a bad connection.

one of my burners started clicking.. It worked fine for 10 years but just started clicking (continuing to spark) after the burner was lit. the flame was fine so it was definitely in the ignition circuit somewhere. I pulled the burner off (disconnect the gas line to the burner first) and the wire that goes to the ceramic spark post fell out -- it was corroded. I soldered an extension piece into the wire so that I'd have some slack to work with, cleaned up the end (cut, stripped about a half inch) put some solder on it to stiffen it up, reinserted it into the ceramic post, hooked up the gas and it works again.

so, a loose or corroded connection up inside the ceramic starter post is the likely culprit for others with similar problems. It seems to me that if you have the range top apart for cleaning, then the wires to the ignition posts could easily get bumped which pull them out enough to cause this problem.

chefwong, if you're still around I'd love to hear if you got the problem fixed. I just bought a Wolf, so would like to hear if any of the suggestions worked or Wolf finally figured it out.

Thank you for letting us know if it got resolved. I hope it did.

I have an older Wolf stove. I have never been able to get the electronic ignition for the burners ot work for more than a few weeks after the repair man leaves but I have lots of matches.
A few months ago the flame on two front burners got quite yellow with the result that pots got black bottoms. So I called in the Wolf technician for the area. There is no model number on the those but he took a picture and figured it out. He said I needed some new parts which are no longer available here in Mexico. So he modified some parts from somewhere so the two front beurners still are sooty but the two back ones are annoying. When on high they work fine but when I lower the heat to simmer they start to click continuously. I assumed this was the electronic ignition. Quite annoying. For simmer I've found I can move the pots to the two front burners which on low don't soot up the pots or click. I don't know what to do as the Wolf technician refuses to come back.

When you say clicking do you mean the igniters are sparking? It's the way the things are built. As far as sooting you may have a dirty jet. People who use gas welders and cutting torches are familiar with dirty jets. Its the same concept. I work on home appliances for a living and if you want I can explain how the igniters work and why when 1 sparks they're all supposed to.

I thought it was the igniters making the noise but maybe not. The clicking wasn't there previously. Dirty jets-I'll have to check them out.

The Wolf people on the line were helpful and over a few phone calls walked us through a few things to try. First because it happened when it was being cleaned, we turned on the burners for 10 minutes to heat them up well and evaporate all water. Then we turned off the breaker for 30 minutes to allow the circuit board to reset. Then we used the oven at 450 for an hour and turned it off at the circuit breaker again to allow it to sit at a high temp without fans dissipating the temp to try to dry out anything on the circuit board. THIS WORKED!

We have been experiencing this for a long time. we were very disappointed when we purchased what we thought was a high end appliance. I am doing this procedure right now. If this works, we will have a very happy Thanksgiving! Thanks for posting this information. Fingers crossed!

We have a Wolf AG range. I find that moisture will cause clicking. Either moisture inside the burner cap or burner itself following cleaning or a spillover, or when there's condensation on the outside of a pot while heating it. Once the moisture dissipates, the clicking usually goes away.

Were you guys able to get this figured out? I've worked on 2 wolf ranges and so far it's been the module that generates the spark and a defective electrode. I've also read that it can be a bad connection from the stove to the house and dirty electrodes or worn out sensors that prevent the module from sensing that the electrode is hot. johnwb80@gmail.com is my email if you need help.

Hi, All,

Great thread, ad thank you for all the insights and tips...I enjoyed reading each entry. Okay, here's one for the books. My wife and I inherited a Wolf range with our new house. The back two burners were doing the clicking in the "high position," but fine on all other settings. Front two burners were just fine. After reading all the entries on this thread, I was seeing a very expensive repair bill in our near future. Enter my wife. As I stood over the stove and fretted about the added expense of the usual bills one shoulders in a new house (older home actually), my wife asked the question: why was it that when we had issues with the burners in our other homes, all that was needed was to reseat the top covers? Immediately I lifted the grills, and presto, they were not properly seated, and in seconds, was now staring at a very high functioning stove top with four awesome burners, and one cool stove...actually hot, but there it is, my .02

I have an older Wolf gas range and when the burners spark ("click"), I find the problems is solved when I clean the burner cap (make sure the tiny holes aren't blocked).

