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| We have just installed a double F&P dishdrawer. The top unit works beautifully, however the bottom drawer won't drain. When we cleaned-out and removed the bottom drawer we found water standing in the metal base. Any suggestions? There are no flashing lights to indicate a code error. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| What model unit? There is a fault code U3 for failure to drain (based on the next fill being too short, the pump reaching prime too soon due to the residual water) but it's not displayed to the user, only seen when retrieving recorded fault codes via diagnostic mode. Are you sure it really doesn't drain, or is water maybe backflowing in later through the drain hose from the sink or other drawer? The two drain hoses MUST be routed properly with a high loop under the sink. Does the pump run during drain periods but there is no flow out the drain hose? If so, then something is blocking the flow. It's normal for a small puddle to remain in the kidney-shaped drain filter toward the front. |
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| The model number is DD603I Is there a way we can retrieve the codes? There is a lot of water in the lower drawer only after the bottom drawer runs. Everything is fine when the top drawer runs. The drawer fills with about 3 inches of water and won't drain. The drain hose feels warm to the touch and we can hear the pump running but it doesn't drain the tub. The tube is looped (upside down U) high under the sink. The remaining water is under the drawer - when we take the drawer out of the unit ( water spills out onto the floor) we see it on the bottom of surround. Thanks for helping |
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| If you just installed it, it should be under warranty. Why don't you call for a service call. |
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| Interesting. Where'd you get a DD603 "just installed?" 603 is at least two series old. There has already been a 605 series (no 604, it was skipped), and the current models are DD24 (now using a different model syntax). Not that there's anything wrong with a 603, there haven't been a lot of changes from one series to the next since 603. Well, except the new DD24 Tall model. Anyway, there's an air vent a few inches up on the rear wall of the tub behind the plate rack, which will leak water out if it gets up that high. You need to disconnect the power cord, pull the lower drawer and thoroughly dry the overflow (soak it up with towels, then use a hair dryer to insure everything is dry). There's a flood sensor on a circuit board down there that triggers both drawers into drain mode if it gets wet. Hmmmm. On the previous reply regarding the U3 fault code, I'd been referencing a 605 service manual. The U3 code was used on 601 & 602, not used on 603, and reinstated on 605. So for DD603, there's no code for failure to drain. If it senses pump prime too soon (in less than 20 seconds of filling, which indicates the previous drain failed), the unit may try draining and filling up to 5 consecutive times (a normal drain period is 3 minutes) before continuing on with the cycle, but no fault code is recorded. Try disconnecting the problem drawer's drain hose from the plumbing and run it into a bucket to see if anything is coming out. Assuming there's no water in the drawer, pour in just a quart or so, then start a cycle (every cycle begins with a 1-minute drain period), check if there's drain flow. (Or use the drain pump diagnostic test outlined below.) If the motor runs and no flow, then something is blocking the hose or pump outlet. Your drain hoses are connected to the plumbing using the Y-adapter included with the unit, correct? I could send a service manual to you, but there's no e-mail contact on your GardenWeb profile. As for Diagnostic Mode .... 1. With the drawer off (it can be open), press and hold Keylock, then press Start/Pause at the same time for 5 seconds. All LEDs on the control badge should turn on except Keylock. There are four diagnostic levels. After entering Diagnostic, pressing Power cycles through the levels, then Off. Press Start/Pause to activate the selected level. Once a level is activated, Power then turns off and exits Diagnostics. 2. The first level is fault code display. Press Start/Pause once. There should be a beep. The last two fault codes recorded are displayed on the cycle selection lights inside the drawer. If none of the lights turn on, then there are no recorded fault codes. A second beep in a few moments indicates end of the display sequence. Press Start/Pause again to repeat if necessary. If you want to reset the recorded fault codes, press and hold Keylock to clear the first code (the second code moves to first position). Press and hold Keylock again to clear the second fault code. 3. Second diagnostic level is Hardware Output, which allows manual testing of drawer components. After entering Diagnostics, Press Power once. All the cycle lights should be on. Start/Pause then selects which component is tested, per the cycle lights. Press Keylock to turn on/activate the selected test (green light on Start/Pause button). Press Keylock again to turn it off. Multiple components can be turned on simultaneously, such as running fill through either the prewash or main wash detergent cup, but the controller board may not allow some items to turn on at the same time during diagnostics. 4. Third level is Fast Test Cycle (all cycle lights on except Fast). Close the drawer, press Start/Pause, and a 5-minute test cycle runs -- lid closes, fill, wash, heating element, drain, off. 5. Fourth level is Continuous Cycle (Heavy + Normal + Rinse cycle lights). Close the drawer & press Start/Pause. Whatever was the last cycle selected in normal operating mode will run repeatedly until Power is turned off. To change or select the cycle for continuous test, exit diagnostics, select a cycle, turn off the power, restart diagnostics. * Drawer may have to be closed to run pump motor tests. My DD603 will run them with the drawer open. It's OK to run a drain test with water in the tub and open, no water will spray. But of course a wash/recirculate test will spray water out unless the drawer is closed and the lid sealed. Remember, you have to do everything manually in Hardware Output diagnostic, the lid won't close automatically before starting the motor. Oh, almost forgot ... you may want to pull the pump rotor to check if there's anything obviously wrong with it, such a broken or loose drain impeller or something clogging the outlet. |
