you interested, was reasonable, I think, at $50, plus $10 shipping. You do have to send them check or MO pre-, but still not a bad deal to complete the top look, and considering that back 3-4" stub backguard comes std on the NXR and is a $250-300+ option on BS, Capital, Viking, etc., a trade-off I'm willing to take/make.

So, now, on to which brings up my questions for those of you, like me, who like to know how their stuff works, and be able to repair on their own. One of you (and you know who you are!) already mentioned (and THANK YOU VERY MUCH!) how to remove the NXR oven door. Worked just like the 'other' manufacture's instruction manual said - as an aside/hint, removing the door (not only for inspection) but as well as the racks, grates, oven bottom, toekick and burners all lightened the load for hauling the beast inside. I and one other 'ordinary man' move it without the use of an appliance dolly via the "Forearm Forklift" lifting straps. (again, another of my hints! - get the 'real' ones from Menards, or the like, NOT the cheppie look-alikes from the dollar store!), and choke-up to the second or even third 'rung', bend down at the legs - don;t lift with your back, a bit and slide the straps up your forearm and NOT on your wrists, and place your palms on the top and side edge of the range, it may seem uncomfortable, until you stand and lift the range higher, but trust me, when you get the hang of these things, they are wonderful - just WALK carefully!). Anyway, I digress, back to the questions... So I think I could get a replacement gas valve if ever needed (haven't been able to see the part/model # on the oven valve yet due to its placement, but I have # from the broiler one, wonder if it's the same part #?, I can likely get a replacement blue spark controller from the model # promanintly displayed on it, and likely can find OEM or aftermarket ignitor's for the oven and broiler, have the part # for the convection motor if need be, but anyone know a model/part # for that little clear plastic, electronic 'relay' on the back? That handles inputs from oven thermostate, fan, light switches, etc.?? I can 'peek' into the underside of the range top with the back panel removed and see the workings for the burners/spark ignitors, but have any of you figured out how to actually remove the top (if it is removable?)? It doens't appear to have the same old 'slot' on the front where you used to push a putty knife and lift the top up like the hood of a car.

Lastly, (for now anyway), if I do go the route of maybe building a simple wood platform frame to rest the range's legs on (to raise-up the level higher), and want to wrap it in stainless (kind of like the American Range's ss 'curb' base), anyone know where I start a phone book or web search in the Chgo/suburban area, or what type of place I even look for? I've never commissioned any custom metal-type work.

Sorry this is long, but wanted to explain what I experienced in 'packaging' and what condition my range is in... I hope this helps others in their research and decision just as all your comments and postings have helped me.

happy cooking - SOON!

A goodly part of the oven works are behind the bottom front cover panel underneath the oven chamber. I haven't seen the new square panel or how its attached, but the old style one is just a couple of screws.

The rattling is probably the sliders. During final installation, consider removing the front two sliders (you can always put them back later). All the weight is in the front and it should keep it still.

That all I know. I wish you well with your new range. :)

Thanks for the update; the stoves come apart and go together pretty easy.

Also, if you don't like the big NXR badge, a heat gun and some dental floss will take it off in under a minute. Once done some 3M adhesive remover and a nice clean debadged stove. Keep the badge in case you want to return it to Costco at some time. ;)

Part numbers for the oven's bake element ignitor early NXR adopters StacyNiel and Susan(Dirtybloomers) have each posted generic replacement part numbers and Susan's post gives a step by step for the replacement, Can't find Stacy Niel's post right now but the link to Susan's post is below.

Glides/sliders I didn't need them on a smooth wood floor but are a good idea for tile floors. Also, give a small boost in height if you need it.

Levelling That can be tricky with old houses. With the NXR, its pretty much adjust, push the stove back in, pull out, readjust, push back in, etc. Alwasy seems to be one spot that's just a skoonch off kilter.

lifting/disassembling the stove top Stumped the band on this one. Anybody out there tried this? (Hoo boy, Is this ever a guy thing: get a new car/tool/whatever and take it apart to see how its made! Well, as Red Green says, "if it ain't broke, you're not trying.")