New igniter/re-igniter module does not depend on sensing the heat, and it does not require additional heat sensor. It lets tiny electrical current passing from the spark to burner through the air in between ironized by fire. If the current is interrupted, it means the fire is gone an time to re-ignite. Therefore, keeping burner clean is important for the fire detection working properly. Air/gas mixing ratio could also affect detection when the burner is simmering.

My Wolf burners clicked constantly whenever I set a pan on the burner. Try twisting the outer burner rings clockwise so that the little indented line on the ring is positioned further away from the spark igniter ... move it little by little, testing as you go, until it gets to the point where it doesn't click.

Ok I had a boil over on the wolf range. Afterwards, the ignitor would continuously fire. After switching the breaker off, I removed the suspect ignitor. I had seen other videos commenting that oil on the ignitor may affect the flame sensor. I soaked the tip (not the wires) in some laquer thinner (or acetone, denatured alcohol, etc) for about fifteen minutes. I dried and reassembled and it is working 4.0 now.

I had this problem and found someone who knew how to fix it! Yay! I tried lots of other things but this one has worked permanently.

On our range (a 4 burner unit), there is a metal ring around the outside of the burner unit made of a flat thin steel. You can see it when you take the black top plates off. It stands on 2 posts that are screwed into the top of the stove platform with the screws that hold the burner unit in place. Removing that ring stopped the clicking. Simply remove the 2 screws, take the ring off and then put the screws back in. The guy who showed me this fix (a Wolf repair person I had fixing my dishwasher) said that the ring is not required on some models.

" ... the ring is not required on some models"

Which models?

Not sure if anyone is still following this thread, but after living with a very frustrating clicking situation I think I had a breakthrough tonight. I read all the posts and I think I feel that the problem is build up of carbon or dirt near the igniter or somewhere in the burners. So I took a very dry dish cleaning brush, this one is made by Libman. I took the brush which has some short stiff bristles and some longer bristles and I just went to town on the burners. I concentrated quite a bit on the igniter and then also worked on the gas rings themselves. Of course I did all this with the cover plate removed. Lo and behold after having a burner that constantly clicked, it stopped clicking. . Hallelujah! Then I did the same procedure on all the other burners and one by one they all stopped clicking. I have had this problem consistently for the last 11 years that I have owned the stove. It is a wolf stove with four burners and a dual fuel oven. Hopefully that may help people. And I hope that my fix continues to work for me. Good luck every one,

Chris

We bought this home one year ago, which had a wolf gas cooktop in it (CT36G/S) I would say the cooktop is about 7 years old. in this time never had problem, well...tonight I was using the large burner as I turned the control knob off, the flame went out, BUT it continue to click and you could see it trying to ignit. The control knob even though it was on the off position showed it on (red). HELP! We shut the gas off, and the only way to stop the clicking was to cut the power from the breaker box

missy

Hello,

OP here. Can't believe this thread is over a decade old. To report back, I've had at least 7-10 visits from service during my warranty period........

OUTSIDE of warranty, I just rebuilt my wolf stove again. In total, I myself have rebuilt it twice. Rebuilt means gut the top pan off, replace all gaskets, spark modules, ignitors. On this round of rebuild, I also replaced 2 15K distribution rings.

Not for the faint of heart for someone not mechanically comfortable or easy on the wallet. Parts are all locked in MSRP from wolf, and is insanely expensive. I promise myself that if a 3rd rebuild is scheduled, I may just jump ship and go Bluestar !

I had our repair guy out. Did a lot of work on the wolf range and subzero fridge(s) (under warranty even though we were out of the period) and just charged us a service call (~$75). Better to get the service guys involved early.

Gosh. I would hate to imagine what the cost would be. I've seen the work of the authorized SZ wolf techs. My emergency toolbox has more tools than them than my full sized toolbox. Granted this is regional, but I think the hourly for a wolf guy out here is $150-$180 per hr !

HI, I HAVE NO CLICKING AT THE TOP RIGHT BURNER, I PURCHASED A NEW IGNITER AND INSTALLED IT AND STILL NO CLICKING AT THE BURNER? ANY SUGGESTIONS? KAROL

WHY DO ALL THE OTHER BURNERS WORK THEN?

Some stoves have four separate spark modules, and some stoves have a single spark module with multiple outputs. In both cases, it is quite possible that just one of the outputs is defective.

