Pros:

The Jones' don't have it.

Keeps the backsplash from getting a cluttered look.

Cons:

Expensive

Hard to install

If you leave small/short appliances on the counter plugged in you will see the cords going up, which sort of defeats the purpose.

Are strictly not legal anymore because they are not tamper resistant, and your jurisdiction may fail you on inspection.

Task lighting sells angled plugmold that is tamper resistant. Not sure how pricey it is though. Would love to know....

For many more posts related to Plugmold, search the kitchen forum.

kas

Pricing from my KD on task TR plugmold last Feb

pricing on the APS Tamper Resistant strips.
24" $101.87 x 4 = $407.50
30" $110.12
42" $136.25
60" $168.74

Where do you find plugmold? This stuff is so hard to find in western Canada. Home Depot carries it but only in 4' lengths and I need 2'.

Very frustrating.

I found no stores in the Boston area that carried Task TR plugmold. I had to find the company representative for the area and give the info to my KD (since I couldn't order it directly). He then ordered it for me.

I'm sorry if everyone already knows the answer - but what is tamper resistant? I know what plugmold ares but I haven't heard about tamper resistant before.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/wiring/

ask this in the wiring forum.
you will get a precise answer.

Here is a link that might be useful: elec wiring

"Tamper Resistant" basically means "child resistant". Sometime around 2008 a new Code went into effect in many (most?) municipalities requiring all outlets be tamper resistant. Some of us were "lucky" enough to finish our remodels just b/f the new code went into effect, so our Plugmold is not tamper resistant. I had my final inspection in July 2008 and just missed the new Code that went into effect in September 2008.

Here is a thread that might be useful...

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Plugmold, Wiremold, etc.

TR receptacles are designed so that using a single object to push into the receptacle is blocked; two plug blades have to be inserted together. This will inhibit children pushing single hair pins (do these still exist) into receptacles until they are old enough to realize that two hair pins will work. Unfortunately, putting actual plugs into the receptacles is also difficult -- at least until the receptacles "wear in."

kas

It's just big brother looking out for you so you don't have to parent or have any personal responsibility.

It's worse. Many nanny agencies have to do a cost-benefit analysis. The NFPA doesn't. All it needs are manufacturers engaging in rent seeking by changing the rules. Just another nail in the affordable housing coffin.

kas

I have similar outlet strips in my 1950's kitchen and LOVE them. I wish mine were up high like that though, then you wouldn't be moving things around to reach the plugs. You get so many outlets without so many darn receptacles clogging the walls. BTW, when we had our electrical panel upgraded, we had the strip outlets near the sink put onto their own GFI protected circuit. It does mean that if it were to trip, you'd have to make a trip downstairs to reset it, but I've never once had it trip. The GFI bit doesn't have to be right there in the kitchen.

I had plugmold installed in my kitchen and in my bar. The electricians installed the bar plugmold before the countertop was installed, and they had it located too high up so that if you wanted to plug in something with one of those big square plugs, it wouldn't fit. I unscrewed each piece of plugmold and moved it down without a problem. Then I plugged several appliances into it and they worked for a bit and then blew the circuit breaker. I reset the circuit breaker, but none of the plugs work anymore. Is there a fuse or a GFI located inside these units which could have blown? I am sure the circuit breaker is on, but I can't understand what is going wrong????

To my knowledge Plugmold does not incorporate fuses or internal GFI. Your GFI may have failed. Are you certain you turned if off and then fully on after it tripped?

Another question is how did you move the Plugmold down? Did you rewire its connection? You need to turn the breaker off and check the condition and tightness of any wire nuts used to connect the Plugmold wiring with the circuit it is connected to.

My impression is that you need to pose this question to someone informed and local to you who can look at your electrical system, such as an electrician.

kas