Here is a link that might be useful: if susan fixed her nxr oven ignitor u can 2 !

The plastic sliders have little foam pads inside +/- fuzzies to fit over the bottom. Both materials allow the range to move up and down.

JWVideo - are you sure you haven't popped the top?

Bmore; sure nice of you to continue to remark/contribute and be happy here for others, considering what you've been thru with yours. I'm still interested to hear what they do to either refund or otherwise keep you happy.

JW; as always, thoughtful and complete replies, helpful hints, etc., I'll have no problem changing the oven ignitor, my last (18 y/o) stove saw that ignitor changed no less than 4-5 times, broiler one once. Only 1 burner spark ignitor change on that one; hence, still interested to hear if anyine has done or watched a service co change the top sparker on an NXR... I'm the type that has an extra oven ignitor and now wants a top/burner ignitor, on hand, at the ready, for future fixes. We're not rough/bad on appliances, but we simply like to cook, and actually USE them for what they're designed for, so those consumable parts tended to last a few years with us - not complaining, I was able to find the OEM Electrolux parts (oven ignitor) finally on e-bay and one other on-line place for as little as $20/ea. I'm simply compiling my list of part numbers and availablilty should I ever need, if we keep the NXR. I put gas to it last night, temporarily, to both try it, and make dinner for the kids... but I still need to swap the gas pipe stub for a bit shorter to enable flush back-wall final assembly. A taks I tried last evening, but at 9:20, and the hourse gas shut off and temps outside nearing 29F, I could not budge the old black galvanized pipe free... I'll try tonight, a bit earlier, and try to draft a helper... one of us to hold the elbow in the crawal below, one to attempt to twist the pipe in the kitchen.

Black88; I'm getting my posters confused, yuo got another NXR from Costco, and are keeping the best of the two? Correct? Are you decided on keeps, or still thinking it over? id you return the other to Costco yet? Any issues? DId you really take the badge off already? only on there with that HD double-sided type foam/tape? How's it look 'naked' and de-badged?

I so wish the center grate was in stock & on its way... !

I'll try to figure my way around posting my pics now...

Yes, I have two of the NXR ranges in hand. The older of the two will be going back with any parts that I need to swap to make one good unit. ;) The older one has the chips in the porcelain that can not be replace. I will also swap the door with the new range, as that had porcelain damage also.

I will post some pics once I get the new unit up without the badge. There are some pics up on costco.ca site of a unit without the badge, it looks better without it in my book.

I pan on keeping the NXR and to start using it in a couple of weeks once my flooring gets put in. If I continue to have problems then I would most likely pull the trigger again and try for another. Costco has said that there is no problem with returning the first one when I can. (have this in email)

FYI, I didn't answer your question on the badge. Yes, I have taken off the badge on the door that I am going to be keeping. Double sided tape holds it on. There are NO holes in the door behind it, just clean metal.