Other than the spark module, you could have broken wires, poor connections, short circuits, misaligned igniter electrodes, poor grounding of the electrode, ...

Its one spark module per burner.

The spark modules are located under the top sheet. To get to them, you need to remove the burner heads. Subsequently, also breaking every gasket on every burner. Those gaskets are not cheap.....

Not for the faint of heart on the wallet.

DIY, I had to replace one spark module this fall. Since I was breaking $300 in gaskets that needed to be replaced, I replaced ALL my spark modules and ignitors. Repair once, Cry once I suppose.

I REMOVED THE WIRE TO THE RIGHT FRONT IGNITER AND PLUGED IT INTO A DIFFERENT SPOT ON THE

BOX IN THE BACK OF THE STOVE AND THEIR IS STILL NO SPARK AT THE RIGHT FRONT BURNER WHERE I REPLACED THAT IGNITER. I ALSO CHECKED LOOSE CONNECTIONS. I TOOK THE KNOB OFF THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE STOVE AND LOOKED THRU THE HOLE AND THEIR IS A LITTLE BLACK BOX APROX 1 IN X 1 1/2 IN THAT HAS A CRACK ON THE CORNER OF

IT. IS THIS THE SPARK MODULE FOR THIS BURNER ABOVE IT? COULD THIS BE FAULTY

SINCE IT HAS A CRACK IN THE BLACK PLASTIC?

It's really hard to read what your saying. Is there a reason why you need to YELL SO MUCH? I think, I'd actually hear you better if you spoke quieter.

When you say you plugged it into a different spot, what exactly do you mean? Did you unplug the igniter for one of the other burners and then plug your new igniter into that spot? If so, that should work, if the other igniter was known to be good. But you might have to turn both of the burners (the one that you temporarily commandeered and the one that you want to fix) on in order to test this theory.

I don't have a Wolf, but all of these appliances are really similar in design. There should be a switch that is attached to the knob, a spark module (either shared or per-burner), and an igniter. Each of those parts can be defective or can have bad connections. The igniter typically has only a single electrode and the return-path for the electricity is through the other metal components. This means, in some designs it is very important you tighten the screw that holds the igniter. This is also important in order to ensure proper alignment.

That's quite possible. But I find that most people in that situation opt to write everything in lower-case. If you look at the history of written characters, the uppercase letters were always considered harder to read and that's why we introduced lowercase letters.

my wolf stovetop has been clicking for over 2 hours. it is driving me crazy

Um, well that's one way to kill the life of a spark ignitor.

Carole, Did you recently clean around the knobs with a wet cloth or sponge? If so water could be bridging the contacts in the knob shaft igniter switch.

If this is the case pull the knobs off and use a hairdryer to blow down and around the switch to dry it out.

Great thread. I'm experiencing the same clicking with my Wolf stove top, but wondering why the clicking stops when both burners on the same row are on. Does this indicate the pressure for the gas has changed or does it lead to something else? I've gone the cleaning route and that has not helped.

I've seen that yet I have no idea why. The igniors are independants, and so are the gas lines. I will say very rarely, sometimes if the exterior of the pan is cold from condensate(heat/cold liquid in pan) or just wet, it may cause the ignitor to spark for a short period of time.

I have read all 51 comments and my sparking problem is a bit different on my Wolff 6 burner unit. In my case, the sparking on the burner I am using will light just fine, but it will not stop clicking until I turn on all of the other burners. All must be on for the sparking to stop and it doesn't matter which burner I am using. Any ideas?

Is this something new or has it been this way for a while?

Reversed polarity will cause issues similar to yours.

I had a clicking problem on my R366 (version with the "semi-open" burners that is no longer sold) which baffled me for some time. As it turned out, one of the burner caps was malfunctioning after 15 years of use......how does a piece of cast iron malfunction you ask???? :)

If you go to this link, you can see the part in question.

https://certifiedapplianceparts.com/815517-815517

On my "malfunctioning" part, the small channel you see at 3 o'clock in the picture via the link had ever so slightly expanded, presumably through 15 years of heating and cooling, expanding and contracting. It was clear to the naked eye once I held the new part up to the "malfunctioning" one that the channel was larger on my "malfunctioning" part.. I surmised that an excess amount of gas was passing into that channel causing the clicking.

