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Sat, Aug 23, 08 at 16:27
| Can anyone suggest the name of a top-notch service person familiar with these ranges? I have had every local person look at mine - the oven goes off unexpectedly. The thermocouple (heat sensor) and the piece next to it (the nozzle?) have both been replaced, and still the problem persists, worse when the tank is low and perhaps the pressure is lower. This has been in my family since new, and I love the burners, even though the oven is a little small. I have called Garland, and they advised me to buy a new stove (surprise). This fits me and my kitchen perfectly, as it is 38" wide and only 24" deep, as well as serving the dual purpose of keeping my old drafty farmhouse kitchen warm on winter mornings with the non-electronic pilot light ignition. But it also lets me down when I am baking bread, and I am getting desperate to find someone who can actually figure out the problem. I am north of Toronto, and would even drag the stove to the right person. TIA to anyone who has suggestions. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| garland didnt mean for you to buy a new garland but a new residental range of your choice. Most commercial techs won't work on products installed in resi settings so your likely out of luck there too. I'd look for a tech that has a little experience but not a lot and is patient and also willing to work with you. Tall order though. |
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| Hi. The Thermocouple (or thermopile) is only used to start the oven...it is warmed by a lit pilot flame and sends a electric signal that says it's "o.k." for the gas to flow-even if you turn the gas on, it won't flow unless the thermocouple is warmed --it's like a safety feature. Sometimes the pilot needs to be set higher, or sometimes the thermocouple needs to be ever so slightly closer to the pilot flame- However, if the oven goes on, and starts to heat up, then it's probably O.K.- although sometimes you may need to do the above adjustment. The real 'heat sensor' is the sensor/thermostat. It restricts the gas flow when it reaches a certain temperature, and then turns it back up when the oven cools down. Basically it cycles the oven gas on and almost off to maintain a temp. range. It sounds like your problem is one or the other, or a bit of both. Does the pilot stay lit? Does the oven come on? My best guess from what you've said is that it's the thermostat or it's sensor. That is, if the pilot stays lit, and if the oven lights and starts to burn when you turn it on, but after a while it shuts off and stays off, it sounds like the thermostat. Sometimes the thermostat is under the temperature knob. Sometimes it's a diaphragm that is controlled by a liquid filled bulb at the top of the oven cavity- heat expands the liquid that goes through a small tube to the diaphragm that closes down the gas supply, but should then open back up when the liquid cools. Different thermostats operate differently and I am not an expert. |
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| Garland did not make residential ranges in 1955, their first was 1988. What you have is a commercial range and you will need to call a restuarant equipment service company, call Garland and they will direct you or try adco service. |
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| You can google "old gas range restoration" and find a lot of info but mostly in Michigan and California and mostly about high end antiques. But also parts. Sometimes local antique dealers and old established real estate agents have contacts with people who restore old electric and gas home items as a sideline or hobby. Might be worth a call in your area. Good Luck!
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Here is a link that might be useful: Old appliance
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- Posted by oldgranny2 (My Page) on Fri, Nov 28, 08 at 4:21
| I bought a Garland gas range in 1970. It was OLD when I bought it. In the last 30 years I have had the safety valves and pilots replaced twice. The thermocouplers three times. All this in trying to fix the ovens which would shut off right in the middle of baking. Nothing worked. The left oven worked fairly well so I just used the right one for storage. About 6 months ago I decided to try again. The repairman replaced the three items and still the ovens would shut off. I asked him if lack of air circulation (oxygen) could cause the fire to go out and he said there was no obstruction to the air flow. All that spendy work done and still not solved. About two weeks later I had my son help me move the stove out about 6 inches further from the wall. That's all it took. The ovens have both worked fine since. I have had to use little oven thermometers in each oven for years as the thermostats don't regulate the heat to the chosen settings. The next thing will be new thermostats. All in all, I wouldn't swap this old stove for a brand new one if they gave it to me free. Lorraine Eckhardt |
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- Posted by John H.(jwhltd@aol.com) onMon, Jan 10, 11 at 14:50
| I own a propane company and I have a customer that has an old Garland from the 60's, 5 foot long, 2 ovens, 6 burners and a griddle. I need thermostats and cannot find them. Garland says they are not available any more. Just wondering if anyone out there has them? |
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- Posted by organic_farm (My Page) on Sun, Sep 2, 12 at 12:33
| I also have a 1955 Garland residential stove, with the original documentation and bill of sale. I love it for the same reasons, the pilot lights keep my farmhouse kitchen cosy in the winter, and it bakes great bread in the small oven. mine has 4 burners with the star grates, and a griddle on top. We had the same difficulty with keeping the oven running. We tried a new thermocouple assembly, which was the generic version from our local gas dealer, but that didnt solve the problem. What did was adjusting the positioning of the thermocouple, as apparently it keeps moving from the constant heat, so the metal bracket that holds it gradually creeps out of alignment with the flame below it. My husband adjusted it minimally to lign up properly, and has done this a few times over the past years that I have had it. The fix works, and the oven runs like a charm. Hope this helps. |
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