Finally, all installed, hooked-up, and (almost) ready to cook. We finally got the gas line all hooked-up yesterday. While I did run both the oven & broiler to make sure they lit, I have not done a slow, initial 'burn-in' to try to rid the oils & coatings smell, but I plan to over the next day or two. We did use the range top for heating dinner and boiling. So far, so good. I by no means want to make light or 'poke the bear' sort to speak to other posters here and elsewhere, who have NOT had a good experience with their NXR (yes, Bemore, I'm specifically giving you and some others a knowingly look and a wink of support and good will here). I so far REALLY want this to work out, but again, have some time for mfg warranty, a bit of an extended, and then there's the whole Costco satisfaction thing. Anyway, moving on, I am trying to post a few pics, one, obviously, of it done & installed. I hope to post a few of specifics and hints, as others have done, that helped me in my research/decision process, such as showing you the inside of the adjustable legs, etc. Another 'hint' I came across, if I can share. Our floors are very out-of level, after all, this is a 125 y/o home. So, the adjustable/leveling legs came in very handy. I decided to leave the super (did I misspeak previously and call them "magic?", anyway, these are the smooth, kinda hard plastic ones, not the carpet/fabric types. They have double-sided sticky tape on them to help hold them in place, and they really do allow the range, heavy as it is, to slide almost effortlessly in & out. I was worried that the combination of adjusting the legs to a pretty high 'up' position left little 'overlapping' (for lack of a better term) threads inside the legs, AND the double-sided tape's cushioning may add to the previous comment on a bit of a wobble. I'm happy to report, getting in final placement and almost level (you settle on what you can given the home you have to work with!) and the movement is almost gone, certainly MUCH better than I had hoped/had before... so the hint I came across... I removed the front toe-kick (easy, 3 little screws & tilt away), I could lay on the floor and I could reach the front & BACK legs/cups. With my hands, and sometimes a helper helping to lightly lift just some of the weight off the floor, I could screw/unscrew and adjust the legs with my hands. So, you might want to try that before you twist/adjust/pull it out/re-do again and again. It worked for me.

Also wanted to point out that if you are reading/researching on these forums/posts, just be aware, probably like all/many manufactures, but seems more so here with the NXR, the mfg seems to make 'adjustments' and source part changes on-the-fly, and quite often... so if you get some word that the part/number/etc you need is "x", it may very well be the part on your range differs. Case in point, I've come across some design changes mentioned here on such things as oven bulbs (mine is a fairly new build range, in Sept 2013, and has a screw-in base, Philips bulb from Italy that says 25W, 300degree C; 125-130V; XB6 - where others have seen 'pin' type bulbs; the tow-kick design seems to have changed recently; the oven door handle bracket seems to have gone from a brushed ss to a more polished ss; oven igniter 'appears' to have changed from the flat/blade type of HSI to the more twisted, screw-looking HSI type, with almost the same 'base', although I am betting they are both interchangeable, as even the gas valves, both Oven and Broiler, display a pic of the flat type; etc. Point being, just verify on your range before you actually go and buy a part. Question for any of you here either doing your own repairs or having gone thru a top-burner spark igniter replacement... anyone know the part/model # for them? I'd like to get a spare to keep on hand - for when the time comes.

I also took pics and good notes, and identified the part #'s for the: main gas "regulator' on the back of the appliance, it's from "Global"; appears both the valves (one for oven one for broiler) are identical, at least on my range; the spark controller blue ‘brain’ box is tytronics model RI (for re-ignition) 120E-4, etc… good ‘to know’ stuff if you plan to keep appliances running for 10-20+ years, as I hope to with this one!

Anyway, I’m still awaiting on the back-ordered center grate, to complete my NXR look… I’m happy to try to answer any questions if anyone reading this has any, and will update as necessary.

Thanks again to all of you who helped in my search/research, and best of luck in your decisions.

oalehego-
In your first post you mention that the spark module can be found online for $40. Can you please (or anyone!) tell me where? We desperately need one and I can only find it for $136!!!
This is the "spark module", NOT the ignitors.....
Any help greatly appreciated!
Also- anyone else having issues with oven temp? Mine's consistently low. Not sure what to check to try to remedy, would rather not have to shell out $160 for a new thermostat!
Thanks...
Stacey

lifting/disassembling the stove top;

I found out how easy this is when I put on my island trim; once the rear trim is removed, and the top burner assemblies pulled, the stainless trays and center pieces just slide off to the back.

Oven Temps;

I thought I had a problem with this at first, until I tested with a good thermometer in the middle of the stove cavity after 20 min warmup. If you have confirmed your stove is still off, you can remove the oven temp knob, and down the center stem is the thermostat adjustment screw. It may be covered with some white no-tamper stuff, that would have to be taken off.

