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quizzicalcat

Is this old cooktop dangerous?

quizzicalcat
9 years ago

We have an older Kenmore electric cooktop with solid-element (disk) burners. Often, one or more of the burner indicator lights are on when the burner(s) are off. Google tells me this is common and likely a result of failed contacts. Since I trust the Gardenweb community more highly, I wanted to ask if you think this is OK to live with.

I am not interested in repairing this cooktop. We will be replacing it with a Bosch induction cooktop in the at least dimly foreseeable future, but that necessitates upgrading our ventilation and modifying cabinetry which is more than I want to take on just this moment.

Thanks in advance,

Diana

Comments (11)

  • sjhockeyfan325
    9 years ago

    but that necessitates upgrading our ventilation and modifying cabinetry

    I don't know the answer to the original question (is this cooktop dangerous?), but since you already have a cooktop, is it really that hard to take it out and drop in the Bosch induction cooktop now? (I have one and LOVE it). Why would you need more ventilation? Ventilation depends mostly on what you're cooking, not the cooktop itself. As for the cabinetry, if the issue is a drawer below the current cooktop, just take it out and cover the open space with a panel of some sort. For a 30" Bosch induction, you only need 30 amps of electrical, and 40 amps for the 36".

  • weedmeister
    9 years ago

    Are the old 'burners' hot when the dial is off and the lamp is lit?

  • lascatx
    9 years ago

    I had one of those and in my mind, they were unsafe when they were sold. Time to chuck it. Seriously. Not only are they the worst cooking surface ever, they take so long to heat and then stay hot so long that they are a danger in terms of burns or melting other things set down cuz the hot burners look just like the cold ones. They heat the room. I used to put a pot of water on any hot burner to prevent accidents and to take the heat transfer from the burner so the kitchen wouldn't get as hot.

    I think I had a couple of indicator light issues, but what was worrying me most was the rusting on the sides of the discs. Cleaning the cooktop might mean water getting into the electronics. I also had at least one burner that wouldn't come on at low. When the electronics aren't good, no reason to lose sleep or risk a fire. Those big projects have a way of getting put off longer than you think or being forced in the worst ways (fires and floods being among those). If you know what you want, get someone to help you figure out how to rough it in.

    I'm guessing the ventilation is replacement because your cooktop has a downdraft. If its like mine it is very loud and not very effective. I didn't use mine that often but use the overhead one all the time now. Is your cooking style such that you could live without the vent for a short time? If you cook a lot of fish, curry, bacon or fry a lot, perhaps you could find a downdraft on Craig's list or at a Habitat Restore at a price that would justify roughing it in as a temporary fix. I'd even consider a smaller unit that I might donate or sell when it's time for the big job.

    If that's not the issue, let us know what is. Maybe we can help you figure out a temporary solution. But if it were me, I'd rip that thing out, plop down some plywood or a remnant of something to cover the hole and use a couple of portable induction burners as a temporary solution if roughing in the cooktop you want can't work.

    Did I mention I hated that cooktop?

  • hvtech42
    9 years ago

    Are you sure they're not "hot surface" lights that stay on when you turn off the burner but go out once it's cooled off?They are common on smoothtop electric cooktops but I've never used a solid burner cooktop so I'm not sure if they even have those.

  • lascatx
    9 years ago

    The solid discs were made, from what I'm told, for only part of one model year (they were such an instant failure) and it would have been about 25 years ago. Don't think they used any sensor lights back then and I know mine didn't have anything like that. Even if it wasn't a POC 25 years ago, now that it is that old and showing electric problems, it's time to replace.

    This post was edited by lascatx on Wed, Oct 8, 14 at 2:36

  • quizzicalcat
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for your responses all!

    They are definitely "element on" indicators. The elements are cool, or cooling down, when the dials are in the off position and hot, or heating up, when they are on, independent of the malfunctioning lights.

    I realize I didn't explain the ventilation issues. The current hood is mounted undercabinet and back vented. It is underpowered, undersized, noisy and unattractive (oddly bisque with otherwise all black appliances). I don't know the specs because on the tag the fields for CFM and sones are dashed lines. I'm guessing they are not good.

