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Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

Posted by tinyone22 (My Page) on
Wed, Jul 30, 14 at 14:15

We have a cabinet cutout for a refrigerator that is 24" deep, 36" wide, and 72" tall. The fridge needs to be installed next to a wall oven on the right and a wall on the left (photo attached). I know we need a counter depth stainless steel fridge. Are we limited solely to left-hinged with a bottom freezer style? We don't want the door to hit the oven when it opens so we are worried about french door style but are open to it if it is an option of course!

We can't seem to find a single one that is to these measurements except for those at $6-10K. We can do up to 5K but would prefer under 4K. Liebherr is too tall at 79". I found a Viking that is the right size but only seems to have french door! Any suggestions?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

This one has close specs.. Bosch - B22CT80SNS. Will it stick out from the cutout too much? How do we know if the French doors will interfere with the oven? Specs below

Approximate Dimensions:
• Height: 71-7/8"
• Width: 35-5/8"
• Depth: 27-5/8"
• Cutout
o Height: 72"
o Width: 36"
o Depth: 24"


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

How do we know if the French doors will interfere with the oven

What do you mean by "interfere"? We had a French door fridge next to our ovens - no big deal. Just close the refrigerator door when you want to open the oven. How often are they open at the same time anyway?


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

It will stick out. The cabinet is 1-5/8" too shallow for the box. The specs add that 1" is needed behind the fridge for ventilation as well. The cutout measurement for the fridge is 25-5/8". If the sides are a different color than the front that may be visible as well.

Usually, the installation specifications for a refrigerator, or any appliances, are included in the cabinet plans so things fit.
This is being done backwards which is why there is difficulty.

I'm linking the download you need below. The essential information is in the diagrams -- not the list. The diagram shows the door swing.

Every appliance has one of these spec sheets.

I cannot copy from the pdf but it says that 2-1/2" minimum on either side of the fridge is needed for clearance for the door to open. The photo is too small to see but the left door will likely hit the wall as it requires 10+" clearance for the swing.

Unfortunately, it also recommends that you do not install the refrigerator next to a heat source such as an oven or a range.

Here is a link that might be useful: Box B22CT80SNS download

This post was edited by rococogurl on Wed, Jul 30, 14 at 17:26


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

The only free standing counter depth 24" refrigerator that I know of is Liebherr and that's got to be bolted at top and bottom.

One thought would be to look at 33 inch refrigerators if your worried about door swing, but still not aware of any at 24" depth back to front casing.

Bosch - B22CT80SNS

Spec sheet pdf shows 30" from back to door handles (most of us are ok with doors sticking out); 273/4" back to doors -(3 3/4" projection past 24") and 245/8" back to front casing. Plus you need to allow for rear and side air space per manufacturer.

Suggest you look at Spec Sheets or Installation sheets to help guide selection.

If your refrigerator panel isn't installed yet, depending on if you have overhead cabinet, could your GC pull both sides front a little to cover the refrigerator sides?

Here is a link that might be useful: Bosch


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

This is very helpful info thanks. We bought the house and the cutout was already there but no fridge - we have to buy one that fits in the cutout. The specs for this Viking fridge look like the fridge may fit in the cutout but if the cutout does not account for additional space next to wall for door swing or top, behind and sides for ventilation then I don't think it will work. I'm not sure how we fix (first time homeowner...can you tell)??

Link: http://content.abt.com/documents/45038/VCFF236SS_installation.pdf


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

This reminds me of how frustrating it was for me when I was in a similar situation last year.

From enlarging your photo, it looks like you have a wall to the left of the 24" fridge enclosure. It looks maybe 5 inches in width, then a door to its left?

My recollection is there is no true 24" CD freestanding fridge at 72" (I think Liebherr is 80").

I'd start by looking at KitchenAid,a Whirlpool product. It's in the price range you mention and has been around a long time. I linked below direct to the page for a) freestanding b) 35" or greater width c) 26" or above depth and d) counter depth. Sites not working great, but twice 3 popped up. You need to look at the specs of depth (back to door) and get it as close to 26" as you can (excluding handle). Otherwise you'll have trouble with the double ovens.

If you give up french door and reduce width down to 33" or 35", I seem to remember a couple of nice Samsung models that might may be left swing (as well as some french door models). Samsung has great interior lighting, and I think they had stainless protruding farther down the box than kitchen aid which visually looks nice.