Thanks, that's helpful! But, bummer that I will need to slide the range all the way out to get at the module :( it's a tight fit!

Regarding the oven temp: we have confirmed it's not just our little oven thermometer location. For the last year or so, I've consistently had to set the thermostat 15 or so degrees higher to achieve proper cooking temps. it seems to vary across the dial, though (i.e. the variance is greater at lower temps) so I wonder if the problem is a thermostat adjustment or perhaps that the sensor is bad?

I am not sure I would try to adjust the thermostat if it is only 15 off. There are multiple resources on the web that show how to adjust a thermostat of this type; much better than I can type here. If your a DIY type person, then you know the risks/rewards of attempting this.

Stacy:

The OEM reignitor was a Tytronics unit. Some time last year, Tytronics sold that part of its business to a German based company called Elektro-Gerätebau GmbH in Oberderdingen which, in English, uses the unfortunate-sounding moniker "E.G.O. Hightec." AFAIK, the replacement reignitors for the NXR now all seem to be the same $136 price you noted.

The $40 price may be an Amazon price for generic reignitor replacement for Viking gas ranges. IIRC, those also used Tytronics 0-4 ignitor/reignitor units as original equipment. Since they use the same connectors those generic replacements may work in the NXR, at least in theory. I Haven't been able to track down any info on the interoperablity, yet, though a quick google search turned up some current Amazon prices for under $30 for the units.

On the oven thermostat/thermo-couple: my experience is that It is not uncommon for thermostats to settle a bit high or a bit low as they age which is why most ranges provide a way to recalibrate the oven control markings or display. Most ranges, but apparently not the NXR. (More on this below in my comments to black88mx6).

On the problem of your NRG model's oven running at temps lower than the marked settngs: I've had a different problem with the oven temp markings on my vintage 2012 DRGB model. The oven is pretty close to spot on in standard bake mode but the temps drop when the convection fan is running, almost like the auto-convection-setback feature on some stoves with electronic oven controls. In other words, when I switch on the convection fan, oven thermometers show that the temperature drops. The drop is roughly proportional to temperature. The higher the temp setting, the bigger the drop. At 400F, with the convection fan running (after appropriate warm up), the oven thermometers show around 360F. I have queried NXR/DURO about this a couple of times but have not heard back from them yet.

black88mx6:

I know of no way to adjust the dial markings on the NXR oven controls to match the actual oven temps. My DRGB model does not have an adjustment screw in the stem of the shaft. The shaft on mine is "C" shaped (with a corresponding "D" shaped socket in the knob). The inner-most quarter of the shaft has soft plastic filler and no set screw that I can see, Is yours different?

Now, for sure, the shafts for the stovetop burners do have set screws for flame adjustment, but I am not seeing anything like that on the shaft for the oven knob on my NXR.

If the oven temp settings were marked on the bezel around the oven knob, I could simply pull the knob, loosen the mounting screws and rotate bezel so the markings matched your oven thermometer readings. That's the usual "manual" way of adjusting/cailbrating gas oven dials controls. But, at least on on my DRGB, the oven temp markings are painted on the control-panel faceplate rather than marked on the bezel around the dial. If there were a digital oven control, you could simply key-in the adjustment. Obviously, the NXR models don't have any digital displays, so that is out, as well.

I suppose one could use oven thermometers to calibrate specific temps and etch or stamp correct marking points for each temp on the bezel.

Do you know, maybe, if there is a way to reposition the shaft for the oven control knob?

If not, it seems that calibration adjustments have to be made by arithmetic in your head.

This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Jan 9, 14 at 12:39

JWVideo,

Pull the oven knob off the stove (grip firmly and pull). The shaft for the oven is hollow with a notch in it. At the base of the shaft, there is a set screw that allows calibration. A long thin screwdriver is required.

On my NXR, this set screw is covered with white tamper resistant hardened white paint (plastic?) that would need to be removed first, but once removed the set screw is there.