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| HELP!!! We just installed a single dishwasher drawer by Fisher Paykel DD24S on our boat. It performed fine for the first two times. The third time, we have an error message; E4 and the drawer is locked and holding our dishes hostage. After the E4 error it came up with 02.We called customer care and were told to contact a service co. Folks we are away from civilization often and this will not work. According to the book it is a heating element. Can anyone help? |
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| Try shutting off the power to it and then turning it back on at the breaker if necessary or the plug, if you can get to it. That should reset it so that you can at least retrieve your dishes. |
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| Thanks for your suggestion. We did turn the power off and back on but that did not solve the problem. Our coffee mugs are still being held hostage and the drawer will not open. The boat is now in a slip in a marina and a repair person is scheduled for tomorrow. I will post the results. |
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| The drawer can be forcibly pulled open with the lid closed if necessary but DO NOT force it closed or the lid seal will be damaged. After fully removing the drawer the lid motors can be manually wound up to raise the lid. Fault E4 indicates a failed heating element -- the water temperature was detected as not increasing during the cycle. 02 is a subcode on the main fault. |
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| Hi I have a model DD60DCW6 product 80588 -A double F&P dish draw. muy problem is the top draw doesn't fully drain and after a short runing time brings up a "tap with a cross through it" on the lcd display and then two short repeating beeps for a alarm. when it first starts up it sounds like the water is draining away for a couple of seconds as you can hear the pump and the water flowing down the drain but only for a sec or two then it goes on to another stage before faulting, any suggestions as I am unable to find any manual or fauly codes test runing modes etc... cheers Damon |
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| Sorry to say but welcome to the world of Fisher Paykel dishSLOSHERS. I finally got rid of mine 3 months ago.. good riddance. If you can, do yourself a favor and return it. Google it and you will see numerous help articles on how to fix the things (because they are all broken and everyone is asking for help). The only thing that helped mine was to increase the height of the drain hose. I moved mine to the absolute maximum and it really helped with the standing water issue. That being said, it was still a 1 in 3 shot if it would have water standing after a load of sloshing water around. If you have hard water, I recommend regular empty vinegar loads, which also helped with the drainage issue. The thing that really killed it for me was the lack of cleaning ability; it wouldn't fully wash the dishes and then the drying cycle would bake on the debris, requiring a handwash. My problem is that despite the standing water issue, they never cleaned particularly well. See if you can return the piece of junk... I switched to Miele and my life is so much improved! |
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| KiwiNomad -- All cycle selections begin with a brief drain period, that's normal. The next function is filling for the first spray period of the selected cycle. The icon you're seeing is a fill / water supply fault. Are you sure draining is the problem? You're seeing water remaining in the drawer immediately after a given cycle selection is fully completed and the unit has shut off? How much water? It's normal for a small puddle to remain in the kidney-shaped drain filter, but no more than that. More than that, especially if it collects a while after a cycle ends, typically indicates a backflow situation due to the drain hoses not routed with a high-enough loop or some other drain-side installation problem. My DD603 will be 10 years in August. No repairs and it cleans quite nicely. As you may know, drying is "passive" via an exhaust fan with no heat other than what the dishware "absorbs" from the final rinse water, which may be heated as high as 163°F depending on the selected cycle. -- I can't respond to your contact message. Your GW profile doesn't allow contact via the site message system, and you didn't provide an e-mail addy in the message you sent to me. |
This post was edited by dadoes on Sun, May 19, 13 at 9:19
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| Dadoes, I just had to say "thanks!" Your posts were instrumental in my decision to buy my DD603 several years ago and I am so grateful! I love them! I am remodeling my kitchen and came on the appliances board to look up something else and was tickled pink to see your name. I'm curious, what do you think of the new DD models with the 2 drawer sizes? I am considering upgrading when I do my kitchen remodel. PS - to OP, sorry to hijack your post! |
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