Lastly, google Fisher Paykel or go visit a store. They are (were ) an Australian make-think the were sold last year-but they have unusual sizes as well as left swings.

A great online site for refrigerators selection where you can pick your dimensions, etc is here:
http://www.ajmadison.com/refrigeration/

Don't despair. There's a lot of refrigerators out there. Sometimes you just need to go and look like at Sears, as after market models show up in the appliance sections which can have just what you need.

good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: KA


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

The Viking fridge you linked requires 2-3/4" clearance on each side for the doors to open. The question is whether that exists -- especially on the left side. Even if the fridge protrudes substantially from the opening, the appearance from the info so far is the left door cannot open even to 90 degrees given the handle location. The critical question is how many inches are there between the left side of the fridge cut out and the wall?

Additionally, it would be necessary to find a fridge that can be installed adjacent to ovens.

Whomever built that kitchen without appliances should be provide a rebate of about $6-8 K.

Unless I'm not fully understanding the facts of the layout, the best fridge candidate is a right opening door and a semi-built in fridge. But in that case, clearance to the island needs to be calculated.

The easiest option is likely to be altering the cabinet above the fridge to allow for a taller unit with an open shelf above it. I did that in a reno with a Liebherr fridge and it worked well.

Liebherr gets mixed reviews but Liebherr's 2062 looks like a candidate. The door would be right opening -- i.e. towards the ovens not the wall -- and I believe it is a 0 clearance door. Though it's still not clear how much space there is between the interior of the cutout and the ovens.

I had a Liebherr 30" left-opening fridge next to a wall and it had a 0 clearance door -- no problem. There's a good shot of how it looked with the shelf over it on the link My Old New Kitchen

Additionally, there must be an electrical outlet in the fridge space and a water line for the ice maker. Those may need relocation/adjustment.

My experience from having shopped for a fridge to fit an older space is that an alteration will be needed in a cabinet and the easiest way will be up.

Perhaps you'll be lucky and find something that just fits. As someone said, there are a lot of refrigerators out there. But IME a 24" deep fridge cabinet space next to a wall with no clearance on one side and ovens on the other side is quite limiting.

Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2062

This post was edited by rococogurl on Thu, Jul 31, 14 at 9:52


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

Wow! I'm so glad I came here for advice. This is all helpful information. Thanks very much to those who have replied. The people who built the kitchen obviously made an error that is going to cost us some $$. Funny thing is the agent told us we need a door that has a left hinge not a right hinge may be wrong too. If we have to we can alter the cabinet (i'm sure we can call a cabinet maker or ask our general contractor to help).

Will take a look at Fisher Paykel.

Re: Liebherr - do you by any chance mean the Liebherr Premium Plus Series CS2060? This one: http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/CS2060.html

2062 looks like a french door model.

I have to ask another question that will show just how new we are to this kind of thing. Where is the right place to go to help us solve this problem? To a full service kitchen store? Or do we just talk to our general contractor once we're working on projects in the house? Or something else?


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

Funny thing is the agent told us we need a door that has a left hinge not a right hinge may be wrong too.

I personally think the agent is correct, as long as you can open the door of a left-hinge fridge (is there enough "filler" between the cabinet and the wall). I'd hate to have a refrigerator door that opens "away" from the rest of the kitchen, meaning you have to walk around to get into it.


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

Sorry, typo! I meant the 2060, a freestanding right-door opening fridge, which is what I actually linked. I will link it again here.

@tinyone. Can you provide measurements around the cut out and the distance in inches from the interior of the cutout to the wall?

Without that information it's hard to truly help.

@sjhockey - I agree that a right opening door is not ideal. But it offers the best chance of opening enough so the fridge actually can be used. Unless there is enough clearance it can't open left because even a 0-clearance hinge fridge has a handle which will hit the wall and may not fully open.

But we can only make "if this" suggestions without the facts/ measurements.

Given the facts the OP has posted so far, I don't believe the agent is right. I think I am right. But that could change depending on how far it is from the fridge cutout to the wall on the left and how much space there is between the ovens and the cut out on the right. And if there's enough space for the door to swing open in the aisle between the fridge wall and the island.

@tiny -- if you are doing other work in the house, a competent GC could make this all go away very easily. Depending -- again -- on the current location of the electrical outlet in the fridge cut out and the location of the water line it might need an electrician and a plumber in addition to a carpenter who is good enough to do fine finish work and alter an existing cabinet well enough to reuse pieces as needed.