This is how oven thermostats have been set prior to the microprocessor age. There are a few websites that show how to do this procedure.

This post was edited by black88mx6 on Thu, Jan 9, 14 at 12:37

That white stuff seems like some kind of sprayfoam. Tamper resistant? No s#:^ !!! They really don't want you messing with that setting.

There is still a lot of that stuff inside the shaft and I still can't see a screw. Maybe a little acetone would help?

There seems to be much less of the plastic in mine than what your describing; will take a pic of it later tonight and post. Could always replace it with a new thermostat that doesn't have the anti-tamper on it.

I would think that there is a easy way to clean it out, but I don't have enough experience there to recommend one.

To staceyneil;
Sorry, I've been off-line for a few days, but I see you're getting good advice from others that have also helped me here in the past. What JW said very well about one mfg product's being sold, I can't say for sure but he certainly seem to know the story well. When I quoted $40, it was for teh exact blue box re-ignitor unit, on e-bay when I last looked in Oct'ish. I just did a search for it using BOTH the RI120e-4 number that's on the Tytronics OEM unit, and also the part number (also on that blue OEM box - i snapped a pic of mine upon delivery to be sure I know what to get later if needed), and that # is PA020041. That PA number appears to be the same OEM unit used on some Viking stoves. I found a $60 buy it now and a $110 bid price on another. AS JW or another said, if you also search for either of those numbers, or # PA020047, on Amazon or even Google, you'll find alternatives much cheaper than your indicated $140 est. I THINK but cannot say at 100% certainty as I haven't tried it, that the PA...47 unit will work, but the spark cycle/speed is a tad slower than the OEM blue unit. Taht said, I can see no reason it won't work, and even the old OEM blue units you can likely still find some at various internet sites at cheaper than $140. It may take some time, but I bet you can find it.

Black88, thanks so much for teh info on how to get to the (spark) electroids under teh top, make sense. FWIW, I did find replacment individual burner electroids on-line, VERY reasonable, at only $21 apiece, but the shipping was $15. Maybe you can check there if you order your module AND a spare electroid, perhap a better deal... reach them via e-mail at sales the atsign guaranteedparts dot com

As for teh rest of you with oven temps... Our normal cooking is around 350-425, and I noticed right at the start, at lower temps, the control varies, so I got 2 fairly good oven thermoters and placed on a rack in about the center of teh oven. After some pre-heat, and sometimes fairly extended run times, our oven out of the box was about 15-20 degrees on teh LOW side (real temp compared to teh markings on the painted-on dial). SO I took to the adjustment. Now, I cannot recall if I turned the set-screw left or right for my adjustiment, but I do remember researching on You Tube and/or other Googled sites, and just an FYI, the adjustment on gas vs electric is very different. I dount you should be afraid to try, but do realize, you probably want to tweak the adjustment screw NO MORE than a QUARTER of a turn each time. A little goes a long way. THe process, just as a poster above suggested, was EXACTLY as mine did. The flat-head screw way in the center of teh shaft is almost (to my bad old eyes) invisible, but with a long, thin (almost jewler's screwdriver), I gently kept placing and "feeling" until I felt the blade bottom inot the screw head, and then slowly turned. If I recall (this was right before Thanksgiving), I think I tried/readjusted 3 times, 3rd time being the charm. Again, we use mostly 350, or 425, and ours is about as dead-on as I can imagine. It worked thru everyday family cooking since Oct install, thru a great Thanksgiving and Christmas cooking event for a house-full.

So far, very happy with the unit, even moreso now that (thanks to user above) I know I can get to change the spark electroid on the burners if need be, easily, even tho it means pulling the unit out a bit.

Cheers all... If I find a cheap source for any of teh parts, I'll update, but do try the site above or call them at 514 685 5202

Thanks! I did find a spark module for about $90. However, I'm also talking to the pros on an appliance repair forum, and there is some debate as to whether it's the spark module at fault or the burner switches. Hate to spend all that $$ on one or the other and not be right. There must be some way to diagnose which it is!