Not sure that's the range you have, but if so, it may be worth looking closely to see if the channel has expanded on one or more of your burner caps.

Be prepared for sticker shock for a replacement - mine was $63+shipping.

Hope this helps.

Hi all. I have a slightly different issue. 5 year old 30” all gas Wolf. Tonight while cooking on the left front burner, the right front burner started clicking. It stopped when I turned it on. I shifted my cooking to that burner, in case some moisture had gotten on it. The burner worked fine, with no clicking when lit. Turned off, and it starts clicking again. We turned off the circuit breaker for an hour, and as soon as we turned it back on, it started again.

We are seeing the same issue. The clicking doesn’t stop in off position for one of them. Any clue? Thanks in advance

I have the answer to fix clicking noise after the burner is lit. Spark module, I have a wolf range ten years old model GR366. I cleaned burners, replaced igniters with no resolution to clicking noise. I replaced four spark modules, one for each burner that clicks. Spark module(gas igniter) blue electronic box w three leads. You have to take off the blue drip pan then under that remove silver drip pans. You can email if u get stuck scanlon6997@comcast.net Starting to love my $6500 stove just like new😍

Mines done it for 18 years. Just tap the burner knob, push it in a little and it will stop.

I can help fix ignition issues. 3609037198 John

Hello, I greatly appreciate all the posts above and have read and believe tried every one of them in an attempt to resolve my issue.. My situation is the same as many of you. My 6 year old Wolf LP gas stove starting having one burner constantly click after being turned off. This started shortly after a spill over occurring with the SO. She cleaned the burner and I cooked on it once or twice after wards and then it started. I would cook, then turn it off and it would constantly click, or until the burner switch was turned on again. Right now the only way to stop the clicking is to turn off the GFI or the breaker. I have checked the LP tank and its about half full. I have swapped out the ignitors from one burner to another, and the burners and covers. All 6 burners are working on regular use and on simmer including the one burner that is constantly clicking. After pulling all the 4 burners up where the faulty burner is, removing the drip pan, I switched out the blue electrical boxes under the pan between the faulty burner and another burner. Putting it all back together, the issue is still the same and burner clicks even though the knob is clearly in the off setting. I also checked the simple things like knobs and am handy on most things but this has got me stumped. Any solutions that worked for all of you besides calling in a repairmen are greatly appreciated in advance.

Hi ddgrows, I have exactly the same issue. Were you able to resolve it and if so, how? Thank you!

I have had my great Wolf range for about 15 years and have had this problem a couple of times. Most of discussions suggest cleaning around the igniter and making sure it is dry. What I found that does the trick, is after thoroughly cleaning the igniter and surrounding areas with fine sandpaper and alcohol, I brush on silicon conformal coating (available at Amazon and electronics supply vendors) around the base of the igniter. Once it dries, it insulates the igniter from the burner structure. No more clicking :-)

I gave up on my clicking Wolf and used a manual one

I think I figured it out. As most have mentioned cleaning is important.. what they have not said it to clean out the nozzels on the center cap with a round toothpick, all the way around.Also clean out the slot and the small gas holes in the main burner plate, you can stick the toothpick right through the main burner in the radius under the slot.

I believe what I just witnessed is under low or medium settings the center small burner burns correct all the way around with a nice blue flame.But on high for some reason the center was not burning clean causing the electrod to start snapping due to no flame around it. when the burner is burning correctly it will have a nice blue flame all around both the small and large burner and will also have a nice flame coming out of the slot in the main burner.

i have a WOLF Residential Gourmet R364C AS36Ki-7. Seems that both the range and the oven ignitors stopped working at the same time. Doesn't make much sense to me ! ! ! Any ideas of the cause?

Also, it's easy to light the range burners with a match, but is there a way to manually light the stove. Really don't use the broiler much

I have a wolf dual fuel 4 burner + griddle that continued to click after lighting on the front left high-heat burner. After reading through the threads and watching a few videos, just pulled out the burner head to get to the bottom. Couldn't get the screw off that was holding in the ignitor but was able to clean around it with a toothbrush and electrical cleaner. Appeared to be grease and what not from past spills and cleanings. After drying and reassembling, the clicking stopped. Worked like new. Hope it holds out!