    The only reason it is barely adequate is because, and I'm laughing as I type this, only one of the large burners works (I supplement with an induction burner and a plethora of small appliances). It would not be sufficient for the way I or most people cook on a fully functioning cooktop. I don't think the previous owners actually cooked.

    The hood is 30 inches wide, only 18 inches deep and 6 inches tall, over a 30 x 22 cooktop with standard depth counters. The replacement hoods I've looked at are taller and deeper. The problem is the cabinet over the cooktop is not standard and there is only 26.5 inches between the bottom of the cabinet and the countertop. The bottom edge of the current hood is at my eye level (I'm 5'2"), so those would literally be hitting me in the face. My husband wouldn't be able to see what he is cooking!

    I expect we will remove the cabinet and put in a wall mounted hood. But then we will want to replace the backsplash, which we can't do until we replace the counters, which I don't want to do until we redesign the peninsula ...

    I realize It is time to replace these truly bad appliances. Maybe I can hang something over the opening for the old vent until we make it all pretty. Function over form!

  • lascatx
    9 years ago

    Don't feel bad. I only had two burners that mostly worked by the time I was able to rip mine out. My reno got delayed 2 or 3 times. My double ovens had one oven with a door that wouldn't close after opening (eventually, we got it closed again, but we couldn't cook in it) and the other had cracked interior glass that could no longer be replaced. And they were small, so I didn't want to replace with the same size. It limped along, but I was really afraid of not making it to the reno in time.

    Maybe you can find an inexpensive (even used) hood for a temp or just limp along with what you have. Or use paint for your backsplash. Or an accent piece. Have a stainless piece made to fit behind the stove -- inexpensive if you go directly to shop or use tiles from a big box store. Just get creative and figure out something you can live with. You are already living with a lot of compromises.

  • weedmeister
    9 years ago

    Companies do make vents that are only a few inches (2) tall, but they take up the cabinet above. If you don't mind losing the interior of the cabinet, one like that may work for you.

  • jwvideo
    9 years ago

    In addition to the hoods that Weed mentioned, you might want to check out some of the Zephyr Cyclone models. I have an older model that is only about 5" high and got it because of similar old house cabinetry limitations. The Cyclones pull 650 CFM (or so they claim) and are cabinet hung and 22" deep, so they work pretty well compared to what you have now. IIRC, the newer Cyclone models are about the same 5" height except at the very back where they butt against the back wall --- there is a downward faring (about 2.5") to accommodate the rear vent and the grease traps.

    Of course, it will be better if you can redo the cabinets and get a fully canopied vent. But, if you can't, these are an option along with the hoods that weed mentioned. If the remodel is getting deferred into the really dim future, you might be happier getting that Bosch induction cooktop now and one of these lesser hoods now.

    This post was edited by JWVideo on Wed, Oct 8, 14 at 18:11

  • alex9179
    9 years ago

    Well, I would deal with the ventilation element at a later date if a piece of my equipment wasn't safe. Can you drop in a cooktop in the existing cabinet until you redesign?

    I replaced my old radiant cooktop with an induction a few months ago. I cook all the time, and when a sale and credit card points aligned to give my family of 5 a free one-way trip to our planned vacation spot, I jumped on it! That style cooktop had been on my wish list for at least a year before I bought one.

    I don't have any ventilation but a door and window in my kitchen. For some reason, builders in the Houston area think cooktops are awesome in 24" wide islands and venting is superfluous. This isn't being changed in the near future and, at least, the heat produced while using the cooktop has GREATLY decreased.

    I have no problem upgrading appliances before redoing layout issues. I have to work in here every day and I want things that help me, not make me work harder. I've replaced every original appliance and added helper ones over the last 7 years...thank goodness.

  • lascatx
    9 years ago

    Alex, the builders also like to put cooktops in islands with weird shapes, no landings spots on at least one side or just generally too short. And most folks seem to keep the arrangements when they update their kitchens.