Well, here we are almost into our 4th month of the NXR and I am happy to report, still lovin' int. I do have 2 updates, one about my purchase, the other, an offer to try to help a reader here, staceyneil.

First, my update. I am a firm beleiver of truth and doing the right thing. So, way early on in my post here about my purchase, I mentioned that I ordered the center grate from an on-line TX based appliance company called Hallman. Turns out, Hallman is affiliated, as in the same CEO or such, with another on-line appliance company called Aus-Tex. It's teh same man and same e-mail connection, I know cause I tried and did my reserch. Anyway, when I say I 'ordered', I ordered and my credit card got charged, then began the saga of the item being on backorder. Now I can certainly understand and appreciate a backorder, I also can be understanding regarding the story that the center grate for teh NXR comes from overseas just as teh range does, and it takes a while, comes in ship containers, etc. What I would expect is professionalism and honesty. My credit card was charged immediately for the order. Had I not reached out to inquire when the item would arrive, I doubt Hallman would have reached out to me. But the follow-up, iniatiated all by me, always, began. Back ordered, expected in 4 weeks, continued back ordered, expected soon, expected 4 weeks, etc. Finally, on Jan 21 (yes it was ordered back on Oct 28th) I e-mailed saying if there was no better, definite date, I'd like to move on and cancel the order - I mentioed I didn't think it appropriate that they charged a credit card before merchandise was shipped. The same-day response from Hallman was "Arrived. We are indivdually packaging them now, and preparing to ship out later this week". That was Jan 21. Today is Feb 11th. My credit card company has been notified and teh charge placed in dispute. I have found numerous other suppliers for the center grate, and as soon as I receive confirmation from my credit card co that the charge will be permanently reversed, another company will get my business on this order. So, I'm not telling you NOT to order from Aus-Tex or from Hallman Industries, but Ill let you draw your own conclusion to how good or not that kind of customer service is. You be the judge.

Second update, to Stacyneil, who is having some issues with ignition. I saw your post of advice on an appliance web site, and despite registering there, I was unable to post or REPLY an answer. I am not an appliance repair person, but a very advnaced DIY'er who has more than my share of repairs. I have a few ideas or suggestions on tried BEFORE you replace the expensive re-ignition control box, if you want to reach out here on the blog/board, or contact me thru e-mail. I'll try to help, your call.

Thank you! We actually fixed it by doing a super-thorough cleaning including soaking and pressure-air cleaning. So far so good!

Thanks for the update; same experience with Hallman

How do I adjust the front legs of the Range to make it level with the countertop? When it was installed my stove slants down from the back to the front. Cookie trays slide forward and so does bacon on a hot griddle. I see the legs I just don't know how to adjust them. Do I turn the stainless steel legs by hand? I tried that and it doesn't seem to turn. I have the DRGB3602. Thank you

Macgruff69 --

I see nobody has responded yet. I think your question may be getting overlooked because it has a been a year and half since the last post in this thread and this thread is about the previous 30" NXR model, the DRGB 3001. You might have better luck finding an answer specific to
your stove if you started your own thread with a title like "How to
adjust leg height on NXR DRGB3602?"

FWIW, you can find descriptions of leveling the DRGB3001 (by adjusting the cups at the base of the legs) above in olahego's posts of November 12 and 14, 2013.I'm guessing it is still the same on your model, but I do not know.

You also can call the NXR customer service line in the back of the manual. (Three years ago, when I got my stove, the number was 877-639-7264.)

Thank you Jwvideo. I figured it out shortly after I posted. At first peek I couldn't see the metal legs are actually two pieces. I was able to twist the lower piece to make the necessary adjustments.

Thanks again for the follow up on my question .

Congrates. I look forward to a review or two from you.