If a GC has a good crew, that's the way to go. The percentage paid to him will be worth it as he will be responsible.

But I wouldn't let anyone touch anything until you ID a fridge that can function in the space somehow and after you've identified what will need to be altered more or less. Then I'd meet with the GC with the spec sheets in front of you to discuss his suggestions on how to go forward and what it will cost. Only after that would I make a purchase.

OTOH, if the cabinet store that furnished the cabinets is known, might be worth a call to them. But then no one person is responsible.

I also would be careful about where I purchase the fridge. It weighs 400 pounds. It needs to go from the truck to the door of the house closest to the kitchen. When my fridge was delivered it was to the bottom of my driveway -- the contractor had to bring it up. Don't assume anything. Ask a ton of questions.

I'd want people there with the right equipment and in the right numbers to bring it into without ruining the floors, nicking the door, denting it or at worst -- dropping it. I'd find out in advance if the fridge can be tilted horizontally (some cannot).

Unfortunately, this is not a Mom's fridge from Sears situation.

Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2060


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

Rococogurl (and OP), I think I see something different in the tiny picture than Rococogurl is seeing. To the left of the fridge (the enclosure), I see a small amount of filler and then a vew inches of wall protruding, but definitely not far enough to be in contact with the refrigerator door handles. Is there a full wall there (as rococogurl thinks) or a very short wall (as I think)?


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

This sounds complicated to figure out but not impossible if we coordinate it with the right team of people and do things in the correct order (i.e. talk to GC before buying fridge). Do our options improve if we consider built in options? I know those are a great deal more expensive but I'm wondering if that would that help to solve our problem?

Rococogurl - Thank you. I will definitely come back and post as soon as I get those measurements for the cabinet around the fridge. We are doing other work in the house but will need to hire a GC (we have an electrician + plumber so it is ok if we have to move electrical and water line).

sjhockeyfan - I've tried to post another photo here (I have resized it but for some reason it won't post the larger photo here). To the left of the fridge is a full height wall (not a short wall) that I believe is the same depth as the cabinet cutout (24"). To the left of the wall is a hallway (no way we could make the hallway narrower as it is narrow already). There is also no additional clearance between the fridge cutout and the oven on the right.


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

To the left of the fridge is a full height wall (not a short wall) that I believe is the same depth as the cabinet cutout (24").

If that wall to the left of the fridge surround is 24" front to back, then it serves as "filler" too, and you should have no problem opening a left-hinged refrigerator if the hinges and door are clear of the front of the "filler". If you want the hinges and door to be set back (fully enclosed), then you would need hinges with zero clearance. My Thermador built-in has that (the wall configuration is similar to your, but actually sticks out about 8", and I can still open the door all the way and get the drawers out for cleaning), I don't know about regular fridges (when I said "short", I meant front to back, not top to bottom).

Anyway, it actually looks worse on the right side because of the ovens - wouldn't a right-hinged door hit the oven handles?


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

This looks very different to me, which is why I kept asking the questions.

Congrats! Such a better situation and nowhere near as difficult as I had thought from the description. What threw me was the "wall," which where I live is something that can happen.

Seeing this photo a left opening door should work -- I agree totally sj.

With a 24" deep cut out a built in fridge would be better than freestanding made to look b-i IMO. It's also the most expensive option but there's something to be said for doing it right. I'd be looking at Miele, SZ, Thermador and Liebherr (provided you've read the threads -- I had an excellent Liebherr but others have had difficulties).

In any event, I'd check, check and double check (post and we'll triple check) the fine print on the spec sheet diagram. Have the GC measure the opening very carefully and go over everything with him before ordering.

I have an older b-i Viking (I would not recommend Viking). The door fits completely flush with the adjacent cabinets, as you can see. Only the handles are proud of that. This is how a fully integrated b-i fridge looks.

Fully integrated should eliminate any conflict with the ovens.


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

I'm going to post two pics in two separate posts - this one is my current Thermador built-in. As you can see, I have about 3" of "filler", and a wall next to that. It opens all the way. The reason I did the filler was not for filler/door opening, it was because I wanted the look of the "frame" around the fridge.


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

And here's the fridge in my previous home. This also opened far enough to remove the drawers.


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RE: Counter depth fridge size and cutout help!

very helpful! Thanks again to all who helped. Will also look into built in. May be best option and worth the investment.


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